wiboater

I know the new fuel makes vapor lock worse. I just read fuel starts to vapor lock as low as 100 F. I did put one of those heat shields down by the Mechanical pump but I still got vapor lock. The temp at the carburetor bowl gets as high as 140 F on a hot 90 plus day. The heat is radiating up from that exhaust manifold. Since my radiator is running at or close to 200 degrees the air going accross is probably that hot. So far as long as I turn on the electric fuel pump it seems to be ok. If I can find one or buy some phenolic material I plan to add a spacer between the intake and the carb to help with heat trans fer there. Maybe once the engine is broken in things will level off and temps will be lower in summer. Runs great now that it's winter here.

I actually took off the exhaust manifold and fixed the heat riser It was stuck in the non heating position so it wasn't the problem. Even with the 160 thermostat in the truck the heat gauge gets up to around 200. but stops there. Temp when I put the Infrared heat gun at the thermostat housing is Ok . It's the exhaust manifold that seems to me to be getting too hot. I don't have any problem with the 230 I took out and put into a 38 Dodge Pickup I don't have vapor locking and that manifold runs cooler. I put the engine on the 36 together when I had it rebuilt and I am pretty sure I checked the water distribution tube at that time. I also think I put a new water pump on it then but can't say for sure ( old and forgetful now). I did get the high reading at the carb bowl and I took the carb apart once and watched the bubbles in the fuel bowl when I removed the top of the carb. Are you talking about the aluminum spacer they had? I think it's on there but I will have to look. I want to put a Phenolic spacer on about 1/2 inch thick or more and try that but have to find one first that doesn't cost a fortune. I don't think that the muffler is restricting flow because I have plenty of power and the truck starts and runs great . Just doesn't like hot weather. Anyway i was hoping maybe someone else had the same problem and solved theirs. I won't be able to try anything now because of cold weather here. I appreciate the ideas though. I am a little suspicious of the water pump but the temps seem consistent on the engine block.

I have a 36 dodge LC pickup with a 1942 power wagon block that I had rebuilt, bored out, new pistons and valves etc. It starts and runs great and has plenty of power but I now have a problem with the carbureator bowl getting so hot that the fuel in it boils. When I checked temps with a heat temp gun it said around 500 degrees on the exhaust manifold and I think it was about 140 at the carb bowl. This happens in summer in hot temps. I have put an electric fuel pump on to solve it but seems like it shouldn't be getting that hot. No problem with the radiator overheating and I checked timing and valve clearance etc. those are ok. no exhaust restrictons. Any Idea's or is that a normal temp now that it's bored out? I've had the truck since the early 70's and had a 1949 dodge 230 in it before and never had vaporlock problems with it before the engine overhaul with the powerwagon block.

I've been doing some welding on my 1936 Dodge pickup. I have 6 mounting bolts on the front two bolts on each side there are springs . I think that I had taken the bolts out on the back of the cab at one time years ago and just put regular bolts in. Anyway I am asking if anyone knows if there are supposed to be springs on the back two bolts also? I have read where some people said the left front is not supposed to have a spring but mine did.

Here's the 38 after a lot of welding and some paint.

Here's one I started with. Still not done on it yet. I have the grille but it was crumbling rusty.

wouldn't it still fit backwards though?

Anyone know the reason the holes on the flywheel are drilled so it will only fit on in one position? Just curious. I can see if it were balanced on the engine at the factory but if you replaced one it would be different.

I called the guy I got the engine from and he found a flywheel for a 230 he had. It was thinner and now the clutch fits fine. Transmission is back in etc. Thanks for the info about the clutch differences.

anyone know the dimensions on the 230 Ci. flywheel ? Thickness where it bolts on. and from there to the face. Just thinking about maybe taking a 218 flywheel in and having a machine shop take some material off to make it a 230 flywheel.

I pulled the Bellhousing off of a 1938 Dodge RC 218 engine, 25 inch block. The bellhousing is different on the transmission side They gave more room for the clutch plate. I Took some pictures , will try and post them later. You are probably right about the flywheels though too. The one that I had in the 36 I had replaced a while back. The one that came out of the truck was thicker on the block side . I'll have to measure them tomorrow. Anyway I should be ok now with the 218 bellhousing having more room inside at the top. I did just realize though I would have to use a 37 or 38 transmission though because the 36 has the shifter moved forward. It sits on part of the bellhousing. I'm trying to find a different flywheel now.

I'm putting a 1946 power wagon engine in a 36 Dodge pickup. The crank was different. Had 8 holes instead of 4 and is slightly longer. maybe 3/16 to 1/4 inch. So the clutch won't fit in the bellhousing now that was on the 36. I have an old 218 engine (25 inch block) and bell housing from a 38 Dodge pickup. I measured and the 38 bellhousing has more room inside for the clutch. Everything else looks like it will fit. So I'll be switching them.

Ok , I'm putting together an engine I had rebuilt. Guy I bought it from said it came out of a powerwagon. 230 engine, Crank had 8 holes my old engine had 4 hole crank. Now after just trying to put the clutch back in I discovered the crank flange is about 3/16 to 1/4 inch farther back. Is it possible to have the flywheel machined out enough to make it the same distance as the old one? Or possibly making a spacer between the bell housing and engine to move it ahead 3/16? I have a spare old flywheel that needs refacing. The truck is a 36 Dodge LC

Sorry about the wrong title. I edited it so it' right. I was asking about the cams but not a big deal. I just had an engine rebuilt and have it together now with the old camshaft. I think the difference might be the size at the end where the Timing gear goes on.