Ray J.

Mine is electric also but does not look like your picture. I woke it up with a 12volt tickle and then used a 12 to 6v converter to run it for a few minutes. Extremely quiet. Removed driveshaft from tranny and am waiting for weather to get out of the extreme heat advisory before I remove tranny, clutch and flywheel. Ray J.

not much accomplished lately. Removed wiper motor for testing, started wiring, made up front and rear brake lines and removed front driveshaft at the transmission. Wife came home from a visit with her sis in Maine and brought back covid. I did not catch it thank the Lord. Today I will install the front and rear brake lines and remove the clutch bolts and test the wiper motor on 6 volts. Ray J.

Just a piece of cardboard. Today the plan changed. After three days of luby-duby with PB blaster I removed the clutch and brake pedals and the tranny bolts. Tranny is on a jack and will move it back tomorrow. Cab back and floor will wait until clutch and ring gear are replaced. Ray J.

All new clutch parts are finally here. Cut out bad section of floor. Lubed up clutch and brake pedal attachment points in preparation to pull tranny back far enough to get clutch and flywheel out. Plan to fit the pieces I made for the back of the cab tomorrow. Quit today when it reached 95 in the shop. Ray J.

My wheel cylinders were in excellent condition. They were redone before it was parked. The old pistons still had the red anodized coating on them. Bought new pistons off of evilbay plus cups, expanders and end caps. Honed and reassembled. We are under a heat advisory so no work yesterday or today. Wish I had AC in my shop. Ray J.

Been busy with honey do list. Firewall is painted, rear end relocated and bolted in place and waiting on some spring eye bolts. Cut out rust at the bottom of the cab back and made new pieces to be plug welded in and then seam sealed. Today is shop blow out dust and vacuum floor and truck day. Ray J.

The rear spring hangers and spring eye bushings are out and that was a job. Bushings are on order. Started prep work to remove the clutch. Ring gear is also on order. Tomorrow is definitely a wiring day. Ray J.

Should have been more clear, the Dewalt is a hammer drill / drill. It shows the chuck should be here tomorrow. Took the weekend off. If you have any ring gear mfg. preference let me know. Ray J.

I need a ring gear. I have s list of 12 mfg's for them but almost everyone list for the automatic. Are they the same for the 5 speed ? Ordered a NOS Mopar TO brg. Drilled the 4 holes for the pass side spring perch and the chuck on my 1/2" Dewalt hammer drill layed down on me so that is on order. My new Drill Hog step bits could not go past the 1/2" step and I need 5/8" holes. Finished them out with a 5/8" Drill Hog bit. Working on the honey-do list today. ­FLYWHEEL RING GEAR MFG'S Anchor 146NC Anchor 153F Autocraft RG146SR Big A XG57 Chromite FM146SR Dorman - OE Solutions 4406 Ford EAA6384A Motormite 4406 NAPA 6003011 PTC RG56 Sealed Power 416120 Venture Products 146SR Has anyone used any of these ? Ray J.

I can get the clutch plate and pressure plate from Len but cannot locate the T.O. bearing and sleeve and have not been able to cross ref them. I located the rear end in the frame and moved the bed back past where I need to drill the new holes. No work today as we have a broken air conditioner and a heat wave warning. They came and replaced the compressor and it is working hard to bring the temp down from 89 degrees in the house. Boss says no work tomorrow as we are grilling out for company. Happy 4th to all. Ray J.

Any advice as to where I might get a clutch disc, pressure plate. sleeve and TO bearing ? Anyone dealt with Len Dawson's deception Pass Motor Parts ? Thanks in advance for any help. Ray J.

I am taking your advice and getting a new tank. I have some pictures of the bed in place but got the cart before the horse. Must lower the bed and center rear tires and mark where spring hanger holes are to be drilled, then move the bed back. Will leave it back until I get the clutch disc, pressure plate and TO bearing replaced. Ray J.

Cleaned and painted rear hubs. Cleaned rear axle tubes with a dryer vent cleaning tool on a drill. painted and reinstalled rear diff cover. Checked the radiator and heater core and both passed with no leaks. Put a gallon of acetone and a gallon of ATF in the gas tank and strapped it in the bucket of my tractor and mowed for about 6 hours over a two day period.Bore scope shows it still has varnish on the bottom but the sides are very clean. I will do the same the next time I mow with a small chain in the tank. That nasty looking table is made out of the rear part of the add on frame. Nice patina. Ray J.

