IronTrap

Sheets vary in price.. but I've seen around $40-$50 for a sheet depending on where you get it, how it's treated, etc. The way you're mentioning is the basic process, but you need to be sure you either bevel the joint to allow the weld to flow in or hammer the weld to flatten it some as you go. You don't want to grind 90% of your weld away or it may fail in the future and the seam could crack open. I'm planning to open the gap up enough or bevel the joint so I can drop the filler rod (or MIG wire depending how you do it) into the opening so the weld bead is pretty flush with the surface to reduce the amount of grinding needed. Chopping 3" out of the rear and I need to check and see what looks best for the front. I just made the first cut today actually!

Chris, In the end I decided to use 20 gauge to make it easier to roll crisp beads in the metal.. especially with the curves I designed into the top out bead. I reinforced the frame of the running board with the 1x1 box tubing pretty good.. so shouldn't be an issue if someone does stand on it a little... Thanks for watching everyone! My sight wasn't so good the other day when I went to run the beads for the other running board and I decided to trash that one, I'm hoping to try and get the other top built next week. In the meantime I decided to start on the chop and shave.. cut the drip rails and cleaning the top with our stripping disc kit for the angle grinder. got the top half of the cab stripped to how you see it in about 45 minutes.

Here is the video for the running board fabrication. Enjoy!

I've been quite busy on the truck lately. I have the passenger side running board 90% done and we should be launching the video on the process tomorrow. Here's a couple pics of it so far. I'll link to the article/video once it's live on our YouTube channel. Then I decided to tackle the front bumper, and I ended up going with a 60's Chevy Corvair van bumper, then chopping it up and changing the radius to match the Pilot House front end. I think it turned out pretty good! I just posted a tech article on the process here: http://blog.eastwood.com/50-dodge-project/custom-front-bumper/ I also had a friend do a quick photoshop of some possibly color schemes... I'm digging the one below.. figured I need to plan some of this out now since I'll be picking up the engine next week and will begin painting and detailing it to match the overal paint scheme. Thanks for anyone watching! -Matt/EW

How about a Brush Guard? Considering letting it go... My truck has the driver and passenger visors as well but the passenger bracket is broken (both pieces there), the OE heater at the passenger feet.. Also is this radio everyone is looking for? Mine has the one pictured above.. I may pass off some of this stuff since my truck is more of a chopped up custom and would suit resto-type trucks a bit better IMO.

I actually think the chrome ranger bumper would work if it was a tad wider, it looks pretty similar in shape to the chrome grill trim.. but with it not being wide enough, I think it ruins it a little. Truck still looks nice as hell! I have a pretty big yard about an hour from me with a huge classic car/truck section and I think I may go there with a sawzaw and a tape measure and cut one that looks cool off of a similar vintage truck for the front, the rear I'm not sure on yet.. I think I need to decide how I want to build the tailgate before I decide that.. but I appreciate the input guys! I am currently working on the DIY video showing the custom bumper build step by step. It's a pretty simple process when you break it down.. right now I'm about to start rolling the 3/8" beads in the top skin. That will be the difficult part to get those looooooong beads straight and even! Here is a couple more pics I took quickly of the build for the passenger running board. The lines on the template will be the beads. I think running the bead around the perimiter of the top will make the top of the running board look less like a giant diving board Stay tuned for the video, I should have that mostly wrapped up by the end of next week and we will have it edited and live within a week from there. For any tri-state locals be sure to come check the truck out in person and say hello at our huge Eastwood Summer Classic show and shine this Saturday July 14th! More info here: http://www.eastwood.com/summerclassic. I'll be the heavily tattooed guy in an Eastwood t-shirt picking out the "Eastwood picks" for the best cars that roll into the show!

Thanks Chris, I'll try and snap some more detailed pictures here shortly. I was out of the country shopping for a vintage german motorcycle project and picking up some parts for my vw projects..(I have wayyy too many projects!), so I haven't touched the truck in some time. I am planning to start on the framework of the other running board here shortly!

Unfortunately the front bumper was stolen from our property so I need to decide if I want to run one or not. I have considered going back to the old guy I got it from and seeing if he has a basic front bumper without overriders I can buy and use. Just need to get time to get over there and dig around again!

Thanks glad you guys can appreciate the work I'm putting into this even if it isn't for the purists out there! I've been busy and we are working on updating the blog and Youtube channel with what I've gotten done. Here is the first video for the suspension removal. The rest of the videos should be up shortly! We had a cruise-in at Eastwood headquarters last Friday and I busted my bum to get the framework for the new running boards built. Remember these won't be exact replicas.. but should help give you guys some ideas what you could do with basic materials. This is again a preview for you guys only.. won't be live on the site or Youtube for a little while.. First I started with 1/2" round bar stock as the radius best matched the radius of the edge of the OE running boards and bent 2 pieces to make the radius for the corners. I then welded the pieces all together to make the framework. My running boards are just a tad taller than the stock pieces.. but hard to tell what they should have been since the OE ones were tweaked up so badly Then I welded in 1"x1" box tubing to for frame work that will be under the top of the running boards. I want to be able to actually stand on these, so I made them flush with the top of the skeleton so the sheet metal can be supported by it. And a few pics from when we rolled it out for display at the cruise in. It's the first time I've been able to see it outside of the garage in a while. It's starting to look like a truck sorta again!

