desoto1939

if you have the correct dist in your car which should be IGS4207-1 for a USA P15  or Canadian P15  the dist is model IGS4208b-1.
 
Both take the following Autolite parts:
Cap IGC-1107s
Rotor: IGS-1016B
Contact set IGP-3028ES
Condensor IG-3927G
Breaker Plate IGS-3004
 
The Standard or Bluestreak numbers are:
 
AL98  Rotor same as IGS-1016B
AL96  Dist Cap same as IG-1070s
 
You use the same components that I use on my 1939 desoto so from 1939-1948  the 6 cylinder mopar cars all used the same internal dist components. I like the Autolite parts since they were the original parts that MoPar put on the car.
 
Rich hartung
 

Yes the 20 amp glass fues is inserted into the metal housing that twist out of the base. Place the fuse into the hosuing and then insert it into the base and then twist the hosuing and it attaches via the two tabs.
 
Have this on my 1939 desoto.
Pep48  I live near King off Prussia
 
Rich Hartung
desoto1939@aol.com

The difference between the two shaft lengths is that the blocks are probably different sizes. The Chrysler is the 25 inch block and head and the Plymouth is the 23 inch block and head.
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

I would purchase the spare carb for that price and then have a machine shop pull the old brass rod and then install a new rod and then have a spare throttle body.  $20 is cheap for a carb and then youcan play with th eold carb and get some education on how it all works.
 
Just my $20 worth of input.
Rich hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

The dimmer switch might have corrosion on the contact points. Press the dimmer switch several times to clean the contacts.
 
Check the fuse for the light switch might be blown.
 
Go to the headlight junction block and use a test lamp to see if you have current flowing to the connection block.
 
If you have power to this section then your lights might be toast. Pull a headlight bulb disconnect the wire connecter then test with a 6 volt battery charger to see if they light up. If they light up then check each connecter at the base of the bulb to see if you have current flowing to the socket.  Also could be a grounding issue or maybe the bulbs are bad.
 
Just basic diagnostic procedures.
 
Rich hartung
desoto1939@aol.com

LOTS of cars had dealer applied body undercoating to help prevent rust through of the fenders and rocker panels.
 
BUT, they then found out that this was causing more issues and rust and holes.  What was happening is then when a rock hit the metal in the fender well it then nicked the underside of the rust proofing material and then made a small hole.
 
So if you lived in the Rust Belt area and they used salt to treat the roads the brine mixture would then be splashed up and then seep into the hole and then colect again st the metal body and then start the rusting process and the car owner never knew what was happening.
 
When they came up with the galvanized fenders and body metal this prolonged the life of the body panels to prolong the issue of premature rust out.  Chrysler was an real inventor to the galvanized panels on their Caravan's. 
 
Since we do not drive our cars in the winter with the salt issue I would scrap off al of the old under coating and then apply a good coat of PORS on the metal.
 
We have also discovered that when people put bed liners in their pickup trucks the water and moisture would get under the liner and then when the owner took off the liner the entire bed area was rusting, same issue again with moisture.
 
Just my input.
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com
 
 

Below is some info on the distributor lead wires and sizes this was taken from my Echlin catalog. It tells the lead wire number and the then the picture of each wire and length. The part number in ( ) is the autolite part number on the wire picture.
 
Rich Hartung
desoto1939@aol.com
 

 

Update from my friend with the 39 DeSoto.
 
As per all of the input from everyone and i forwarded it to him. They primed the oil pump and reinstalled the pump and was able to get oil pressure and gas up to the carb.
 
Thanks for all of your help for my friend that lives near York, PA.
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

who was the glass company that stood by great work ethic and sent you the replacement glass?
 
This is the type of company that us car owners would like to do business with because of the way they handled your issue.
 
Hopeyou put in a good word for this compnay.
 
Rich hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com 

If you have the drop in filter element I use a wixx 51010 filter and have been using this in my AC canister for 30+ years or a NAPA 1010 gold.  These are the same filters. Wixx produces filter for NAPA.
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

your typical green AF is good for around 3 years when it has been installed in your engine block. Also read the instructions on the back of the bottle.. Binster put the AF in the block and keep it inthe block over the winter. It will last for a long time.
 
Rich

This is a very special fitting and a bubble flare fitting might work, but the nut that screws into the back of the oil guage is also very special it is not your standard 24 pitch thread if I remember correctly it is 27 thread, yes 27.  Lots of the older dodge truck up into the mid 50's used the same fitting and nut.
 
