texas275

I found this diagram when I was researching mine, plus an answer or two from the guys here. It's pretty straight forward. The resistor for the coil is available in any auto parts store. The ones for the guages are 3.00 on ebay. They are called a "runtz".

My truck had no usable wiring at all. Since I was redoing all of the electrical, I decided to go with a 12v system. Super easy to convert if you are replacing everything. I did the GM alt, with a resistor at the coil. Havent hooked up any of the original guages yet, but a runtz for the fuel guage is 3 bucks on ebay. Now I can install all modern electronics with no issues. I have istalled an elecrtic fuel pump and fan. The purests say stay with the 6v, I'm a fan of the 12v. I think it just boils down to a personal choice, and what you are comfortable with. Either way you wont be wrong.

I did a search for a source on grill bars and found a thread where someone was looking and having some fabbed. Did that ever happen? Are there any aftermarket out there? I have the set that came off of mine, but they are too beat up to fix. Tom

Deal!!! Whats your brand?

I cant tell from the other picture where the little spring goes, Is it a big deal to get one? Let me know how much u want for it and shipping.

I bought one of these took it apart and put it on the top of my old one. I added a ground wire. Works fine fo 35.00. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/mode=prod/prd276.htm

Does anyone else have a choke bracket they can part with? I havent heard from Reg, and I'm still needing the part. Thanks, Tom

Congrats, and looking good. I got to drive mine up and down the driveway for the first time last weekend. It's a great feeling, thats for sure. Once you get the carb tuned it's even better!!!!

I got it running smooth now. I disconnected the vacuum line from the advance and it made no difference. I checked the advance with a vacuum pump, and it moved as it should. I had the vacuum advance hooked up to the port coming off of the back of the manifold, not the carb. So I changed it over to the one coming off of the carb, and capped off the one on the manifold, re-set my points, re-set the timing and started it again. It idles great, and the acceleration is smooth as well. So it could have been not enough vacuum from the manifold, or my points/timing being off, but I am leaning toward the vacuum. Either way I’m good to go now.

I'll check that today and see what happens.

Found the problem!!! It was the two ports associated with the mixture screw. Before I took it apart agian I tried adjusting the mixture screw again. I took the screw all the way out and it did not change the way it ran. That was a clue! So i pulled it down again. When I rebuilt it the first time there was a bad spot where the two carb pieces bolt together. I had to use some sealer to make up for the defect in the mounting surfaces. Some of the sealant had gotten over the holes and fallen into the ports thus stopping them up. Thats why the mixture screw had no effect on how it ran. Cleaned it out again, and now it idles. Runs a little rough at higher RPMs. I'm sure it dont have it adjusted quite right. Any Ideas on rough running at higher RPM?

I watched those videos today. I will pull it apart one more time and compair it to the video, just to make sure I did not miss something.

I did pull the plugs. I pulled it apart today and cleaned it again. Exactly the same symptoms. I may try to pick up another carb like JBNiel said. It won't hurt to try another and I would have a spare. I did drive up and down the drive way for the first time today. That was pretty cool.

No wipers hooked up yet, and all vac lines secure. I did the rebuild with a kit from NAPA. It was running better, but has gotten worse. I had the screw adjusted out but, it ran better as I turned it in. Now it's bottomed out. I guess I'll pull it off and take it apart again.

I have tried searching but to no avail. I rebuilt the Carter carb on my 53 B4B with the 218 out of a 51 Plymouth. It sounds and acts like it is sucking too much air and I cannot figure it out. The mixture screw is all the way in, it will only run smooth with the choke at 1/2 to 3/4 closed. If I open the choke all the way it idles real rough for a few seconds until it dies. If I give it gas while idling with open choke it dies. I have sprayed the outside of the carb and manifold with starting fluid and it does not change the way it runs at all. Timing is set at tdc, it does have some ticking in the valves, but but not bad. Any ideas? Tom