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I was getting ready to install the new ignition switch and reinstall the plugs and realized that the oil filter housing is missing. Don't ask me how I missed it, I guess I assumed it was down lower based on more modern cars. I can see a discoloration where it should have been located and the mounting screws were there but loose. The coil appears to be mounted on one of the bolts where the filter would go but it looks like it could flip around and mount above the distributor. I called the guy and he was up near the school so I drove up there this morning. There was an oil filter housing laying on the floor on the side of the truck where the oil filter housing would have been connected to the engine so I assumed that was it and drove back home (got the missing wheel cover too). Didn't see the oil lines, unfortunately. The bolt pattern on the mounting bracket matches the tapped holes and screws on the head (I have it sitting upside down in the photo) so it should mount just fine. However, looking at the illustrations the "oil filter" section of the flathead tech links and the photo of the other 54 he had for sale, this one does not look like any of those. It had a FRAM C3 canister filter in it and the NAPA 1071 that was listed for the 54 C-1 6 cylinder looks like it is the same size as the C3 and fits in the housing. I think I read somewhere that some trucks had filters added later so maybe this was an aftermarket add on? Any ideas? The oil pressure gauge is connected directly to one of the galley plugs mentioned in the flathead tech links so it should work but I'd like to get a filter in there. Thanks

I pulled the plugs last night and put some MMO in the cylinders. The existing plugs were Autolite B5's with electrodes in good condition, looks like these are fairly old plugs based on a web search. They all looked the same in each cylinder, black and dry which I assume is carbon fouling. My replacement ignition cylinder with key should be here this weekend and I'll try to get some new plugs by then as well. Hopefully I'll have some time to work on it.

Thanks! Not sure how I missed that link, thought I had scoured all of them.

I also have been using Wix (or NAPA, made by Wix) filters for a long time. I was really disappointed to find out that the most recent NAPA filters I bought for the Kawasaki water cooled V twins in the John Deeres were made in China. Didn't have a box, either. Just a piece of plastic shrink wrapped over the business end. I was disappointed when the Fleetguard filters I use on the Cummins were coming fron Mexico a few years ago but I guess that's the way of the world. Speaking of global sourcing, in the VW world Bosch Super spark plugs used to be the gold standard until they were made outside of Europe and we all moved to NGK. Is there a spark plug manufacturer that you guys use? I don't see anything in the driver;s manual just yet, I had the same thing happen as your MMO spill except it was a gallon of Power Service diesel treatment in the trunk of an older Jetta diesel. Not sure how it got out of the closed bottle but it got everywhere and the stench was almost unbearable. I bought another bottle of MMO yesterday. It was on sale for $5 at Menards and I'd rather spend the $5 than try to salvage what's left in the cracked bottle before I have to. That's is some messy stuff.

Hopefully this doesn't start a firestorm like it does on VW diesel web sites but what oil are you guys using? I got my repro Driver's Manual last night and it notes SAE 30 above 32 F, which is when I will be driving it, probably more like 60 to 90 F in the summer around here. That's a 1954 recommendation but this is 1954 technology and it might be still the right thing to do but I want to ask the question. I've had a number of early first gen Cummins for the last 20 some years and I have been using 5w 40 synthetic Rotella in those (and my VW diesels and my John Deeres, VW and Subaru gas engines etc etc) but the 5w isn't recommended in the drivers manual till -10F and I've seen older tech engines leak synthetics. I think the high zinc content in diesel oils is beneficial so I'm leaning that way but dino oil versus synthetic and maybe a different grade, maybe 10w30 Rotella or Delo. That seems like the way I'm going unless there is some experience out there that says it's a bad idea. I do have lead additive for the gas already from another project and since I'm not sure if the valve seats have been done, I plan on using that. I grabbed my plug socket and bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil last night to dose the cylinders and apparently the bottle has been too cold for too long because the bottle cracked and I ended up wearing most of it. The joys of winter time in the salt belt.

