Nigel Bailey

Thanks; yes I will explore the engine/clutch housing/gearbox alignment situation, but I definitely feel it's internal, much as I'd like it to be otherwise. I've since been in touch with the specialist who rebuilt the gearbox, and the car will be going back to them in the near future for some investigation/rectification.

Me too!

Thanks yes; I've belatedly remembered that the engine mounts were all renewed as part of the overhaul, as the old ones were fairly worn. Although now 'correct', there may have been some compensating adjustments done over time as the mounts deteriorated, or perhaps the alignment of the engine/clutch housing etc is not quite right? Another avenue for investigation-thanks!

Thanks!

Penrite Transoil T90, which is the same as the SAE 90 Gear Oil listed in my service manual.

Hi all, seeking advice from the brains trust! I have an intermittent issue with second gear (both changing up first-second or changing down third-second) where the gear either won't engage, or will pop out). After various attempts to adjust the linkage the gearbox was pulled, disassembled and professionally rebuilt by a trusted repairer with all new internals, and a good 'old school' mechanic has had a couple of goes at adjusting the shift linkage since, but the problem still persists. First, Third and Reverse slot in perfectly. The advice I've had here in Oz is possibly too much float/end play in the second gear set, or possible misalignment between the gearbox and clutch housing-I believe there are shims for the latter? I took the car out for a drive yesterday and found that if I held onto the shifter for a few seconds after making the change that it would generally stay in second. I'm really trying to avoid pulling the 'box again and sending it back to the repairer for checking, as the logistics for this are involved, but I seem to be running out of options. This is driving me nuts and spoiling what is otherwise a great drive-any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Hi all, some months ago I picked the brains of this Forum for my stock 1948 Dodge D25, and can now report on the results. The car now has Moog CC850 coils in the front and the rear leaves reset by a local guy here in Oz, and I couldn't be happier! The CC850's appear to give what I would regard as a 'standard ride height' from back in the day, and the transformation in the car's ride and particularly steering (due to less roll at the front) is far better than I'd hoped for (the car has standard 15 x 4.5" rims and 6.70 cross plies). For anyone running a similar 'stocker' I can definitely confirm that you will have a 'standard' look-no need to cut down the coil unless you want to lower-that does not sit too high, and drives beautifully. Thanks for the great advice from the Forum! Cheers, Nigel Bailey

Thanks Andy-hope you are going well down in Grafton! I reckon there'd be a fair bit of weight in those old flatheads too!

Thanks Sniper-this has been really helpful. Looks like I might be going down the Aerostar route after all...

Thanks-very helpful!

Ok, so I have read the numerous and very helpful and informative discussions in the archive on this topic, but trying to get a definitive answer to a specific question. I've just got my 1948 Dodge D25 registered and back on the road here in Australia-standard motor, brakes, suspension, 6.70 x 15 cross plies etc. All of the aforementioned either reconditioned or in good condition except (probably) the springs, which appear to be original. My plan is replace the front coils with either the standard item from Andy Bernbaum, or the Moog CC850, and then get a local specialist here in Oz to re-temper/replace the rear leaves to match for a level ride height. The aim is to achieve whatever a 'standard' ride height would have been when the car was new; I realise that my car is probably not at this now, and the rear leaves in particular look to have sagged slightly. So my question is: Will the Moog coils (which are a lot cheaper, and variable rate to boot) have the car riding lower, the same, or higher at the front than fitting 'original' coils from Andy B? The one thing I definitely do not want is a lower ride height. I get that the Moog free height is shorter than an original coil, but perhaps the variable rate means the installed height is similar? With the exchange rate the way it is, and the cost of shipping to Australia, I don't really want to experiment with different coils. Any advice would be greatly appreciated-my gut feeling is to go with the originals unless I could confirm for sure that the CC850's would slot right in without a loss in ride height. Sorry for the long-winded explanation-thanks! Nigel

Well, over 2 years later and yes @maddmaxx1949 a new clutch and re-adjustment of the free-play did the trick! Sorry for the update delay-in February 2022 the mighty Dodge was submerged up to its roofline in Brisbane's flooding, and is only now back in one piece and finally (almost) ready for registration! The aim is to have it back on the road, for the first time in probably 20 years, before Christmas. Cheers, Nigel

Sorry to hear that Keith. I'd wish I'd seen your video earlier-things sometimes take a while to surface here in Oz, but the people on this Forum are always informative and helpful! I've had my own unsatisfactory experience with the retailer you mention, but I'll leave it at that.

Thanks Steve!

Yep Bingster; looks to be identical to the one Mopar Pro (and possibly others too) are selling: https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/g_service_brakes/brake-adjusting-tools-for-mopar-drum-brakes/

Thanks Rich!

Hi all, I am attempting to set up the brake linings on my 1948 D25 Dodge for a more concentric fit inside the drum, using one of the Andy Bernbaum adjustment tools. I get the process, and the need to adjust the cam at the heel end of each shoe with the drum off. Now this may well be a stupid question, but I assume I need to slacken off the anchor bolt nuts on the backing plate before I can adjust these? I've only ever done the 'minor' adjustment at the toe end of the shoe before with the drum still on, and I'm finding the cam on the anchor bolt for the heel of the each shoe is very tight and difficult to adjust much. Thanks in advance for any advice as I learn my way around the old girl-after a few hiccups along the way, she should hopefully be registered and back on the road in a couple of months!

Thanks Sam-yep, the recommendations from over here in Oz have also been the Facet 'Cube' pumps, either model 40104 or 40105, so it looks like I have a way forward now! By the look of that engine bay pic, you've got a dual master cylinder conversion (extended pushrod through the old one to a Wilwood?) with external reservoirs and a modern spin on oil filter. Nice!

Thanks for the help Sam! I now believe the psi should be more like 2-5 psi; this has given me something to go on. Cheers, Nigel

Hi all, I'm looking for advice on a suitable 12V electric fuel pump that will replace the mechanical pump on my near standard 218 (25" block). It has a Langdon's HEI distributor and is 12V/neg earth, but everything else is pretty much standard. Pump will be mounted near fuel tank; my understanding is that it should be in the vicinity of 4-7 psi, but I'm not sure of the suggested flow rate? Pump will be sourced here in Australia for my 1948 D25 Dodge, so any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with 'generator-look' alternators such as Powermasters' Powergen (I believe the correct model for me would be the 82112) or Don Allen's Gener-Nator? I have a 1948 Dodge D25 (think 218 Plymouth P15 with a 25" block), which will be converted to 12V/negative earth/alternator, once it recovers from being submerged in the recent floods here in Brisbane ☹️ . I like the idea of using the original case as in the Gener-Nator, but it is over twice the price of the Powergen. I would prefer to use something like these, as opposed to a 'modern look' alternator. Any thoughts from anyone who had experience with either would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Nigel

Thanks chrysler1941 and Rich!

Hi all, the attached photo shows a new firewall grommet for the throttle pedal shaft for my D25 Dodge. Am I correct in assuming that the protrusion faces forward in the direction of travel, like in the photo, so that on the inside of the car the grommet is virtually 'flush' with the kickboard? Cheers, grommet pic.docx Nigel

Hi maddmaxx, I have currently got the Dodge off the road as my 'freshen up' has turned into more of a 'rolling restoration'. Currently also have the pedals removed, as the brake master cylinder is off for overhaul. I did manage to get a slightly earlier take-up by adjusting the free-play, however the next step will probably be having a go at the departure gap as Sniper suggested. I also have a new clutch disc ready to go in should investigations reveal too much wear. Will keep you posted when I get back to the clutch! Cheers, Nigel