desoto1939

Update on the Rebuild process:
 
Yesterday a good friend of mine and also a mechanic we disassembled my Autolite IGS 4102-c distributor. It is a very easy process, the only real issue that we had was grinding down the lower pin that hold the collar onto the shaft and then having to press it out of the unit.
 
We drove out the drive shaft with the use of a rawhide mallet so as to not damage the end of the shaft.  Used the factory miller tool to drive out the upper and lower bushings.
Cleaned the shaft and left the sprigs and weights still attached to the shaft.
 
Yes the factory bushing did have the lubrication holes drilled in the bushing. We remove the outer grease cup and cleaned that and the opening of any left over grease.
 
We decided that we would install both the upper and lower bushing with the tool. Then drilled out the holes and use the opening in the body of the grease cup to locate the holes. Used a 7/32 for the top hole and a 1/8 for the lower oil hole.
 
Cleaned the drive shaft looing for any wear marks and found none.  Insert the drive shaft town to check for any binding. we did find that there was some tightness when trying to go through the lower bushing. Also note we did rebuild two distributor and had the same issue with tightness on both.
 
We then had to ream the bushing with a 1/2 reamer coated with ATF fluid.  Make one pass and this removed the tightness and there was no slop felt or even seen. Installed the lower cup and used a 1/8 by 3/4 in long pin  to the secure the cup to the drive shaft.
 
Installed the breaker plate assembly and then used my Snap Gap tool to set the points to .020.  Checked each lobe and now each high point on the cam opened the oints to the proper opening of .020.
 
Still have to install the distributor but it is cold in my garage. Hope to finish this weekend.
 
It took us approx 1-2 hours to complete both distributors.  Another great learning process for me.
 
I am writing up an document on what we did and will try to attach it to this update.  It is still a work in progress.  If any one has questions feel free to contact me.
 
Rich hartung
desoto1939@aol.com 
 
Rebuild Autolite Distributor.docx

Basically all oil that is being sold in todays market, AutoZone, Walmart and other oil products sold on the web are detergent oil UNLESS the label states NON-DETERGENT.
 
If you read your owners manual for your older car most stated to use 20 weight oil in winter and 30 weight oil in Summer.  These oil were dinosour oils.
 
Todays products are better in design because of the better refining and the additives.
 
I currently use the Castrol Classic 20/50 weight oil in my rebuilt engine and is has one of the highest amt of ZDDP, Phosphorus and Boron in the mixture according to my discussion with the Castrol representative.
 
THe blue bottler Walmart store brand is produced and bottled at several processing plants in hte USA and this same company bottles and produces the various major other brands. 
 
So if your car has a filter, By-pass or other you are good to go. If not then I would install one on your car and start running the car with a filter. By-Pass is better then none at all.
 
The weight of the oil also depends on the age of the engine, condition od of the engine and where you are located and currently live in the USA.
 
As suggested aboe go to the webpage and read the article on oil and you will learn alot about the oils and how they have changed.
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com
 

go to the MOnroe shock webpage and do some searching on their site. I do know  do a search around the 1946 years.  All of the shocks that they say fit were good from approx 1939 up to in the 50's.
 
Since you have put on 17 inch tires do sure if this will affect the length of travel that you will need on the shocks.  Also you can get these shocks at good prices if you know the Monroe shock number. There is someone selling rear shocks a pair for over $300 on ebay that is highwasy robbery.  I got fonts for the 39 Desoto and they were MOnroes froma Napa store for arounf $37-40 each.  So I spent $75 and save $200 plus dollars and also shipping. So do your homework.
 
Also how much play to you have in the steeringbox? This might also need to be rebuilt. 
 
Also rebuilding the upper and lower control arm bushing will also improve the handeling along with the alignment.
 
Rich hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

with the coil in the firewall and the armored cable that connects to the back of the coil it sort of was an early theft prevention setup since would would have to cut the armored cable to jump the ignition wires.
 
They did find that this made it harder to start because of the extra length of wiring going to the dizzy. They then did move the coil down onto the bracket mounted on the side of the head.
 
Rich Hartung
desoto1939@aol.com

if you have the correct dist in your car which should be IGS4207-1 for a USA P15  or Canadian P15  the dist is model IGS4208b-1.
 
Both take the following Autolite parts:
Cap IGC-1107s
Rotor: IGS-1016B
Contact set IGP-3028ES
Condensor IG-3927G
Breaker Plate IGS-3004
 
The Standard or Bluestreak numbers are:
 
AL98  Rotor same as IGS-1016B
AL96  Dist Cap same as IG-1070s
 
You use the same components that I use on my 1939 desoto so from 1939-1948  the 6 cylinder mopar cars all used the same internal dist components. I like the Autolite parts since they were the original parts that MoPar put on the car.
 
Rich hartung
 

Yes the 20 amp glass fues is inserted into the metal housing that twist out of the base. Place the fuse into the hosuing and then insert it into the base and then twist the hosuing and it attaches via the two tabs.
 
Have this on my 1939 desoto.
Pep48  I live near King off Prussia
 
Rich Hartung
desoto1939@aol.com

The difference between the two shaft lengths is that the blocks are probably different sizes. The Chrysler is the 25 inch block and head and the Plymouth is the 23 inch block and head.
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

I would purchase the spare carb for that price and then have a machine shop pull the old brass rod and then install a new rod and then have a spare throttle body.  $20 is cheap for a carb and then youcan play with th eold carb and get some education on how it all works.
 
Just my $20 worth of input.
Rich hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

The dimmer switch might have corrosion on the contact points. Press the dimmer switch several times to clean the contacts.
 
Check the fuse for the light switch might be blown.
 
