dan01wilson

Where can I find the pattern for carburetor or fuel pump heat shield for my 1951 Dodge B3B-108 truck? Thanks

As you were. Driver side is the same. Obviously was how they fabricated them.

Passenger side bracket had been broken and welded. Truck has been in my family since new and never wrecked, so puzzling in that regard. Glad they arc welded it, since they brazed a lot of stuff back then, as I recall...

Correction. Outboard lip is currently UNDER the top flange of the frame rail.

I need help or advice on the best way to install the rubber biscuits in my motor mounts. I got my truck back from the shop with no rubber pads in the rear motor mounts whatsoever. I got the pads from Roberts Motor Parts and fabricated the spacers from some 5/8" stainless tubing. Can somebody help me with some advice or a YouTube video of how to approach this? Motor mounts and rubber pads are shown at the top of the attachment. Thanks in advance. I specifically need to know if the outboard lip of bracket 9-70-4 goes on top of the upper flange of the frame rail or under it. Currently the lip is on top of the frame rail and doesn't look right. This site won't let me post a picture because of the 3 MB restriction. I will try to post a picture separately.

OK. Thanks a lot for your responses.

So I don't have to take the front motor mount loose? It will flex enough? Thanks for the response

I need help or advice on the best way to install the rubber biscuits in my motor mounts. I got my truck back from the shop with no rubber pads in the rear motor mounts whatsoever. I got the pads from Roberts Motor Parts and fabricated the spacers from some 5/8" stainless tubing. Can somebody help me with some advice or a YouTube video of how to approach this? Thanks in advance.

My 1951 Dodge B3B starts quickly when cold; not so well when hot. I recently installed a new spring in my manifold stove. Wonder if I need to rewind the spring?

Driver door glass will only roll down if I go back and forth several times. Rolls up ok. Regulator looks ok with flashlight.

Now I'm thinking about rebuilding the motor IN THE TRUCK like we used to rebuild tractor motors. I really wanted the motor blueprinted, though, with bores properly done, centerlines intersecting, block vatted, etc, etc.

Not sure my sheet metal is an issue. The slip or clearance fit between the engine and the actual motor mounts is an issue. Once clear of the actual motor mounts, maybe I can cock the passenger side forward and up and then come up and clear the steering column with the driver side of the bellhousing unit. What do you think?

I need the most basic help there is. I am pulling the engine out of my (late) grandfather's 1951 B3B-108 Dodge Pickup. It has close to 100,000 miles with only one head gasket replacement that I remember. It's blowing oil out the road draft tube so I'm sure there is ring blow-by. I have a good machine shop lined up, but here's the problem: I'm struggling with pulling the engine. I have a cherry picker and a load leveler, but I have not got to that step yet. Being a 71 year old ex hot rodder, I've pulled v8 ford and chevy engines years ago. They typically had motor mounts in the center of the block on both sides, and a transmission crossmember. As you know, this old Dodge is nothing like that. There is a straightforward looking front mount arrangement. The rear mount is what is throwing me. It looks like the rear mount is integral with the bellhousing and runs all the way from one frame rail to the other. Looks like the master cylinder and pedal shaft definitely have to come out. Not sure the crossmember will clear the steering shaft. Could somebody please coach me through this? I have the generator and starter removed and rebuilt; fluids drained; hood removed; radiator removed; driveshaft removed; getting ready to remove the transmission. Most of my confusion relates the rear engine mounts/crossmember. There is nothing on youtube, and the shop manual tells me to remove headlights and the whole front clip. It might be easier to call me on my cell and talk me through this. Thanks, Dan Wilson (205)907-2204

Drove my B3B approximately 25 miles today running errands and the brake issue is solved. I believe the root cause was brake pedal free play adjustment. Slightly puzzling since no adjustments had been made. On person who provided input on this thread said the cab can shift or settle enough to change these type adjustments, so maybe that's what happened. At any rate, truck is fixed and all ready for Christmas parades. I don't mind that I replaced all flex lines; after 35 years, it was time any way. Thanks again for your help.

Here is my bug spray bleeder. Only issue is sealing it at the Master Cylinder, since those are straight threads. I finally used a washer AND tape on the threads and got it sealed. The bleeding itself only took 20 minutes or so.

Received my new Raybestos flex lines today. Hope to be able to fix my truck this weekend. Checked my linkage and the free play seems to be ok. I have not been able to see or probe the return hole in the MC. Last time I went through these brakes was 2009, and I came up with a good one-man bleeding scheme. I used a bug sprayer with the required fittings, put Dot 3 in the bug sprayer, screwed into the MC filler hole threads, kept 6-8 psi or so pumped up and bled each wheel cylinder. Worked much better than my Mity-Mite vacuum setup. Since my MC is lower than my wheel cylinders, gravity bleeding is not an option. I will try to remember to make some pictures of my bug sprayer bleeder arrangement and post them. All the common sense and sanity checks I have gotten on this forum are invaluable. Thanks again

This is the type MC my truck has

Drove truck around the block this am. Pressure in system is decreased to where it drives ok. Jacked up front end and removed LF wheel/tire. Both front brakes are dragging a little. Does this point to the MC, or would one partially collapsed flex line affect the whole system rather than just the wheel or axle it serves? Thanks

How do I "check" the flex lines? Is it advisable to just replace them since the existing ones are 35 years old? Also, how do I check the bleed back hole in the MC? Take off the MC lid and probe with fine wire? Thanks for the responses.

flex lines are a real possibility. last replaced them approx. 1980

"Rubber lines collapsed on the inside" On the inside of the master cylinder?

After running errands today in my 1951 Dodge B3B Pickup, brakes were dragging/locked to the point we barely got home. I noticed the brake light was burning continuously, which means there is residual pressure in the system. All I did was disconnect one of the wires from the brake light sender to keep from running the battery down. Thinking back, it seems like the brake pedal has progressively engaged higher and higher. This problem is obviously related to the master cylinder. Is it a simple adjustment issue? Where should I start in the morning in diagnosing this issue? Thanks in advance for your expert advice.

I'm talking about the front park lights. There's nothing there except the fender, lens and lens ring. That's my grandson. He had just finished washing the truck and really thought he had done something. Thanks for the reply.