277 HEMI

I just got it on the road some weeks back and still doing the inside and wireing before its completed. Here are two pictures of it.

Let me know when you receive it please. AL

Guys, I just put my 48 plymouth up for sale. check it out. Thanks AL

I need a glove box "HINGE" and "LOCK" for a 1948 Desoto dash. Other "MOPAR" glove box hinges may fit this door so I measured the distance between the mounting holes listed below The part number on the back side of my door is : B 3 2958 The Distance between the "outer" two mounting holes (left to right) are: 9 inches The Distance between the "inter" two mounting holes (left to right) are: 6 1/2 inches The distance between the LOCK mounting holes are: 1 1/2 If anyone can help please email me: a277hemi@verizon.net Thanks AL

Hi Guys, I need two of the four gauges, "oil", and "Amp"; they need not work, I just need the instrument "box" and faces to complete the dash in my car. Thanks for any help on this one. AL

I'll try to contact him.

As they say, "the check is in the mail" and thanks for keeping the form up, I don't post a lot but I do read it. AL

Innovative design associates, inc 4515 Kirkcaldy Rd Bloomfield Hills, MI 48304 phone # is 248-646-0158 POC is Diran Yazejian cost per 2 dr set is $269.00$ This data was posted back in 2006 but the phone number and zip has changed. I talked to Diran and he still makes the rubber sills that match our old pattern. His cost is very reasonable and shipping is low. I don't know how heavy the rubber is, he said something about "rolling them up" to ship them because they don't come with a hard backing. Maybe someone that has used his Sills can give us an input on how good they are. Has anyone used the sills that Mr. Acuff out of GA. makes and do they come with a "hard" backing?? Looking for some inputs Guys. AL

Hi Guys, I am putting suicide doors on my P15 48 coupe but can’t load the pictures on the form so I added a link at the bottom to see how the project is going. I just tried the link and it looks like too much of all my projects comes up and it may take a minite to load, so read this befor you look at the pictures. First the outside trim and door handles will not be changed, but they will open the suicide door. When the outside handles are used to open the car door, the other end of the door will open. Now that should cause so head to turn don’t you think? How it all started. I was working on the car and had the drivers door off and I need to load the car on the trailer to take it up to the shop an have the exhaust system installed. After getting in and out of the car over the next couple of days without the door installed I noted that it was so easy to just swing my old legs out and step out of the car and that’s when I begin to think of reversing the door swing. It turned out not to be an easy thing to do on this car either because of the way the door and body arks out. I guess that’s why no one has done it (I haven’t seen one before, am I the first one!!) The concave or bowl-shaped of the outside of the door and along the bottom of the car works against its self when the door opens, it moves in on its self (door to body) very quickly and will stop the door from opening very wide (about 20 degrees) that’s the way it came out the first time, and the second time. To overcome this problem I had to relocate the hinge pens centers (a lot of times) more to the outside of the of the body skin (they are inside the door jam now and it won’t go but so far ) and this changes the hinge axis center to allow the hinge ark to widen and give the door a wider ark to allow it to open wider before it hits the body. The bottom/back of the doors had to be changed like the front of the doors to allow them to open pass the bottom of the body. I did this by cutting off the front/bottoms of two other doors and reversing them to opposite sides of the car. By reversing this area of the door, the door now moves out away from the body at the bottom (like the front of door did) allowing the door to now open to about 45 degrees. But Murphy now says you must rebuild the back door post to match the new door bottom, or make it like the front door post. Hay, I am in the forest too far now to back out, so that’s what I did. I also installed the bear claws locks in the doors to make it safer and the normal inside/outside handles will operate everything just like the old handles (old people don’t like too much change you know). I’ll update you Guys as the project moves on. You all be safe out there. Later AL PS: The following link is to my project pictures, I hope it works. http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/277Hemi/?newest=1