It is a half ton so that wheel should fit. I also like the look of dog dish hubcaps going back to when I had Chevy flat cap rally wheels on a 62 Impala. You could put those flat caps on a Yugo and I'd probably be interested in it. I had a 82 D100 shortbed with the "cop style" Mopar hubcaps with the small holes in them and I liked that look pretty well. Since this will never be a purist grade restoration I will probably just go with some newer wheels that accept the later friction attached caps and save the originals. As you mentioned, if I lose a cap, it won't be a big deal. The tires that are on there have a lot of tread, in fact they look new and were manufactured in 2014 so they aren't terribly old. I believe they were stored inside most of the time. They hold air and roll well so I am hoping to use them for a while with whatever wheels I end up with. I have a buddy who will mount "old" tires for me when needed.

Here comes the first of what I suspect will be a number of questions, hopefully not too many, and not too silly. I see on the Flathead Identification link on JB Neal's signature that there can be 218 or 230 CI engines with code T334 installed on a 1954 C-1-B truck. Rock Auto has both shown as options as well (along with a 227 CI). What I haven't been able to find is how to tell which one I have. Can we get there via HP ratings? The dataplate and engine display T3342724 so it is the correct code and a T truck engine, the plate shows 87 net HP @ 3,200 RPM and 105 gross HP @ 3,600 RPM. Does this provide a clue? Thanks!

Thanks for the link, good information there. The VW clips took a special anvil tool that was NLA and a lot of people used standard pop rivets but it was hard to get them tight and a lot of people lost hubcaps. I ended up using flat head screws (maybe 6-32?) that stayed below the surface of the wheel so as not to interfere on the brake drums and self locking nuts and that worked out pretty well. If the hub caps turn out to be hard to find, I may just store the original wheels and get some more recent versions that will accept a later friction mounted hubcap.

I should have probably checked this earlier but I have now determined that the engine serial number matches the VIN plate on the firewall so it should be the original engine.

Thanks. I'm not sure I would even call it a restoration, I think it's more like someone wanted to update a good set of sheet metal to their own taste for daily driver use in good weather and that's probably the way I'm looking at it, too. It's probably not purist but I'd like to paint the front grill bars white to create some sort of contrast up there. I agree about the hood ornament and I'm not clear what those doohickeys are but I look at sheet metal first and this one is ridiculously good for the salt belt. In addition, the bed sides, front panel, and tailgate look new, it's the taller bed (which is what I wanted), and it has all of the wood bed rails and hardware in good condition. Given the low miles, I think it must have sat somewhere for quite a while and was really never used as a truck. My son and I had to move it around (parallel park type stuff) to tuck it into the garage and it steers very well with little to no play so that's good. Long term, I'd like to find a replacement panel between the hoods to remove the hood ornament and do some other cosmetic things but for now, I'd just like to get it running and go from there. I do have a question....I asked much earlier about the wheels that are used on these trucks and I recall the bolt pattern is pretty common. The spare in the bed is clearly a later version wheel with spots where a later hub cap would mount to the wheel but at least one of the wheels has five spring clips around the bolt holes and the other I can see so far has holes for some clips. I'm guessing those clips are for the original hub caps? My old VW's were set up like that, clips riveted to the wheel. Thanks

Thanks. I thought it looked pretty good too. The paint may actually clean up with some clay and wax but not sure what I am going to do. Just want to get it running once the weather changes a bit up here. I bought a battery yesterday. I had a friend that bought a similar school back in the day, think it set him back $45k, which was still less than most houses at the time. Single guy, lived in a small part of it and used the kitchen, used to throw parties now and again. The maintenance and costs for HVAC made him get rid of it in maybe 5 years. I believe this guy just subscribes to the theory that they aren't making land any more so he picks things up cheap when available. He bought the old bank downtown too because it was originally listed for $700k and he got it for $150k. Wasn't clear what he was going to do with it. The pharmacy with the nicer stuff will eventually become a pizza parlor so I believe he develops most things. The school was cheap storage for the cars and supplies for his rental houses in the area...there was a dozen or so washers and dryers, and doors and windows in there too.

