Carl-Gustav

I think I found them on FB ?

I've looked at their website and found the kit but I need to check with them about shipping... Can't find how to contact them ?? does anyone know?

Great pictures! Thanks ? Oh, I get it. They have screwed it on wrong so it should be turned so the dome is 9 o'clock, check! About the shield...that's more difficult but I'll see what I can do ? Need to find the number stamped on it so I can find the right kit... I believe it should read 590?! ?

The pump and surrounding is wet couse I cleaned it a little ? it's not leaking! As the coughing appears at a certain speed (44 mph) I'm quite sure it's not vapor lock...

It looks like mine...but I have the airdome on the other side ? maybe it doesn't matter? ... Do you know what kit I should buy to refurbish mine? ?

Hmm, there is no shield... I've been thinking of fixing one ?

Hello everyone! Ok, maybe it's a dumb question but I'm sure some of you will be able to give me an answer ? How do I figure out witch fuel pump I have on my New Yorker 47? ... I've been looking for rebuilding kits but I end up having different choices depending on brand of pump ? It all started after winter when I tryed to crank the engine but it didn't want to start. So I started with a check of the lines, carb and so on... The carb seemed faulty and leeky so I refurbished it. It still leeks(drips) from one place but not much. Then it seemed like the fuel didn't go all the way so I figured the pump didn't have the strength to pump and push up the fuel... I installed an electric one as a primer and a check valve - problem solved... I thought ? I went on a longer ride the other day and after a while the engine started coughing but if I used the electrical pump for a couple of seconds it worked fine again. I found that when speeding a little it had trouble getting enough fuel so I figure the mechanical pump is tired. Do you think my conclusion is correct? Best regards Carl ??

Yepp, I'm sure that I'm in high - never use low ? So third, shifts nicely to fourth (high) then close to stop down to third... But sometimes, when turning and going uphill I would like him to go to third but it stays in high and if I try the kickdown, nothing happens ?...

Thank you for the links but they are for the 49 Fluid Drive...I have a 47 - some difference. The interruptor switch only has one connector on mine and the same is for the solenoid. So, I think I have to be more specific with my questions: The transmission does change gears up an down as it should except when I try the kickdown function...then nothing happens, it stays in fourth (high). I get a signal when measuring on the carb (standing still but pushing the pistong) The other question is about the downhill assistance - when in high I can really feel the engine braking when I reliese the gas pedal...even on a straight flat road. Is it supposed to be so noticeable?!

Oh, I forgot another question ? I know there is a mechanical function in the transmission that assists going down hills and so... But when I'm in high (4th) and let release the throttle I can hear and feel a reduction of speed even on a flat road... That's how I know I'm in high to... Is this normal?

Hi there! So, I've red a couple of threads here about the Fluid Drive transm but haven't quite found the answer to my questions. Don't hate me for bringing this topic back and if you know these questions already have been answered, just let me know ? Ok, my transmission seems to work fine. I've tried all positions and it shifts like I believe it should do BUT, I can't get the kickdown to work... I measured directly on the carb by pushing the "button" all in and I get a closed sircuite on my multimeter. Any suggestions? I got to inspect the transm yesterday and found some disturbing things... Look at the pic and tell me what to do ? There was a mesh on the right hand top that I missed to shoot but it was really greasy and looked like clogged... Is that why some knocklehead has removed the lid on the side? ??... I guess it's to reduce heat... There is another lid, smaller, in the front of the transm that was open, hanging on one side on a rivet... impossible to put the rivet on the other side without removing the oil pan.

I'm looking out for a 6v gauge instead now ? Well, back to the question is that they wouldn't share grounds though the chassis and sender unit would get 6volt POS and the gauge would have 12volt +/-..... Unless I tried to isolate the sender completely for the 12volt neg ? feels a little risky don't you think?

You are right! Better safe then sorry ?

Why so confused? I thought it was crystal clear ? I get it, many of you don't think it's a good idea to mix 6 and 12 volts. Of course not but it's not easy to find the right gauges and sending units over here. You can probably go to the local farmacy and find something over there ?... But to find a 6volts Neg ground gauge and a sending unit that fits the original hole...hmmm.... ?.... Not interested in "new" stock from 1945 either... By the way, I always have 2 fire extinguishers and a "blanket" in the car at all times ?

Sure, I've seen them out there but as usual I have to order it from the states or China and costs me to much.... I'm trying a cheaper version...my plan is to have the 12V gauge in the glove compartment, don't have to see it all the time ? The old sending unit is getting out and the new one installed in the same hole, there of the grounding matter...

Hmmm.... Look at the drawing ? ... My question is basecly, what if I don't get it right and the new sensor ground (12V NEG) touches the tank/car that is grounded 6V POS?.....

Yes, I know that the sender measures ohms and the new gauge is for 12V. But the thing is that the sender has to be grounded according to the manual and I can't ground it to the vehicle or tank though they are POS 6V .... Do you follow my consern? ?

Hi ? Well, let's see what other members think of it ? I was thinking of putting a step up converter but as I already had a solar panel charger for 12V I tried it and it works amazingly well ? I have a BOSS MC900B car amp with built-in Bluetooth and usb-charger ? works really well.

Hi guys! Ok, this is a tough one for ya ? My Chrysler New Yorker has 6V positiv ground. My fuel gauge hasn't been working for years and I don't get the instructions in the manual for testing the gauge ? ... Old stuff, probably not going to work... So, I decided to install a 12V gauge and sender (I have a 12V battery in the back for the soundsystem)...BUT ? the tank is in contact with the car so it's grounded 6V positiv... Will the car and my house explode ? if the new 12V sender is grounded as instructed to NEG 12V and touches the POS 6V grounded tank?! Was this question fussy enough to make you confused? ? My plan is to isolate the sender as much as possible, even the screw holes though they will be grounded to the tank.... Any ideas or don'ts? By the way, I'm not planning to convert the whole car to 12V.... //Carl

So guys. The problem was apparently the flasher...new one but faulty ? Thx for the replys and support!

Good question ? I would like to know to ?

Thx to the new information I found were it says the make of the carburetor ??

So you see why it's so confusing? ? Thank you so much for the help. Now, I'll try to find a kit for it ?

Hmmm....so, Stromberg or Carter... Back to starting position ??... I'll look att the top in a little while then ?

I'll look into that. The only tags I've found so far are these... But they are in really bad shape.... Or just extremely dirty ?