DonaldSmith

On my 47 DeSoto, the tie rods connect to the pitman arm with this odd fitting, with resilient sleeves, to provide some vibration isolation, versus Plymouth's resilient-mounted steering box.   At one point I installed some Steele rubber sleeves, which deteriorated.  So I cut some copper and plastic pipe pieces, cobbled some washers, etc., and made it work.     
 

Inner rod from throttle fast idle cam. 
Outer rod from Sisso choke.
 

Because I started this thread, the system wants me to indicate which response was most helpful or offered "the" solution. 
So each post has a green box "(check mark) Mark as Solution".   I'm getting tired of seeing that prompt. 
Maybe I'll mark the next post, or go back and select one at random.   I would have a hard time picking the best response, they've been so good.   

I've got to imagine that 6v and 12v sockets are different, considering the many years cars of both voltages were commmon and they didn't want a lighter of the wrong voltage to damage the socket.  
If you need a 12v socket for your lights, get one at the local auto store.  

I think the only reason Ma Mopar grounded the solenoid post to the generator was to prevent the starter from cranking while the engine waas runnning.   
So forget the generator/alternator as a groud.  Ground the post to a good ground on the engine block, like maybe a bolt holding the oil filter on. 
 
(Additional thought:  I had grounded the post to the bolt holding the solenoid to the starter, but I figured that it had surfaces where the ground could be compromised by paint, dirt, etc.   So I am grounding the wire to one of the bolts holding the oil filter on.  I am working on fixing a leak in the oil filter plumbing, so I will have a good opportunity to make sure the surfaces at the bolt will be clean.  (And I believe in start washers, to cut through the crud.) 

"Dash to Instrument Panel Brace"?  (They note the instrument panel, but what/where  is the dash?)  This is for a 602 radio, but the same idea.
 

 
 
 

Here are photos of my installation, 6-volt, positive ground. 
 
Ignitor in distributor:  Remove the points, condenser and wires.  The eccentric screw (to the right of the igniter) interferes with the igniter.  Cut back the igniter base or the screw.  The igniter has two little studs that fit in the screw holes for the points.  The two igniter wires have to fit where the one wire came in.  I cut out part of the grommet for the wires.   The black wire goes back to the ignition switch.  The white wire goes to the negative (-) post of the coil.  The positive (+) post has a wire going to chassis ground or battery (+) post. 
 

 
Now, I have the M-5 semi-automatic transmission, so I was concerned with providing the ignition interruption for the shifting.  I called Pertronix.  They said, put a 7-ohm, 5-watt resister in the circuit from the PRI (primary) contact of the transmission relay to the negative (-) post of the coil.  this shorts out the ignition for the shifting, without frying the igniter. 
 
I found a 7-ohm, 12.5 watt resistor from Mouser Electronics, an RH0107R000FC02, 3 bucks plus 7 bucks for shipping.  I checked with Pertronix and they said that 12.5 watt would be OK.
 
So I have two wires coming out of the distributor, the black to ignition and the white-black to the (-) post of the coil.
I have two wires to the (-) post of the coil, the white-black wire from the igniter in the distributor, and the wire from the 7-ohm resistor in the circuit back to the PRI post of the transmission relay.   
I have one wire from the (+) post of the coil to ground. 
 

 
A picture is worth a thousand words, but some photos need a few words to explain what's going on.   The (+) post to the left at the top has one wire to ground.  The (-) post has the thin white-black wire from the igniter and the wire to the resistor and transmission relay.  The resistor is mounted on the frame, on a heat sink.   Below the coil the thin black wire to ignition is somewhat visible.   (My photo got rotated from the position I wanted, sort of looking over the fender.  I hate it when that happens.)

The coils are for limiting the speed of the three-speed fan. 
 
My Uncle Arthur drove a 30's car through the 50's, then bought a compact 60's Chevy. His comment:
 
"Two-speed wipers, three-speed fan, don't know what a fella needs all that for."