stylinmike

Thanks for the links, will keep you updated when I get to the point of mounting my rack and fabbing prototypes up.

I think ill actually make them from steel. Should turn out pretty nice. Thinking about making the balljoint receiving end to actually accept the cavalier tie rods so there would be no welding or adapters required. Can anyone tell me if the cavalier tie rods were the same length as the dodge/plymounth ones when installed? Also, is the stock hole in the steering arm tapered at all?

Hmmm....I may be able to design up an aluminum steering arm replacement. Anyone see any issues with it being aluminum over steel? Should be plenty strong if im using 3/4"-1" round stock

Yea, my car is a 47 dodge (coupe). Im from Canada, but its a Montana car. Ill be making my own (maybe many) r&p brackets, but the info is much appreciated. What is the limiting factor on the turning radius of the Fatman/Plydo kits, the stroke of the cavalier rack? Also, anyone have any info/pictures on the motor swap mounts?

Thanks. It appears that its just 1.5 square tubing welded to a 1/4" plate, kind of rough looking. I think once I have the motor and body pulled Im going to develop a nicer looking bracket that wraps around both sides of the frame and has some nice circles cut out of it for bonus points. Ill probably make it bolt in as well if I decide to sell it so that those who cant weld or have no access to a welder can use it. Ive got a powdercoat setup too so maybe ill go that route as well as long as it keeps price reasonable. Ill keep the forum updated when I get to that stage.

A buddy and I run a custom shop for mainly modern vehicles. I should just CAD up the brackets for motor swaps and the cavalier rack and sell them myself. Seems alot of people want them but PlyDo seems to be always MIA. Id leave the disc brake brackets alone as rustyhope already has that product covered. If anyone has the cavalier rack mount brackets or could take measurements let me know and ill fire up autocad and send them to the waterjet. I know alot of you hate the idea, and I can appreciate that, but im going to be putting an LS 6 litre chevy motor in my dodge. The car was given to me by my grandpa and I want to have both the speed and reliability of the new motor. As much as I can appreciate an all original car, I think at the same time the idea of putting a newer faster engine in the car embodies some of the original ideas behind hot rodding. Of course, we're not all here to hot rod these cars, and neither am I completely. Ill probably be keeping 90% of the car original with the exception being the drivetrain. Cheers!

Does anyone have pictures of the plydo conversion motor mounts? I can't seem to find any threads about motor swap with pictures in them. On a side note.....man are they hard to contact! Ive been calling everyday for the last week and I either get a busy signal, no answer, or picked up and hung up right away.

Half of Canada has a MANDATORY winter tire law. I pretty much sell a set of winter tires every second day lately.

Okay, bought a chrome water neck for a chevy V8. Bolt holes and outer shape are the exact same. However, the stock waterneck has a ridge in it for the large thermostat to sit in. This chevy one doesnt have a ridge because all the "v" style blocks from chev have the ridge built into the intake manifold rather than then water neck. So I bought a thermostat with the neck hoping I could make it fit. Unfortunately the thermostat is smaller and just falls into the head on my dodge? Any ideas?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3082/2328083638_5c11312dcd.jpg

If I have a factory neck that HAS the bypass, can I replace it with one that doesnt. I guess what im saying is, is the bypass neccassary? From what I understand it prevents hot spots in the motor before the thermostat opens. How important is that?

Beautiful! What are the firewall mounted objects? Coil and Remote Oil filter? *Edit: I think I see the coil mounted down low, so whats on the firewall? Vacuum can?

Woohoo! Congrats! I always find myself with problems where i dont want to remove certain items for troubleshooting (ie, starter) because it seems like too much work for a simple problem. Then when you finally do, the problem seems to pop up very quickly and it turns out being far less work than you intended.

He tried boosting the battery overnight with no luck. I agree tho, still sounds like a battery issue. Either that or my money is on the starter being toast or it's ground. The wire from the horn relay to the coil is just a daisy chain back to the ignition switch. It would be the same as running it straight to the ignition switch. Also, make sure you aren't confusing the voltage regulator and the horn relay, as the voltage reg also has 3 terminals. Not saying you are, but just throwing the comment out there to be sure. Back to the starter, for the amount of work it is, I would just pull the starter and bench test it. Then work backward from there.

If it is polished steel, would a clearcoat be enough to protect it from rust? Thanks for all the various info guys!