Yes, they can be pretty tolerant in some ways, seem to be better than a lot of other states. I got it home. AAA took 2 hours to arrive last night in 15 degree temps only to refuse to move the truck because it did not have valid plates attached. I had proof of insurance and the signed bill of sale (title is in process) but the plates made it a non starter. Kind of odd because I've had AAA for 15 years and all I ask them to do is move projects for me. Anyway, this morning I called someone else local who has moved things for AAA when I called and had them do the job. Wasn't cheap, but I wanted it home. It's the first time I've really been able to see it from any distance because it was so buried in the school basement and I'm still delighted with it. More of the paint is coming off in various places than I thought but it's all metal and all dead straight that I can see and find. In addition, it looks like all of the metal brake lines on the rear axle have been replaced, haven't dug into it too much more since it's still 20 degrees outside. I have a set of the Dave Graham and Detroit Iron manuals on the way so I can start checking things out. (I added a photo of the school building that was hiding all of these cars, just for fun).

The truck actually came from Colorado so that's what I'm planning to run. I can transfer one of my Ohio Historical plates to the truck for $5 and they are originally good for 50 years I believe., I have a few sets ready to expire but one that should be good for a while. I am allowed to run plates from the year the truck was made as long as I keep the registered Historical plate available in the truck for display. I am actually supposed to run 1954 Ohio plates but cops typically don't bother you if it's an older vehicle and clearly something nice. I recently sold a one owner 65 VW beetle that still had the original black and yellow California plates on it and I drove it quite a bit like that while I had it, no one bothered me, but I had the Ohio plate inside if needed. My wife has worked for the local county court for quite a while and knows all of the judges, prosecutors, and many of the cops so if I do get stopped, it might not be an issue.

My glovebox is gone so nothing in there, I checked the visors, nothing there, I haven't checked under the seat yet. VW sometimes tucked the build sheet in the rear seat between the bottom of the cushion and the springs so I've learned to look everywhere.

I now pay the balance due thursday and should be getting it home friday after work. I guess moving that Rolls Royce with a frozen rear brake is harder than they thought. the guy said the entire undercarriage seemed to be covered and he couldn't find a jack point and didn't want to guess for obvious reasons. So I was searching the web for a 12 volt battery that would fit the existing tray (found one) and got into a rabbit hole on license plates. And wouldn't you know I found a few sets of 1954 Colorado truck plates on eBay...they really do have pretty much everything. These are the nicer ones, I might have to get them.

Yeah, we used to go to Texas for trucks because they were plentiful, cheap, and not rusty. That truck would be $10k up here. I've learned through months of looking to not even look at older trucks under $7k because they were going to still be complete basketcases. Or "I took this apart some years ago and know all of the parts are here" (unmarked, in random boxes) or "mostly solid, I have all of the patch panels needed to fix the rust". Once you establish that, it's not hard to spend a bit more on something like this. Mix in a few bad experiences with sight unseen purchases even with photos and videos and having it an hour away, well, it becomes a no brainer. I just had to get comfortable with having a C-1, which wasn't made for long. Understood on the rings, I have a bottle of 50/50 ATF and acetone already mixed, I use it on everything that needs to come loose, I used it on Ford 8N rings that had been open to atmosphere for years and it got them loose.

