Bobacuda

Throttle linkage on top of the head. D1 E1 (?) carb. Numbers on other side are hard to read.

The numbers on the side of the block, by the dipstick.

The tools used to remove the rear hubs

Not counting a lot of PB Blaster, this is what it took to get the rear hubs off. Once I got the hub started coming off,I had to use the 3/4” impact socket to fit over the end of the axle, allowing me to totally pull the hub off with the puller. I took the brake shoes off to eliminate that problem in the future. Got a photo oh the engine number low on the block and the carb & linkage. But first, I need to go to the computer to shrink some photos so I can share them

Got lots of brake cleaner, PB Blaster, and an old Mother Mopar hub puller. Got a BFH, as well. Hope to not need a torch. Worse comes to worse, I have an old diff I could swap in, but I would rather not. Going to use my 3/4” socket and long breaker on the brake adjusters to totally “relax” the mechanics so that only the rust, or linings that have broken loose from the shoes are the problem. And this is just to drag it home. 🤪

I’ll try to get more numbers this week end - depends on weather and access to th last owner’s ranch. I remember the engine used to have a tag that said “Campbell Rebuilt,” or something like that. it looks like a car engine. To me. The throttle linkage connects to the top of the head, not to the back of the block. I’ll take some photos of that, as well, Right now, I still need to finish one rear drum removal and then do the other to be able to drag it home. Brakes are rusted to the drums.

Maybe the Internet Gods will allow me to post a photo of the engine number this time.

That is the number someone put on the engine. I’ll try to “shrink” the photo so I can post it later today. I know the folks I bought it back from. They have the title and are hunting it down.

Spent about 2 hrs getting the front hubs loose and another 3 hrs getting one of the rear half loose. Haven’t touched the other rear yet. Brake shoes are rusted to drums. On the brake adjust nuts, which direction loosens the shoes? And I know it got a rebuilt engine, but I suspect it was from a car and got a new number “tapped” on the block. It has the throttle linkage on top of the head. The number. appears it was tapped on with a center punch. And the file is larger than 3 MB, so I can’t post it. The number is T 2 19 960. So this tells me..?

9’ Box - One thing I am not short on is projects. I am in the the very final stage of gremlin chasing on the 67 Barracuda convertible. Meanwhile, the 54 Chevy wagon has its drivetrain in operating order. I won’t pull it apart till I am confident the Barracuda can leave the shop. After the Wagon, it will either be an e-body Barracuda (I have 2), or the 51 truck. BTW, truck originally had a blue cab and a black bed.

We had a 1951 Dodge 1/2 ton on the ranch when I was a kid. It’s the truck I learned to drive. In the ‘70’s, the truck was sold by uncle to a local kid that drove the wheels off of it, then parked it on their ranch. I found out that the truck has been sitting outside for the past 45 yrs. I got to talking to the current owner, and he agreed to sell it back to me - it needs everything. But, no major dents or rust throughs. For $400, I got another project, and this one has sentimental value. Now I have to lube the doors and hood to get them opening, break the brake shoes loose from the drums, and drag it home - only about a mile.

Brent - Good to hear you are making it to retirement. ? I retired about 6 yrs ago. I am busier now than I was when I was working full time. I still design septic systems for two installers that are my friends. No idea how I got everything done while I was working full-time. Bob

That would depend on the species of bear. A griz or a polar bear would outweigh a black bear… ?

The 50 model

the newer truck

Door tag was the only file less than 3MB. Wish I could show the rest. Maybe I can figure out a work around tomorrow.

And it says the photo files are too big and won’t let them load. Door tag on the ‘50

The SA PnP on Applewhite Rd. Not mine, no idea on prices or anything. I do know the Classic section is only open Sat-Sun, 9-12. I just want to alert anyone chasing parts. ‘54-‘55? (No idea) front sheet metal. Grille is not crunched. There is also a ‘50 1 ton. Nose and grille are gone. Everything else is there and not rusted to pieces or dented all to hell. Has all 4 split rims. Due to size, photos will take a couple of posts.

Filled the truck with gas about 10 miles from the house. Checked with rubber hose, way up near top. Due to its recent problems, I kept it running while I filled it. It was then I noticed it was dripping oil in the area that rear main seals leak - that was new. As I got near home, oil pressure dropped below 40 and would go down to about 10 or 20 at a fast idle- that was new. Parked in shed, can’t smell or see gas. Used the rubber hose and the gas was much lower. Oil is full on the dipstick, does not smell like gas, but looks and feels thinner than 40w. I am starting to think the fuel pump is leaking into the engine at speed. There, it thins the oil and either leaks out the rear main (or other seals), or is evaporated off. Other than that, I’m stumped. I have an old fuel pump to try next, as soon as I fix its “drift pin” issue. PITA.

Before I go the Roadkill method with the small gas can, I’m going to see how much difference fixing the weep in the fuel line makes. It’s possible the weep was stronger when driving 50 mph for several hours. Anyhow, the weep is fixed, the float was set correctly and the float’s needle valve is working properly.

Tank was empty. Put 4 g in, primed carb, it started. I gues. It is just trying to keep life interesting.

No large, observable leaks. I did find that small weep on the input side of the fuel pump. Can’t see anything obvious. Oil smells like oil - can’t smell gas in it. I’m going to reflare the steel line, reattach the brass fittings that allow the rubber hose to fuel pump and replace the rubber hose. After that, I am pulling the top off the carb and checking the float level (I noticed the top gasket was fuel soaked, but no major outside leaking.) Back to snipe hunting.