DPCD1941

So here are my thoughts. Today when it stumbled and died I went right to the carb, removed the air cleaner and pumped the throttle. Nice solid shots of fuel. It started back up drove 2-300 feet and died. Checked and nice solid shots of fuel. This to me rules out Fuel pump/ carb because if the Bowl was run dry it would not be able to refill until I started cranking it over again? Right? I just installed a new coil from NAPA, so we will try again tomorrow when I have someone available to drag me home. Checking for spark is a bit of a bitch by myself due to the old girl having a manual starter pedal.

I am having the same problem but without the Electric fuel pump. It is on a 1941 WC with the 230 engine. I have tried new distributor, points, condenser and rebuilt Carburetor. New Fuel lines and cleaned the pump and inline filter. I can Idle for an hour no issues. But if I drive a mile down the road I start sputtering and die. Then wait a couple mins and it will start up and drive 200-400 feet sputter and die. Over and over. After it dies I still have fuel to the carb and I can pump the gas and rev it as it dies. I can only assume it has to be a spark issue. The temperature outside doesn’t affect it either. The most frustrating part is I can’t replicate it in the driveway. so every time I try an adjustment I have to leave, break down, call the wife and get towed back home. I am at my wits end. The only thing left to replace is the coil and it should be here tomorrow.

I have most of those. My theory was that as the fuel boiled off it was too lean to run and full choke cut out enough air to keep it running. I pulled the carb today and disassembled it tomorrow I’ll order a gasket kit and the new heat flapper and rod. At this point I’m just going to overhaul all of that. Mechanical fuel pump is fairly new but I’ll look into a pressure test on it. Not quite sure how to plumb that up but I’m sure google will help. When I have the intake/exhaust off I’ll check valve clearance. Is it a long shot to assume the carb is dirty and the truck is running lean leading to excessive heat that then heat soaked the carburetor and compounds the problem?

Not sure about the coil but the fuel bowl was full when it happened. Also the manifold and carb are very hot. The unfortunate part of this whole process is I have to drive it until I’m stranded to test these things.

I don’t believe it has ever worked for the last ten years. It is on my list of things to replace. The question is why would it be a problem now in summer and winter. It was 33 degrees when it happened Saturday and about 80 in July. Worth looking into though.

So I will try and keep this short and to the point. It has been very frustrating to say the least. Background: 230ci have had it for 10 years and taken it on +3 hr drives. Current: In July I was about an 90 mins into a drive and I started losing power. If I pulled the choke all the way out I could kind of keep it running but with low power. Limped it to my destination. In the process I noticed the carburetor was getting very hot and boiling the fuel. After some reading online I came to a conclusion it may be due to ethanol and summer temps. Wrapped the entire fuel line with manifold tape and headed for home at the end of the weekend. Made it about 30 mins and it started again. Removed the Thermostat on the side of the freeway to see if that would get me home. No luck and it was never running hotter than usual. After more research I came to the conclusion my Distributor advance was shot and causing early ignition into the exhaust manifold causing the excessive heat and cooking the radiator. Bought a remanufactured distributor and went for a 20 mile drive in November everything worked great. Also attended a very long Parade in November with no problems but I trailered it to the Event in Oregon. So the only driving was about a half hour in the parade. This weekend I went for a drive and after about 2 miles the engine lost power. I was able to keep the engine running with the choke on but not create enough power to move. Flat towed it home and now it sits. The Question: what else could be causing the excessive heat that is boiling the gas? I have had this vehicle for ten years and this engine for about five. It has made a 240 mile trip every August with no problems in the heat. Please help!! *rebuilt distributor IAY-4102 *did not reuse old points and condenser *Have not put the Thermostat back in *was at 110° when it lost power *Military truck with stock 12v System