E37Bruco

Seems to be a trickle charger issue. Today it was 6.5v and started no issues. I load tested the battery first and if never dropped below 6v. I'll just have to find a better charger thankfully 😅 Oh is there any issue with the alternator putting out 7.2v? I figured that's fine since most 12v systems do up to 14.

With the clutch pushed in I can spin the fan and move the motor until compression builds.

Hey everyone, hope you all had a great summer. I really didn't get a whole lot done it was so nice so I enjoyed it on the boat instead of in the garage. Back to work on the body now. I'm starting to notice an issue getting her started. Not that she's been running a lot over the last 2 years but I never really had an issue cranking before. I have a grounding wire straight to the starter bolts. Both positive and negative are large gauge. The analog meter is still reading six volts but she will not crank. This truck remains on a battery tender 24/7 so I don't know why it won't crank. The starter was not rebuilt yet. Is there a way to load test a 6 volt battery? I didn't have a multimeter with me today to get a better reading but like I said the last two times that she would not crank she had at least six volts in the battery. Maybe a rebuilt starter would be less amp draw since she's not running long-term to recharge through the alternator. Yes it has an alternator not a generator.

I have been swamped in other projects. Finally got out driving today since redoing the rear two speed diaphragm shifter. Was probably the best I ever drove it. It shifted smoothly between the gears and the high-lows. Did not have any instances where it was trying to shift itself into high. We have begun disassembling everything to prepare for sandblasting.

Ok thanks. That seal should be here later next week. Then I can throw this all back together and road test it again for rear axle behavior. Otherwise we dive into body work!

I'm not sure when I'll be at the truck again but looking at the diaphragm cleaned up I found a seal where that barrel slides. Ordered a new Timken version of it 🤞 (480356). I'll still look to see if there's a seal between the shaft and that barrel.

That diaphragm was FULL lol but after cleaning everything up the rubber looks great. Sprayed it with some wd40, gonna eat it sit then some meguiars rubber conditioner There's a race that the shaft slides on. But I see no remnants of a seal on this side of the setup

Yeah I'm going to take this home and do it on my bench 😳

Oh fun hahaha But is oil present on the axle side of the diaphragm normal? Just seems weird if there's nothing preventing engine vacuum from pulling gear oil

Okay next time I'm there I'll pull that apart. The condition of the rubber hose and what I saw from that little inspection plug on top look like there was a good coating of oil all through the vacuum diaphragm assembly. If this is an issue do you believe I'd be able to send this shifting diaphragm to white post?

We are pretty focused on body work here now. Took some work to pull the rusted water tank out. I'm taking this opportunity to replace the rubber vacuum hose for the rear axle shift. When I pulled it I found gear oil inside it. I removed the little plug on top of the vacuum actuator and you can see everything in there has a residue of oil. Is this normal?

Lol I'm not there yet. Can't get downshifting figured out yet. I'm doing a lot better moving up the gears tho.

Look at you with factory fresh air lol

Is the threaded hole on the bottom solely for securing it to the firewall bracket? Just making sure that doesn't need plugged

This is the vavle I have. Not the Eaton one. Part number brought up a Ford one on eBay. There it showed the bottom port plugged. Mine isn't. (Photo is rotated sorry) mines intake vacuum on the left, to rear axle on the right, speedo adapter out the back. With the adjustments it's definitely an easier movement and can feel the click when pushed in. Drove it a little without issue but really need to get it up to higher speeds to test.