Merle Coggins

The VIN Decoder at https://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php shows this...

I took a look in my parts manual and it appears that the same starter P/N is used for all trucks through the H series. I haven't been able to figure out what the --- --- is referencing, but even though they break things down by serial number breaks, and what-not, they all end up showing the same part number. So, it shouldn't matter which year you get one from, ('48-'53) it should work for you. 

 
I know you are asking for '51 specific starters, but based on this Parts Manual data, I'll share a few pics I have of the starter in my '50 B2C. These photos weren't specifically targeting the starter when I took them, but I believe they'll show you how the starter yolk/arm on my truck looks, compared to what you may have. I couldn't find any pics in my photo library of the starter after installing the cab, to show the alignment of the starter to the stomp rod. If you want/need that I can go out to the garage this evening and get some for you. 

 

 

 

I don't believe you need to worry about that. The wheel cylinders are held in place by the 2 bolts, and nothing else. 

DCM has replacement drag links with replaceable tie rod ends. I got one for my truck so that I could adjust the length to get my steering wheel straight again after the disc brake conversion. The caliper bracket moves the steering arm inwards, which changes the steering wheel angle. The adjustable drag link allowed me to correct that, plus it tightened up a little bit of play from the old drag link ends. 

Have you checked the fluid level in the Fluid Drive? It would have to be quite low to act this way, but it may be something to check. You'll need to remove the toe boards and trans cover parts of the floor boards to access it. There'll be a round cover in the bell housing at around 1:00 or 2:00 position. The cover will pop off and expose access to the level/fill plug. You'll probably need to slowly crank the engine over until you can see the plug through the access hole. Then CAREFULLY remove the plug without dropping it. A magnetic socket is helpful here, or put a paper shop towel over the plug, then press the socked over that to make a tight fit as you remove the plug. This will help hold the plug into the socket for removal. 
Once you have the plug removed you should be able to see fluid. The fluid level should be right up to the level of that plug hole. Official Fluid Drive Fluid is obsolete, but I am using an AW32 tractor Hydraulic oil in mine and it's working just fine. 
 
The next thought is... if the level is low, why? Is the bellows seal leaking? Or did someone drain it at some point in time and didn't refill it? 

I want to say 1 inch, but I'm not 100% sure on that. 

While you’re back there, check the resistance of the sender wire to chassis ground. You should get somewhere between 10 and 90 ohms, depending on the level of the tank. If that’s an open circuit that would account for your “E” reading and you’ll have to diagnose the sender or the wire going to it. Temporarily ground out the sender terminal at the back of the gauge wit the key on. The needle should go to “F” quickly. If it doesn’t you have a faulty gauge. 

There are no bushings in the throttle linkage. It was just considered a maintenance item to add a couple drops of oil to the joints periodically. However, if you have lateral movement of the throttle pedal you probably have an issue with the 2 ball studs that mount the heal of the pedal. These should keep your pedal from moving sideways.

Yes, that's likely the casting date of the case. I've never seen a model ID listed for these transmissions. They're just New Process 4 speeds. I believe the later version is refered to as the NP420. Non-synchro vs. synchronized transmissions refers to how the sliding gears function. In the early spur gear, non-synchronized transmissions the gears have straight cut teeth and there are no synchronizers to aid in shifting. With these transmissions you need to learn the art of double clutching your shifts. The later, synchronized, version was introduced into the Dodge trucks in '51. This transmission has helical cut gear teeth for quieter operation and syncronizers on 3rd and 4th gears for easier shifting. Pretty much all modern transmissions are of this synchronized type now. 
 
Another way to know the difference, and how I identified this one, is that on the earlier spur gear units the PTO drive was ahead of the fill/level plug whereas the later, synchronized, units have the PTO moved rearward with the fill/level plug towards the front. 

Your B3C and B4C should have the same size bed, but the bed board layout in the B4 will be a bit different. More boards, and narrower each. The B3B would have the narrower, and shorter, bed than the 3/4 ton versions. 

You need the proper drum/hub puller to get the drums off. They are on a tapered shaft and will be tight. 

If you don't run the nut on tight they should come back off without an issue. Just set them onto the axles and measure. Shouldn't be off my more than a 1/4" or so.

That is NOT normal. A fully charged 6 volt battery should have 6.3 volts and you should never see the voltage drop to 3.8 when trying to crank. Either the battery has no capacity or only has a good surface charge. Another possibility is that the engine can't rotate and the starter is stalling out causing a high current draw, which will pull down the voltage, but not that badly.
 
Have your battery load tested and check that the engine can be rotated by hand. Either by putting a wrench on the crank pulley and cranking it over, or by turning the fan blade with the belt tight. You could also get under the car, drop the clutch inspection cover and try prying the against the ring gear with a large screwdriver/pry bar.
 
Merle

It looks to me that your "used" clutch disc doesn't have an even friction surface and is causing the chatter as it engages. Basically it grips and slips until it is fully clamped down by the clutch.
 
Merle

Is the groove you reference in the seal area or in the bearing area? If it's on the seal surface you can use a Speedi-sleeve to make a smooth surface for the seal. They are sold by size, so you'll have to measure the diameter with a good caliper or micrometer.
 
If they are in the bearing area you should be able to polish it smooth and go with it, as long as the bearings still fit well on the spindles.
 
Merle