Been slacking off due to a hurt right elbow. Have managed to finish welding the oil pan baffle back in, welding the broken retainer clip on the front brake backing plate, finished installing the rear brake retainer springs and determining that the clutch disc and pressure plate need replaced due to molly mouse whizzing inside the pressure plate and rusting it solid. Now I need some info as to where is a good place to buy a clutch. Tomorrow is gas tank, radiator and heater core day. Ray J.

Finished up adding braces to my homemade table and set the rear frame on it. Table was made out of the rear section someone added on and I cut off. It has a 16 foot wheelbase. I plan to move the rear end forward Monday. Placed a 4x6 across jack stands in case one of my booger welds lets go. Ray J.

The bed is back on and all the way forward which gives me access to the last rivets to be removed. I will put the frame on my table to hold it and drop the rear end and remove those rivets. Then move the rear end forward, put on the tires and center it in the wheel well and drill the new holes for the rear ends new home. Setup ignition system and it sparks GREAT. Ray J.

Thank you to 47 1.5 ton for getting me on the right track. My front brake drums are on and went on so easy. Ray J.

My plan is to remove the shoes and make sure they have full contact with the drum. I will probably do as you suggest and remove material from the shoes to get a proper fit. Today is my 81st BD so I will take it easy and just clean and paint some parts. Cannot take it easy as wife wants her Morris back. Need to get truck shortened and running so I can get the Morris out of the shop. Got all the rivets out of the rear spring mounts and moved bed back where I can work on the front spring mounts. Found out that if I drilled through the rivet with a 3/16" bit I could finish it with a step bit. Instead of drilling each rivet with 3 different bits, which took about 1/2 hour each, I could finish each rivet in about 10 minutes. The spring is in the way so I cannot drill it out until I remove all of the new bolts and lower the rear end to let the spring perch rotate to where I can get at it. Ray J.

well the front brakes will not let the hub go on, on either side. On the back burner for now. Did manage to get the outside covers for the heater painted. Today I removed the pass side rear spring perch rivets out and 5/8" bolts in their place. Ray J.

Hello, I have the front brake shoes installed and finished welding the oil pan baffle back in. Picked up a cheap light at wally world and had it over the engine but moved it inside the cab so I could see when I removed the seat riser. I have some rust issues to repair and am not using the stock seat. It sets my belly up against the steering wheel so a seat that is not so tall and has a thinner seat back will be located at a later date. Hope to get the front hubs on tomorrow. Ray J.

I have the 251 engine. I might rent a mag drill or tough it out and drill by hand. It looks like around 5 feet will need to be removed. Only update is I replaced the 6v heater motor with a 12v motor and painted the back of the heater box. I installed the front brake shoes and wheel cylinders Got the relined rear shoes back but waiting for the real oil seals. Tomorrow I will install front oil seals and bearings and put on the front hubs. Need some grease which I will get tomorrow. Ray J.

Hello, I used a large cup wire brush on a grinder. Lots of hand sanding and lots of brake cleaner followed by acetone wipe down. Used UPOL etching primer and painted with Rustoleum aluminum spray can paint. The wheel mating surface will be cleaned after the brakes are installed. Thought about using my sand blaster but that entails a lot of extra careful cleaning. Just got up from a nice nap (us 81 year olds need those beauty naps) and it is going on noon so up and at'em. Mounting terminal blocks that the main fuse block will feed. Keeping accessories and engine wiring on separate blocks and wiring it from scratch. Ray J. Ray j.

Howdy, The first seals I bought were too big on the ID. OD was good. Took all four seals to our local bearing store and he had two for the front that fit fine. He gave me Timken part number for the rear seals so they are on order. I gave him the four seals and he gave me the front seals at no cost. A quick wipe down with acetone will get the paint off. On to wiring today. Ray J.

Front and rear backing plates cleaned and painted as are the front hubs. Have new shoes and and seals for the front and am waiting for seals and relined shoes to be shipped. Tomorrow is mowing day for me and my wife. I think I will start wiring until brake stuff comes in. Ray J.

More work on the truck.