I thought you Guys might like to hear about my new project is. I am putting suicide doors on my P15 48 coupe (I have lots of picturers but they are too big to put on the site, if someone can make them smaller email me and maybe you can post them) The outside trim and door handles will not be changed so everything will open my new doors so when the outside handle is pressed down the other end of the door will open. Now that should cause some heads to turn don’t you think? I was working on the my car and had the driver side door off to do some work on it and I need to load the car on a trailer to take the car up to a shop an have a new exhaust system installed. After getting in and out of the car over the next couple of days without the door installed I noted that it was so easy to just swing my old legs out and step out of the car and that’s when I begin to think of reversing the door swing. I had no idea how much work it would take to complete this dumb project, it not easy to do this on this type of car body either because of the way the door and body arks out and the bottom body area. I have never seem suicide doors on a P15 48 coupe before. Now I know why, its a lot of work to it, maybe that’s why no one has done it before (I haven’t seen one before, am I the first one!!) The concave or bowl-shaped of the outside of the door and body works against its self when the door opens, it moves in on its self (door to body) very quickly and will stop the door from opening very wide (about 30 degrees) that’s the way it came out the first time, and the second time. To overcome this problem I had to relocate the hinge pens centers (a lot of times) more to the outside of the of the body skin (they are inside the door jam so it won’t go but so far ) and this changes the hinge axis center to allow the hinge ark to widen and give the door a wider ark to allow it to open wider before it hits the body but to make it work so the door would open wider I cut the front off of two other door and reversed them (drivers door front was put on the back of the passenger door and rebuild the door post to match it). I also installed the bear claws locks in the doors to make it safer and the normal inside/outside handles will operate everything just like the old handles (old people don’t like too much change you know). I had a small HEMI engine installed but it got too hard to add the AC and power steering on a one belt crank pulley so when I came across a complete, just overhauled small block, 350 Chevy engine for next to nothing with a big three belt crank pulley on it I jumped on it. I had picked up a 700R to put behind the HEMI so now it will go in back of the new Chevy engine. I have the HEMI and automatic transmission for sale, the first $3,000.00 or best offer and its gone. Pictures and data upon request I’ll update you as the project moves on. You all be safe out there. 277hemi

This car was completely restored 3 years ago and is an all steel car: The L head 6 cylinder engine was completely rebuilt and has less than 5K on it. New tires, new Paint and new inside The car is equipped with new under the dash AC unit and has an Over Drive transmission, runs very nice at 70 mph /low RPMs. The car is being sold without the radio or clock. Please, serous buyer only. I have over $17,000.00 in the car, but will consider fair offers Picture links below and addition more Pictures upon request via your email I am building another car and need the garage space Work Phone: 757-686-4259 7AM to 2PM Thank you for looking, AL http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/277Hemi/MynewPicture001.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/277Hemi/My%20%20Daily%20Driver%20is%20a%2048%20Plymouth%20Coupe/New48Plym.jpg http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/277Hemi/My%20%20Daily%20Driver%20is%20a%2048%20Plymouth%20Coupe/InsideofDailyDriver.jpg

Try spraying some carburetor cleaner on the gasket areas when block cool and see if the engine goes up in RMS; if so take the intake off and add a gasket sealer to a new set of gaskets and retorque it down to spec.

Hi Guys, I am reposting my 48 P15 delux coupe on the for Car for sale but its on page two. One of your guys came by the houe last month and I gave him an engine and transmision and I think he saw the car. fernwood48@gmail.com is his email, ask him how it look. This is a very nice car with a completely rebuilt engine that has less than 5K on it. New tires, new Paint and the inside was redone too. The car is equipped with an Over Drive transmission, but I will remove the OD trans and replace with standard 3 speed to lower car price. The car is being sold without a radio or clock. I have over $14K in the car but will consitor less. Please contact me only if your a serous buyer. Pictures and links are with the add and addation Pictures upon request. I am building other cars and need the garage space My email: Alvin.Fam@uscg.mil Work Phone: 757-686-4259 7AM to 2PM Thank you for looking, 277hemi

Thanks Bob, this is just what I have been looking for. AL/277hemi

My old standby saying is “if it can go wrong, it will” better known to the Guys on the east coast, “it’s a Fam thing”. With all that said, I just finished welding in the last peace to hold my old P15 gas tank in an El Comino frame (yes I am putting a Plymouth body on a Chevy truck frame) but as I begin to install it I hear all this stuff moving inside the tank. So I look inside the gas tank and see all this junk inside it. After further investigation it seem that all the old tank “sealer” someone did a long time ago has came loss while I had it in storage. I see no way of removing it short of cutting the tank in half which I would rather not do. I”ll start looking for a late model replacement in the junk yards next week, but I would prefer to use a real P15 tank and sending unit. If anyone one should have a P15 tank that they would part with for price or know of one for sale I’ll buy it ASAP. I can be emailed at my work address too: Alvin.fam@L-3com.com Thanks for any help on this one Guys. 277hemi