dvanecek

Tim, Thanks for the info. Let me know if you have a spare and whatcha need for it. I am actually in need of the interior and exterior pieces. Any condition will work.

Is the divider bar & trim interchangable between a p15 and d24?

thanks guys i should be goos now. I'll post some pics of my floors when I get them buttoned up. I'm kinda wingin it here so this info really helps.

Yep sill mat clearance it one of my concerns. So I would like to get the measurement from the inside of the car. a ballpark would be great. I could not compare sides becasue both side were previously hacked to bits.

A pic would help but I really need the measuremnt for the gap between the bottom on the door and the top of the floor boards when the door is closed, metal to metal. No carpet, sill pads, etc.

bump, anyone got a tape measure? I'll take any D24 measurement.

Sorry I missed it Tim. I'll have to catch the next one.

Can someone with a original or restore car tell me how much gap they have between the bottom of the door and the floor boards. If I could get a measurement at the hindge side (where it is flat) and at the back right before it curves back up. I am replacing my floors and I want to get that gap halfway close.

I wish mine were as solid as I thought it was originally Heres a pic from the ebay auction. In the pic there are Rochester carbs. I'm gonna run holley 94's. I'm still looking for some more so if anyone has any extra I'm interested.

I'm using 55 - 74 jeep cab mounts from energy suspension. I used the original body mount in the cross braces and bolted then in and shimmed the brace 3/8 in off the frame. Then welded them in. The worst rust was in the body mount by the rear inner fenders. I was lucky enough to find a gutted plymouth at the pull a part. They were close neough to work.

It's been a while since I posted any updates. I've working on the floors. I've cut out all the rockers and floors. I remade the floor bracing by putting on 1x2 tubing running from the cowl to the door latch post, then to the inner wheel rear wheel well. Then I fabbed up 4 of the 6 cross braces out of 16 gauge steel and repaired the 2 that are closet to the cowl. I am bagging it so that is why the driveshaft loop is so high. I willput a 90 bend in the floor sheeting (16 gauge also) to make the inner rockers which will weld to the inner side of the 1x2. and then the outer rockers will go from the flors to the bottom of the 1x2. Here are some pics. The last is a crappy front view of the car about an inch below ride height. I'm really proud of the 6x2 intake I found for my big block. That will hopefully run as good as it looks.

Thanks Tim. Now all i gotta do Is find the hood trim Where do you get these after market kits you speak of? Are they actually like the old buick in which you can do either one or release both and remove the hood? or are you talking about the import side hinge kits? I know I gotta get down there. I have my first baby on the way so I'm trying to get as much done on this car before Dec. I'll PM you my email.

Very good point. Forgive me for I am Polish. It's a 47 Dodge Coupe.

CAn some show pics and explain how the hood mounts and what pieces are needed? I have 2 hood halves, the hood ornament/curved piece, and the latch bars. What I don't have is the hindge or trim. Pics and explaination would be very helpful. Can this hinge be made some how?

Ok so I'm building a 47 dodge coupe. Will a desoto or chrysler front clip fit? if so what all do I need. The wheel bases are longer on those model even the coupes. so I don't know if the cowl-core support measurement are the same. So has anyone done this.

Damn bro, that sucks. glad you found it and got it patched.

That is the exact reason why I'm running a 383 BB. They are great motors.

I have already done the R&P setup, and I may be running a rear sump pan to clear the steering if I need to. I already have a mildly built 383, 727 and a 3.55 sure grip. My pride an joy is the rare edelbrock 6x2 intake I dug up. As far as the chevy motors, never ever. I really looking for where others mounted the motor,rad,etc. and what rad they used. I actually alrady have the motor/trans in and I'm planning on mounting the rad in front of the core support. My motor is set back about 3 inchs into the firewall. luckily I have a ton of legroom in that business coupe.

Anyone else put a big block in here. I'm looking for suggestions and working recipes.

I gotta hear about this brake relocation deal?

I was hoping you would reply to this. I was gonna PM you today. Next time your in A-town give me a shout. 404-667-7094. I've got so much going on I doubt I'll get down there any time soon. In fact I will be out of town the next 3 weekends alone!!!! The dodge has been on the back burner since I've been working on my shovelhead, which is also a pain in the ass. Do you have any threads with pics/info of you setup?

Anyone running BB/727 in there 48-48 dodges? I looking for pics and suggestions. I have been hacking away at this and now I wanting to move it foraward a bit. So I want to start fresh with some suggestion from those that have done it. what Rad did you use? what fan did you use? how much did you recess the firewall? Where did you put the rad? Motor mount? what other mods had to be done? Right now I was going to run the clutch fan inside the rad core support. But I could move the engine farward a few inches if I run a electric fan in front, but then you lose 30% of you airflow.

Cadillac started the "trend" in 1957.

I have stuff in the way otherwise I would post pics of the side profile. I am very careful when I build things. safety first, so i am very cautious os scrub lines etc. This front end is setting on the bump stops. I will make sure that in the event of a blown bag I will still safely beable to manuver the car. Here is a link to the HAMB where I posted some of my bag setup fab pics. What isn't shown is the bag mounted, but basically I built it so I can pull the bag out if needed. The upper cup shown in the picutre is bolted to the top of the bag the lower cup is welded to the A arm. 2 bolts hold things in place and the upper cups slips into the stock upper spring retainer. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190415

bring you butt down here and check it out then. I used slam specialties 6" bags. I hat to trim the pocket a bit to fit. I'll take better pictures when I get them back in. here is a pic of the lower A arm I modified. for the upper mount I modified the s10 bracket by cuttin the bolt and welding in a new one the line up with the hole created by cuttin out the factory frame rivet. (I welded up the frame first). hard to explain without seeing it.