Short version is that I bought it. I kinda screwed up because I had a meeting with a contractor this morning that took long enough that the banks were closed so my pocket full of cash wasn't all that impressive but I'm okay with what I paid for it. I'm going with the "kicking myself later" thought process. Also.... I found the original air cleaner assembly. The original spare tire carrier is in the bed. The title VIN matches the dataplate on the firewall, the mileage is shown as actual on the title (58,xxx) He hasn't found the key but we hotwired it so I've heard it turn over briskly, heard the fuel pump kick on/smelled fuel. (He showed me the massive number of keys in his briefcase and promised he would have one of his guys go through them and find the key that went with the truck). It rolls freely, and goes in and out of gear just fine. Oil was clean and to the proper level on the dipstick. Rear brake cylinders will need to be replaced, which is why the brakes were down. He said he has another 54 parts truck in Virginia so if I need something, I'm supposed to just give him a call and he'll get me what I need. The more I looked at it, the more I liked it and again, when else am I going to find one I can see personally? So I bought it. The Rolls Royce behind it had a stuck brake so it needs to be freed up so they can get it out. I will deliver the balance due tuesday after work (banks are closed on monday) and get the title. I'll make arrangements to have AAA bring it home wednesday after work. I really don't think it will take much to get it going but I'm sure you guys will help me if I get stuck, right? I spent a few hours with him one on one when he invited me to see the other cars in the pharmacy in the neighboring town. He can't drive right now for some reason so I drove him around. He told me he barely made it though high school but somehow he's done really well. When you can outbid Jay Leno for a car in the $250k+ range, I'd say you're doing okay. And there are more cars in Virginia, he is going down there thursday to meet with folks to sell those and check on some real estate developments he has going. As Los Control said, he's just divesting himself of most of the cars because he knows his sons don't know or care what they are. He doesn't need the money (obviously!) but he has a history with each of them in some way or another, he bought my 54 from a very good friend when his friend's health started to fail. Now his health is failing and he is trying to get them new homes before he runs out of time. Anyway, that's probably more than you needed to know but it's been a very unique adventure. More to follow when I get it home. First order of business is to find a good rear bumper and brackets to protect that sheet metal out back! Thanks for the opinions and responses.

Thanks for the replies and information. Glad to hear the carb and heater are probably OEM and original. The taillight on the other side is the same. I only wondered because Googling the Signal Stat part number didn't come up with anything so I figured it was older. There also is a splice in the harness near the light, another sign it was added later. I thought that there should be a bracket for the license plate on the taillight but there is what appears to be a light under the center of the tailgate that I assume is for a license plate, it must have been relocated or added later.

Roads are bad today, still waiting to see if they are going up there or not. I've been going through the photos again (I have 104 of them) and found a few parts that I wondered if are original to the truck or not. The Mopar Deluxe heater, Signal Stat 21-L taillight, and the Carter carb....

Nice truck and solid opinion, thanks. I hear you. I feel like I may be in the kicking myself phase if I don't at least try to make a move. I didn't hear anything today so I sent a message this evening. I keep looking at the photos of the 54 (I have quite a few more I haven't uploaded inside the fenders and other rust prone spots that look really good) and I just don't know when I'll find another one of these this solid in my own back yard where I can lay hands (and magnets) on it. So I'm going up there tomorrow (if the weather holds out, we are supposed to have snow, freezing rain, rain and more snow tomorrow/sunday) with cash in hand. I told them I'm interested as it sits but want to work a deal. It appears they still can't find the key. Switches with keys are $7.60 on Rock Auto and I just had to replace one on my 92 D350 so that's not a big deal. But that also means I can't start it. It's a flathead six that seems to be a pretty bulletproof engine with parts available, right? The truck has been restored at some point before it was parked, it's hard to believe they would restore something with a bad engine or not go through it to some degree. He said it ran when he bought it, which I take with a grain of salt because it can't be proven, but nothing else I've seen he's bought has been junk. But I care more about the sheet metal here in Ohio than the mechanicals. I expect it will need coaxing and maybe some ignition parts to start after sitting but I'm okay with that. I still have my dwell meter etc. However, if I can manually turn the engine and feel compression, I would feel better. What is the crank nut size, can I get to it, what would I need? CW direction of rotation? We've talked about VIN....I only found the dataplate on the firewall uploaded on an earlier post and I didn't see anything anywhere else. I did not check anything on the engine serial number other than a T prefix so that seems right, if the engine does not match the firewall plate, is there another VIN plate or ID, where it is located? He said the truck was from Colorado so I should see that on the Ohio title but how else do I align the truck with the title? It doesn't have to go through the Ohio out of state inspection (basically checks body VIN versus title VIN) but still wondering how I know they match. He has the beater 54 there as well, just want to be sure I get the right title. The hour or two I spent around these guys yesterday was informative, I spent an hour just talking to the owner, we both grew up in the rougher areas Dayton. This guy owns property all over the place from Ohio to Virginia and the guy I'm working with is like a property manager/maintenance guy for everything in addition to trying to sell the cars. He said the boss owns most of the houses in a few places. The owner said he has an old pharmacy nearby the school where he keeps the nicer Rolls Royces. Apparently, the school holds the low rent stuff, most of his nice cars are in Virginia where he lived before coming to Ohio. He's sent quite a few of them to Mecum already from what he's said and I tend to believe him. This truck is small potatoes in the big picture, that's why he called them away to work on something else when I was standing there and they couldn't find the key. It's change in the ashtray to him but he still wants that change, except when there are larger potatoes to buy elsewhere. It's been an adventure. Thanks!