Ha always happy to exchange friendly banter, I know it is a bit sacrilegious.. but I am spread a bit thin with other projects right now and can't afford the $$$ one of those engines would cost me.. It does take a toll and is a bit frustrating sometimes having to stop along the way or wait for time to photograph and video each step rather than just digging in and busting out work! I'll be doing a DIY/Tech article and video on how we make the new running boards. I think I have a process sorted to make some steps that will be close to the originals, but with a custom flare. The key is making the "skeleton" framework with some round steel bar stock that has an O.D. that matches the radius on the outermost edge of the running boards. From there I'll make frame work for the top, then form the "skin" of the step in two pieces. One for the top with bead rolling in it (haven't decided if I want to go custom or stay true to the original beads), and then one piece for the side "skirt" portion of the running boards. My running boards are good for bases if anyone wanted them for copying to make their own, or if they wanted to try and save these.. but they are pretty beat up and rusty! I'd take a couple bucks or trade for a couple cans of Arnold Palmer Tea (my weakness!). I would prefer not to ship them, but if anyone is local enough and wants to swing by the shop here at Eastwood and grab them, welcome to! I'm currently waiting on 2 poly Prothane bushings to be replaced since they were formed incorrectly and are too small for the control arms I was rebuilding Once I get those in next week I will have the suspension all back together and will be able to air it up to roll around the shop. Then I can remove the 6cyl, clean the chassis up front and paint and detail those bits in anticipation for the new lump. Thanks for watching everyone, I really hope to have it moving under its own power this summer!

Sorry guys, it's been a while since I logged on here! Little update on the truck in my last few blog posts. I am currently working on putting the front suspension with air ride back together as we speak. Should be working on building the new running boards for the truck in the coming weeks. Found a (I know you guys hate it) 400 SBC to drop in the truck.. so that's what's cooking in the fire right now! http://blog.eastwood.com/category/50-dodge-project/ Some recent pics that I haven't posted yet on the blog for the new stance up front.. Also I have been scouting out future projects.. and remembered I knew where this one was sitting. From my research it seems to be a 50-51-ish Plymouth Concord "Fastback" .. I tried searching around on these forums.. but I couldn't find much info/discussion about them.. anyone able to point me in the right direction? This one if I get it will stay much more pure than the Pilot House. Dodge powered, original chassis, etc. I just plan to chop the top and smooth things a bit... Figure it's better becoming a custom than sitting and rotting away like it is! Cheers, Matt

Wish I could afford that! This time around it is a budget build.. so a :gasp: SBC engine will be used in the s10 chassis... don't hate me! All last week and early this week we have been picking away at the rebuild of the lower door skins. Man were they bad! We are filming a Tech video for the process and also the door/truck will be featured on our February catalog cover! Here are a few of the progress pics so far below. A full tech article and video to come in the next few weeks http://blog.eastwood.com/50-dodge-project/lower-door-skin-restoration/

Quick update blog post and video from late last week. Just got the word we are going to be using the truck for a February cover shot for the Eastwood catalog, so we are going to be repairing the lower door skins for the feature on the cover, as well as the doing some video to show the process. Should be fun. Stay tuned! http://blog.eastwood.com/50-dodge-project/cutting-bed/ -Matt/EW

I actually removed that last night. From all I can tell it is a period aftermarket piece as the original chassis still had the spare under the rear of the chassis.. guess the original owner needed 2 spares just in case Send me a PM I'd get rid of it for a few bucks plus shipping if you can find a use for it I think I may have spotted pics of yours on the HAMB or something before, definitely liking that! Do have a build on here where I can follow as you dig back into it? Yea the entire body will have a slight rake to it, so the bed follows suit. I'll post some cut shots later today, I spent a little time last night cutting it apart. A shot before I left for the evening:

Thanks for the input guys, those pics were still with things on jackstands and not 100% level bedwise. Today I got some more brackets added for the bed to sit at about the height it should be to match the top of the sides with the bottom/middle of the doorhandle approximately. The cab and front end were mounted/spaced to have a slight rake to them for visual reasons.. maybe that is throwing people off? It is a very slight rake though.. With a metal break it shouldn't be too hard to replicate the embossed panels. Getting everything fit up straight will be just as hard! Again as Merle mentioned, (and it's the same with a lot of long beds over time), it seems the added length in "long bed" trucks is added to the front of the bed. We are also using this project to show how to use some of our products, so it is a great chance to make the panels from scratch, then to search out a new bed. I like the challenge and I assure I have a vision where it may not be to everyone's liking.. but it won't be tacky or anything. Remember the truck will be low and on large wheels, which will drastically change the overall look of the truck. Thanks for watching. Here are a few outside pics I took today with the bed sitting a little better, we still need to center it on the chassis from left to right, but the height of the bed is about right. Discussion and friendly opinions are definitely welcomed, thanks for watching -Matt http://blog.eastwood.com/50-dodge-project/sitting-outside/