Powerhouse

Howdy all. My 39 Ply in need of alignment. The inside tread of the front tires have worn pretty badly. I replaced king pins recently and the tie rods are good. I have seen a string tied between two jack stands used to get toe readings but was wondering if I should take it somewhere. I asked my local reliable guy and he said he'd need specs in order to give it a try. He said it would cost around $70. Any ideas on how much it should cost and if it's worth having someone else do it?

OK. Thanks guys! Model 219...I wonder what the difference is? Or the builder? My friend was able to get me some more shots. The date stamp down by the filler tube is 46. And the head number is the same as a 218 I have but ends in 7 instead of 8. so I guess it's a 218. he wil be testing it through the plug at back of head fro stroke later. Thanks.

Howdy all, Just wondering if anyone new what flat 6 chrysler product had a serial number starting with N and ending in what looks like CAL? See the photo attached. I didn't see anything on the link here: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php Thanks.

I ordered a new one from VPW. SAME THING, NO PIN! ARGH. I called and they said to send it back there should be a pin. They are sending me a new one with the pin. IF you need to order one of the oil pumps from ANY SUPPLIER, ask them to hand pick it to make sure the pin is present. Someone must have sold a bad batch or something.

Thanks for the info guys. I re-routed the oil line from the #4 oil gallery port just to keep it per the book. Still the same reading, as expected.

Nice find with the "thexton" info! I have seen the longer valves but am guessing they are for different size engine. Mine are the short ones. I am wondering if where my oil gauge pick up line is connected is to far ahead of the valve to get corect pressure reading. Or if that even matters.

Thanks. yes. I replaced the ring gear and had it surfaced too just to make sure it was good.

wow.... no takers? I guess I stumped the Mopar Magicians. hahaha

Thanks much. I actually took the time to balance them as well. I think the book calls for something like within 7 grams of each other..but I was able to get them to be all pretty much the same.

Howdy all.... I have been wondering about the difference between the 3 valves I have. I have been running the newer vpw one. Any pointers are greatly appreciated. Also...my oil pressure gauge is plumbed through the 2 port from front on the oil galley. I get very high readings, about 3/4 over on the gauge, at speed and cold idle. But around 30 at hot idle. I know the springs came in hard(green), regular(unpainted) and soft(red). This video is VERY good material: These are the different valves I have.

Well, usually yes, but there was no hole anyway in the shaft. I'd rather not mess with it trying to drill it or take off the gear and see if there was a hole and just return it. It wasn't the high volume one anyway I was looking for. As for the o ring, It seems to crush when screws are tightened and form a good flush seal.

they are the same dimensions. The angle of the photo may have made them seem different. Seller emailed me back: Ya that is supposed to have a pin in it to hold the gear...send it back and I will refund your purchase+ shipping and the return shipping...sorry I did not see that... Very good customer service. I have purchased from him before with no problems.

the hole for the retaining pin is only on one side of the gear...and missing the pin. the slots are different shape but may be the same size.

that could be what is implied by the seller. I have seen actual high volume pumps for the L6. They look similar but have about a half inch taller assembly. probably to make room for the different gear setup. The one I got is the same as stock....just missing the retaining pin on the cam gear!

I couldn't find much to answer my particular questions on previous posts. Just as to what it 's for and such. The seller goes by the handle "MOPARFORUM". I have just emailed them with questions. VPW has one listed as: NEW Oil Pump (all except M-37/43) Higher • volume Part #CC601269H $139 thanks.

howdy all, I am replacing the old oil pump and decided to get a high volume pump since the price was just about the same as stock. The pump i was sold is exactly the same internally and externally as far as I can see. Any idea on what makes a high volume compared to a stocker? ALSO the new pump doesn't have a pin in the retaining hole for the cam gear? It's just on there...is that OK? I bought mine on ebay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-DODGE-CHRYSLER-Oil-Pump-HIGH-volume-1935-59-6-cyl-34-56-Trucks-New-/400497498947?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1947%7CMake%3APlymouth&hash=item5d3f82db43&vxp=mtr

Howdy all. Been busy with other things, as if there were other things hahaha. But the stupid old clack noise is still there. My mpg have gone up though...quite a bit too...from around 13mpg to 25ish. I couldn't believe it myself..but I checked a second time and it's still around 25. I might have a had a vacuum leak at the carb too that I fixed.....but probably not a huge one. I don't do freeway anymore since My tires need replacing and give a heck of a wobble up front over 50 from being worn down. Still have to replace on more king pin and then adjust everything. Anyway, The noise seems to come from the rear of the block...maybe crank is messed up? After all the crap I replaced I just can't believe the noise hasn't changed one bit. I just don't know. I am about calling it quits with this mill. Just can't afford any more work and no time anyway to mess with things. I'll just have to run her as is untill it gives up the ghost. Really disappointed after all the money, blood, sweat and tears. Maybe a 230 will find it's way into my garage someday along with some cash to build it. I am wondering if something in the clutch area is causing the clack...but it sounds like engine noise the more I poke around. I ordered a new high volume oil pump from MOPARFORUM on ebay. Mine is a bit worse for wear. I took it out to check some things and noticed it may need to be rebuilt....so I just bought the high volume version. Maybe some more oil is needed and will hep stop the clacking. And then I woke up.

got it. Thanks.

Thanks. It's pretty much exactly the same set up. I will be making a new boot and hopefully that will keep it more staionary. The spring holds it from moving toward the back and the rod/adjusting nut keeps it from moving forward...so I guess the boot will hold it from moving up and down a bit.

Hello all, I think I may have found the cause of another noise that happens while driving my 39 ply. I still get a rattle or clacking sound at higher rev points before shifting gear. Might be a loose fork? Should the clutch fork boot keep the fork from moving up and down? My clutch fork boot was just not holding anymore. The metal tabs were not holding it in and it was just sort of hanging there. The fork would easily just rattle around on the pivot if I tried moving it by hand. I am guessing the boot kept it from doing that. Are they even necessary? I have already taken apart and replaced most of the worn parts in the clutch linkage. I adjusted it to within 1 inch of free play and lever just shy of the floorboard as per the book.

I found on a hudson website in the engine rebuild instructions that the clearance should be .003. Also found that rod balance for them was within 7 grams or .25 oz. link is here: http://home.comcast.net/~sarahdyoung/hudsonjetengine.html

heres a link to the pics: http://s8.beta.photobucket.com/user/m_maringola/library/heaters

I'll be putting these up on the epay soon to help pay some bills. I measured the deluxe airflow labeled "dodge heater" mounting/pipes. The mounting tubes are about 1" wide about 4.75 apart and encase the water lines. So only 2 holes for that model which are straight across from each other. That one has a bit of a leaky core. Needs soldering. The other one has 4 mounting holes. 4.5 horizontally and 3.25 vertically spaced. so it's like a 4.5x3.25 rectangular mounting pattern. One of the threaded mounting rods isn't there...I just used 3 so I didn't have to drill so many holes. The 2 water lines are 8 5/8 center to center diagonally and 7 inches horizontally apart.

Thanks all. I will let ya know how it worked out.

Thanks all for the great info. I didn't realize we could/should go over .060 bore. I ordered the rods anyway so we will see what they are when I get them. The vendor was VERY nice and said I can return them if they don't work out. If they are 230s I may keep them for a future 230 build with that 54 Dodge truck 218 block I have. I already have a nice milled head for it, I accidentally milled a later style head for the early block. It didn't cost me to mill it since I did it at work thanks to my boss. Seems like these things are getting harder to find. I guess they aren't anything the masses are looking for though.