dgrinnan

I rarley drive my truck after dark. I took it out early this morning and notice my headlights are not very bright. My parking lights are dim also. Just a pail yellow glow. The truck has been re-wired and I know the first response to going to be check the ground. That is first on my list but if I have a good ground is this just normal for these light bulbs (specificailly the parking lights). Next option would be upgrade to LED, if they are avaiable in 6v. The front parking lights where converted to a dual filiment base. I wired my turn signal to them.

Where on the engine would be a good location to take a temperature reading? I have an after market temp guage mounted under my dash. It seems to show a normal operating temperature of 190. I do have a 180 degree thermostat. I want to check the accuracy or deviation of the temperature gauge.

I know this is an older post but DCM just started selling new aftermarket replacement pieces.

The truck sit for a week. I started it yesterday. Slow to start waiting for the fuel system to fill up but no problems with the battery. The short term assesment is a bad battery, not a phantom draw on the electrical system. A few starts after a period of sitting will confirm or point to a battery draw.

You need to check the amprege requirements of the Newport wiper motor. I can't speak to how well this unit will work for powering a wiper motor but I installed it to power a cigarette lighter style accessory plug so I can run 12v accessories such as a dash fan and a cell phone charger. It works well for those. It will support 10 amps. $25. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BQJ4G77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I agree with the "out of sight out of mind" thinking. Only my hair dresser knows.

I had some 2 inch angle iron laying around and needed to practice my welding skills (which are poor). I made a battery box that sits in the current location.

I stilll have the 6v system on my 47 WC. I have a bargain battery from Auto Zone and when the truck sits for several days or more it looses it charge and only has enough charge to crank the truck maybe 4-5 times before it drains. I have order an Optima 6v and I am hoping the solves the problem. Have any of you installed an Optima Redtop in the original battery tray under the floor? How did you secure it? Did you make a custom bracket?

After your post I did a sewarch and do see you can purchase inline sensors. Problem solved. Thanks,

The current light switch is built into the original MC. Not a separate piece. Are there available in line switches?

If you have upgraded your brakes using the 1992 Toyota Celica master cylinder, what did you do about brake lights. The original MC has a brake pressure switch to activate the brake lights. It does not appear the 1992 Toyota Celica master cylinder has one? In the picutes on the Auto Parts sites it show a wire going into the cap of the resevoir but I assume that is a low brake fluid sensor?

I know my original post was a while ago. I did have one follow up question before I actually do this. I have read the reason for using the 92 Toyota master cylinder is because it is a direct bolt in? No adpaters and reverse engineering needed? I know the line sizes are different but wanted to confirm the M/C just bolts in. What about the brake light switch. It is built into the original MC. Is there one in the Toyota MC?

Thanks. Hard to find.

Does the circled trim pieces have a specific name or are they just part of the grill trim. I have tried several searches for grill trim and only get results for the diamond shaped part that says dodge. I would like to locate a set to add to my 47 WC

I always drive with the truck in gear and clutch pedal depressed. I never heard that could cause wear or an issue. You never stop learning.