temecularevev

At this point, looks like "Stop Leak" will be the temporary solution until such time as I pull the engine. Thanks everyone for your knowledge and help. Craig

The trans is out, I'm changing the clutch. but I can not get the flywheel to drop out of the clutch housing. Too tight a space and the flywheel gets wedged when I try and drop it down. Pressure plate and clutch disk are out, but not the flywheel to make access to the plugs.

I suspected there must be a plug behind the flywheel, but unfortunately, my flywheel will not drop out of the clutch (bell) housing to make access to the plugs. I guess the only way to access is to remove the engine. UGH!!! Thanks for the info and photo. Craig

Yes, I got it off. A little struggle as part of housing flange was trapped under the rear engine/bell housing mounts. Thanks for the advice.

Hi Again, While working under the 49' I noticed coolant dripping out of the clutch housing cover (there is a small drain hole). I know there are a few expansion (freeze) plugs on the drivers side of the engine that are leaking. So is there a plug behind the flywheel? is this where the coolant coming from? Any ideas? As always, thanks, Craig

Thanks for the suggestions. I will get after it this week.

As relayed in my previous posts, I think I have done damage to the clutch disk with removal and replacement of the trans. After getting the trans back in and connecting all the other parts The clutch won't disengage. Other treads suggested I probably bent the clutch disk by forcing the trans back in. Anyway, I appears I must replace the clutch disk. So how do I do that without pulling the engine? I seems the cross member (that the rear mounts are connected to) cannot be removed. It's riveted and welded in place. How do I remove the Bell Housing with the motor still in and the cross member seemingly blocking the housing from coming back. The manual doesn't give a clue. And I've searched all over this forum with out much success. Lots of good pointers of what I did wrong and helpful hints for various parts of the project. But no direct advice on how to remove the bell housing so I can replace the clutch disk. Thanks so much, Craig

I have original 15" wheels on my 49 Plymouth Suburban. The "Dog Dish" retainer clips are attached (see photo). I would like to put on "Baby Moons." Anyone have an idea what will fit? I'm not sure what the inside diameter is needed to fit over the clips. Thanks, Craig

Thanks to all for the advice and links. Craig

Well, thanks again for giving me the confidence to try harder. My adult son came by and we both used prybars on each side with a jack to support and with 2 bolts a few threads in. It came loose. This forum and you guys are a invaluable resource. It does appear the bearing retainer gasket is the oil leak culprit. The "screw grommets" (they might just be "O" rings) are also pretty deteriorated. I will now be on the hunt for replacements. Thanks again, Craig

This is my 1949 Plymouth Suburban, recently purchased. Pretty much stock. I suspect a gear oil leak at the front of the trans, as the repair manual refers to as the Drive Pinion Bearing Retainer. The exploded drawing shows a gasket and screw grommets. I assume the leak is from one of these. Anyway, I followed the Manual instructions as to removal. The drive shaft, all the attachments and I loosened the 4 bolts attaching the trans to the bell housing. I expected the trans to come loose from the bell housing. But no. I jacked up the trans a bit, hoping for it to release. Nothing. I put a little prybar pressure. Still nothing. Am I missing something here? I don't want to bend or break anything. Also while I'm asking questions: 1. Any suggestions where to get the gasket and screw grommets? (if needed) 2. As might be seen in the photo, the rubber engine mounts are completely rotted and smashed. Advice on replacements? Thanks, Craig

I progressively whacked the puller. Gave it a 30 min rest and whacked again. A couple of tries and I came off. As seen in one of the photos, the previous owner had the brakes replaced. So maybe the drum was a bit easier to remove since it was off a few years ago. Thanks again, Craig P.S. Now off to post a transmission question.

Success!!!! Thanks again

Thanks to both. I'm giving it a try. I gave it a shot of PB Blaster. So far a few whacks with my single jack...nothing. Other posts suggest heat? And others suggest whacking it, then leaving for 20-30 mins, come back and whack again. Repeat until it comes loose. Any comments? I got the puller from Amazon. Some reviews critical of how the puller arms bend with too many whacks. So I'm at bit hesitant to really go after it. This is my first classic Mopar. I presently have a 64 Ranchero.

I am attempting to remove the rear drums on my 49 Plymouth Suburban. But my wheels and drums are held on by studs, not lug nuts. If I use a puller, attaching to the studs, will I be pulling just the drum? What are those threaded nuts behind the drum attached to? I understand the typical drum which has the studs connected to the drum, and pulling on the studs will release the drum. But what about my situation? But will attaching the puller to my studs still remove the drum? Thanks.