If I was close enough to Kansas to check that out, I'd definitely have a look at it and quite possibly buy it. It just seems that few to none of these survivors show up around here because the salt kills them.

It looks decent to me as well. The owner said the truck came from Colorado so that probably explains a lot. I've learned to look elsewhere for anything rust free....my son lives an hour north of Seattle and that's the perfect environment for cars. No snow so no salt and not enough sun to bake paint or interiors. Unfortunately, it's $1,500 to have something shipped back but I have been looking just in case the impossible deal shows up and he's Facetimed me before so I could look at something.

I sent a message to the guy fielding the calls for the owner on car sales and he didn't know if the owner had found the key or not. They didn't work today because of the icy roads in the area, it's probably an hour and a half of back roads to get from where they live to the school. It's 25 degrees and snowing sideways due to the 25 mph winds after freezing rain last night so I get why they might not make the trip. I told him I was interested enough to buy the truck but would like to have a key and hear it run, no reply as of yet but the guy was getting texts constantly while I was with him yesterday. Apparently he fixes up all of the owner's properties as well as selling of his cars, plus drives him around everywhere because his eyesight is going bad. Anyway, we'll see where it goes from here. If it was meant to be, it will happen.

Thanks for the response. I plan on taking some cash with me and see how things work out, assuming they find the keys. I would "like" your response (and the others before it) but apparently I've exceeded my amount of reactions for today and I get an error message when trying

Thanks for the responses and guidance. Good to know on the battery box, I was wondering why there was rust in that area when everything else looked good. Made me wonder what else might be rusted that was hiding somewhere. Also noted about the other buyer suddenly entering the picture. They've cleared out another 10 cars in the week I was on vacation so they are moving them out, that's for sure. Whether that's a bargaining ploy or not, hard to say. I will ask today about the key, he said he has a title, and I will need to see the title before going further. As mentioned previously, $10 for a key is not going to be a dealbreaker but I will ask them to swap the switch from the other truck or hotwire it so I can hear it run. Regarding price and condition....yes, this is the $9,500 truck and everything Los Control mentioned are valid points to think about, for sure. It has been sitting for years which is probably why it's still as good as it is but it means more work. Here's what I'm thinking right or wrong....maybe you guys have had better luck finding these than I have but this is the first time I've seen ANY vehicle around here older than 1980 that wasn't a recent fresh paint "restoration" that I tend to run away from, a bondo bucket like the D100 in Tennessee, or some combination of both. A remote/sight unseen purchase that has never worked out well for me so those are out as well. At least this is all original metal as best I can tell and right here where I can see it for myself. Being in the rust belt, I tend to look at wiring and mechanicals as something I'm willing to fix if the sheet metal is right and I like the vehicle. Is it overpriced? Possibly, but if the chances of me finding another one this straight tucked away in the basement of an abandoned school an hour away are slim to none, maybe I'm willing to pay for it versus chase something else I may or may not find for a long time. If I like it well enough to keep it, the investment is worth it to me. I will see if they found the key and go from there, will report back one way or another. Thanks again for the feedback, it's all much appreciated.