DO NOT discard the brass nut or you will not beable to find this fitting.
 
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

Regular brake fluid will eat all paints.  If I remember correctly that DOT3 brake fluid is made from the crushed shells of the Almond or might be Pecan shells.  The acid in these shells is why you never see these peanuts in the shells. If you touched the outer shell with your bare hands or fingers the acid will burn your skin.
 
DOT5 brake fluid will not eat paint but the other brake fluids will eat your paint.  Even with DOT 5 you still should be careful near any painted surfuaces.
 
Rich Hartung

Here is inf on wheel cylinders from my EIS brake catalog:
 

 
Rich hartung

I would like to inform everyone that all 3 sets of these tools have been sold and are going to several MoPar owners.
 
If I come across any more I will repost the tools.
 
Rich Hartung

Here isa picture of the carb gasket in cork.  Rich Hartung
 

 

As stated by speedster that tiny plug was taken out and the factory miller timing light was put on and there was a rod that went down to the piston and when the piston came back up it would corollate to having the lining on the harmonic balancer at TDC and also for timing the engine.
 
To set the timing on these cars it is suggested to use number 6 sparkplug wire and not number one, but either can be used. Everyone that has a service manual should read through their specific car model manual. You will be surprised at what you will learn about your car.
 
Chrysler was very innovative about their engines.
 
Rich Hartung

Yes you could make the tool but also consider the time, metal and also not knowing all of the correct measurements.  This is the venturi tube removed that has to be perfect fit so as to not bend or ruin the venturi tube when doing a remove and replace in your BB and Carb.
 
My best suggestion if to purchase the tool and have the correct tool for the B&B carb rebuild.  Factory tools are alwasy better that had made tools.
 
Rich Hartung

You should be ok I have the same on my 39 Desoto and just use the rubber gasket that seals the lid.  Make sure you runthe car after the complete installation to make sure you have a complete seal at the lid so that you will not leak any oil from the lid.
 
Rich Hartung

I install two of the heater shut off vales, one at the back of the block and the other one at the top of the waterpump where the metal elbow would be installed.
 
reason:  I now can completely control the flow of water thru the heater. I can shut off the entire flow of water and if if did have a leak in the heater core the was from the engine will not flow to the heater core. Also when you have to remove the heater as such in your situation the only water I have to worry about is what is the two rubber hoses leading to the heater. I can then darin them individually and then the only water would be what is contained in the heater core. Make life easier to maintain the flow of water. Always put some form of antisieze on the thread of the shut off valves.
 
Rich Hartung

first go to your parts book if you have one. If not then get one becasue this is one of the basic books you will need for your truck.
 
Look up the part number and send it to me I have a MoPar  basic  nuts and bolts catalog that breaks down the basic parts by their MoPar numbers and then if your part is inthe book I can then determine the nut size and threads.
 
Rich
Desoto1939@aol.com

I prefer the gates model that has the sealed beaing instead of the old bronze two bushings the bushings are the part that goes bad when the get out of round because of the impleer shaft.  To rebuild you can call Art Gould in Upper NY.
 
If you look at PartsGeeks .com com you can get a new wp for around 70 dollar.  They use the gates wp and I called Gates and they switched over to all sealed WP for our cars.  The original wp that you have in your probably was replaced at one point so you might not have the original Wp that came with the car.  If you are having your car jusdge they do not look to determne if original only if it look period correct.
 
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

Do not use a grease gun it will put tooooo much grease behindg the bearing and then force grease out the seal into the backing plate and then onto the brake shoes.  Thke a small amount of grease and new grease is ok  about a thumb sise and then push the grease into the hole do this maybe twice then put the bolt back in.  Over greasing will cause issues. It should tell you in your service manual.
 
Rich Hartung
desoto1939@aol.com

OK here is your answer to the tie rod ends
 
Passenger side use the ES 60 Right and left   Right is closest to the tire the left is closest to the pitman control
Driver side uses ES131 Right and Left   Right goes to the side of the pitman control  the Left goes to the side of the left tire
 
The numbers that I have listed were used across all manufacturers.
 
 
Rich Hartung
Desoto1939@aol.com

Hvae you used either the Ammco brake tool or the miller brake tools to set the arch of the shoes to the drum. It sounds as if you have not done the major brake adjustment or if you did it is not correct.
I have the Ammco Brake tool.
Rich HArtung
Desoto1939@aol.com