38Plyroadking

Do you need any parts for this car? I know someone who is parting one out. Paul

I took it immediately after I got out. I was driving it to a stop like that, with only 3 wheels too! It was like a circus act, but nobody was laughing at this one!! :-( At least I am here to tell the story! :-) Another car guy I know has a similar one (mostly just a shell) that is in need of major rust repair. He wants to buy the car from me to use it to build his. Kind of like an organ donor situation. That would be kind of cool in that the car wouldn't just rust away somewhere or be scrapped and made into a Toyota!! I'd like to see that happen! I'll keep you all updated. Later, Paul

My recommendation is to put the fire exstinguisher on teh seat next to you. I might not have had time to pull the seat forward and then grab it plus my adrenaline was pumping so I couldn't think of anything but save my self. The first thing I had to do was get the car to the side of the road on 3 wheels and on fire...it was scary and happened in seconds. As for why the wheel came off, i dont know. It just stripped the nuts off of the lugs, all of them. It should not have happened since it was a rear from a 93 Ford ranger and I tightened the nuts last night! Paul

Hey Guys, that was my car. I was in the car when it was on fire and struggled to get my seat belt off (while watching the flames in the mirror get bigger. I did get out without a scratch. I did have a fire exstinguisher behind the seat but barely had time to get out and save myself. I just got her running great and was enjoying an hour long ride when this happened right at my exit. Paul

Correct, agreed. But at what pressure? It seems to me that you'd get more filtering on a cold engine than a warm one. Does that sound logical? So, if we increase the pressure during the warm "phase" of operating the engine (using a heavier spring) then we could increase the lenght of time the oil flows through the filter. I assume that the integrity of the filter can has to be maintained to withstand that pressure also. Just trying to think logically here, sort of out of the box. Then there is my second second question (just noticed that typo there, really the third q) of if it can be converted to a full time system. Paul

I've been thinking about this a lot lately since I had an issue with the oil pressure gage on my 38 coupe reading 0 upon start up, and continuing to read 0 for another 40 minutes of running at which time it rose to a whopping 8 PSI. Fixed that by putting a spacer behind the tired bypass valve spring (I know, I should buy a new spring, but I am impatient. ). I knew the spring was probably the problem from reading all of the good info here on this site. Thanks. Anyway, I was wondering about a couple of things. 1. The valve, by design, allows oil to flow through the filter when pressure is sufficient...Is this correct.....What is that pressure? 2. If you put the stiffer spring in to increase the pressure would that mean that more oil would flow through the filter? 2. Is it possible to convert this to a full time filtering system? Paul

He is asking $1000.

Hey Guys, Jus throwing this out there. I know someone that has a 48 dodge 3W coupe in decent condition. Its a project though. Comes with good engine and 2 trannys, Edmunds dual intake with carbs. Frontend was just rebuilt with new bushings and other stuff. Extra fenders and hood. I'm not sure if I want it (no storage or time to rebuild it) but thought I'd see if there was any interest here for a friend. Price is low too. located in SE Mass. pictures at http://www.flickr.com/photos/blewett_john Let me know if this is inappropriate here. Just trying to help Paul

Cool picture and a nice day to boot! I saw similar signs on a bunch of barns last week while driving through PA. They looked Nordic or Ahmish, sort of. Paul

Don, This picture is EXCELLENT!!!!!! Thank you!!! Now I see that I should move the oil gage take off to the back #4 plug. I cant thank you guys enough. This site is great. Paul

Thanks for all the help and quick replies. Paul

Greg, thats exactly what I am trying to do. I just want to verify the location of it on the 201 flatty of which when I searched here could not find anything on its location. I could only find the location for the 218/230. Is it the same location? I dont want to screw anything up as I have it running really well now. Thanks, Paul

Hey Guys, I have an oiling problem where the oil gage reads zero until the engine has run about 30 minutes. I blew out the line from the gage to the pick up on the block (down near where the oil filter line picks off the block, driver's side) but that didnt help. I verified that there is oil coming out of the pick up port so I now there is some, though it seems very little, oil pressure. I see from searching on this siteI gather that it could be the oil pump bypass valve/spring. I also see here that for the 230 its in the same area of the oil port (to the rear a little more) with a plug that has a square wrenching surface. On my 201 there appears to be the same type set up except its a hex head, it looks bigger, and it is right under the pickup. Would you guys confirm that this is the valve? If I take it out would all the oil in the filter canister spill out since the vavle is right below the filter? One more question. Is there a better place on the block to connect the oil pressure gage tube in order to get a better reading? Thansk for the help in advance!! Paul

Hey Bob (or anyone else that knows), I the picture you provided I see that the car has the hubcaps with the flying ship on them. Would those fit my 38 Plymouth coupe wheels? I have wheel vintiques with the original hub caps on the that just say plymouth. Paul

Did you check the gap on the plugs? When you put the HEI in you should increase the gap to 45 or 50 from what I've read on this forum. I'm not sure that is the answer but.... Paul