Go to the headlight junction block and use a test lamp to see if you have current flowing to the connection block.
 
If you have power to this section then your lights might be toast. Pull a headlight bulb disconnect the wire connecter then test with a 6 volt battery charger to see if they light up. If they light up then check each connecter at the base of the bulb to see if you have current flowing to the socket.  Also could be a grounding issue or maybe the bulbs are bad.
 
Just basic diagnostic procedures.
 
Rich hartung
desoto1939@aol.com

LOTS of cars had dealer applied body undercoating to help prevent rust through of the fenders and rocker panels.
 
BUT, they then found out that this was causing more issues and rust and holes.  What was happening is then when a rock hit the metal in the fender well it then nicked the underside of the rust proofing material and then made a small hole.
 
So if you lived in the Rust Belt area and they used salt to treat the roads the brine mixture would then be splashed up and then seep into the hole and then colect again st the metal body and then start the rusting process and the car owner never knew what was happening.
 
When they came up with the galvanized fenders and body metal this prolonged the life of the body panels to prolong the issue of premature rust out.  Chrysler was an real inventor to the galvanized panels on their Caravan's. 
 
Since we do not drive our cars in the winter with the salt issue I would scrap off al of the old under coating and then apply a good coat of PORS on the metal.
 
We have also discovered that when people put bed liners in their pickup trucks the water and moisture would get under the liner and then when the owner took off the liner the entire bed area was rusting, same issue again with moisture.
 
Just my input.
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com
 
 

Below is some info on the distributor lead wires and sizes this was taken from my Echlin catalog. It tells the lead wire number and the then the picture of each wire and length. The part number in ( ) is the autolite part number on the wire picture.
 
Rich Hartung
desoto1939@aol.com
 

 

Update from my friend with the 39 DeSoto.
 
As per all of the input from everyone and i forwarded it to him. They primed the oil pump and reinstalled the pump and was able to get oil pressure and gas up to the carb.
 
Thanks for all of your help for my friend that lives near York, PA.
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

who was the glass company that stood by great work ethic and sent you the replacement glass?
 
This is the type of company that us car owners would like to do business with because of the way they handled your issue.
 
Hopeyou put in a good word for this compnay.
 
Rich hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com 

If you have the drop in filter element I use a wixx 51010 filter and have been using this in my AC canister for 30+ years or a NAPA 1010 gold.  These are the same filters. Wixx produces filter for NAPA.
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

your typical green AF is good for around 3 years when it has been installed in your engine block. Also read the instructions on the back of the bottle.. Binster put the AF in the block and keep it inthe block over the winter. It will last for a long time.
 
Rich

This is a very special fitting and a bubble flare fitting might work, but the nut that screws into the back of the oil guage is also very special it is not your standard 24 pitch thread if I remember correctly it is 27 thread, yes 27.  Lots of the older dodge truck up into the mid 50's used the same fitting and nut.
 
DO NOT discard the brass nut or you will not beable to find this fitting.
 
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

Regular brake fluid will eat all paints.  If I remember correctly that DOT3 brake fluid is made from the crushed shells of the Almond or might be Pecan shells.  The acid in these shells is why you never see these peanuts in the shells. If you touched the outer shell with your bare hands or fingers the acid will burn your skin.
 
DOT5 brake fluid will not eat paint but the other brake fluids will eat your paint.  Even with DOT 5 you still should be careful near any painted surfuaces.
 
Rich Hartung

Here is inf on wheel cylinders from my EIS brake catalog:
 

 
Rich hartung

I would like to inform everyone that all 3 sets of these tools have been sold and are going to several MoPar owners.
 
If I come across any more I will repost the tools.
 
Rich Hartung

Here isa picture of the carb gasket in cork.  Rich Hartung
 

 

As stated by speedster that tiny plug was taken out and the factory miller timing light was put on and there was a rod that went down to the piston and when the piston came back up it would corollate to having the lining on the harmonic balancer at TDC and also for timing the engine.
 
To set the timing on these cars it is suggested to use number 6 sparkplug wire and not number one, but either can be used. Everyone that has a service manual should read through their specific car model manual. You will be surprised at what you will learn about your car.
 
Chrysler was very innovative about their engines.
 
Rich Hartung

Yes you could make the tool but also consider the time, metal and also not knowing all of the correct measurements.  This is the venturi tube removed that has to be perfect fit so as to not bend or ruin the venturi tube when doing a remove and replace in your BB and Carb.
 
My best suggestion if to purchase the tool and have the correct tool for the B&B carb rebuild.  Factory tools are alwasy better that had made tools.
 
Rich Hartung

You should be ok I have the same on my 39 Desoto and just use the rubber gasket that seals the lid.  Make sure you runthe car after the complete installation to make sure you have a complete seal at the lid so that you will not leak any oil from the lid.
 
Rich Hartung

I install two of the heater shut off vales, one at the back of the block and the other one at the top of the waterpump where the metal elbow would be installed.
 
reason:  I now can completely control the flow of water thru the heater. I can shut off the entire flow of water and if if did have a leak in the heater core the was from the engine will not flow to the heater core. Also when you have to remove the heater as such in your situation the only water I have to worry about is what is the two rubber hoses leading to the heater. I can then darin them individually and then the only water would be what is contained in the heater core. Make life easier to maintain the flow of water. Always put some form of antisieze on the thread of the shut off valves.
 
Rich Hartung

first go to your parts book if you have one. If not then get one becasue this is one of the basic books you will need for your truck.
 
Look up the part number and send it to me I have a MoPar  basic  nuts and bolts catalog that breaks down the basic parts by their MoPar numbers and then if your part is inthe book I can then determine the nut size and threads.
 
Rich
Desoto1939@aol.com