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jerseycj8

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  • Posts

    31
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1951 Dodge B-3
    1988 K5 Blazer
    1984 Jeep CJ-8 Scrambler

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  • Biography
    jeep, k5 blazer and now B-3 enthusiast
  • Occupation
    civil engineer

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  • Location
    Jackson, NJ
  • Interests
    cars, woodworking, dogs

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  1. Brad - I am stalking yet one more of your threads. In the photo of the steering column and bracket, there appears to be a large felt coupler cushion between the shaft and 2 brackets. I bought my project mostly in boxes, so I now know what that inner bracket, but don't see a felt coupler. Any ideas? Thx, Evan.
  2. Had an extra one in the parts bin and installed with the rubber lip facing in towards the gearbiox. Whew.
  3. Brad - Got a local machine shop to do the heavy work; however, the reaming of the bushings looked like my dog chewed them from the inside out. As such, I found ID bushing material that they milled OD down to spec and I installed today. Question - I installed the sector shaft seal, but having second thoughts if correct orientation. Attached is photo. Is this correct?
  4. Thank you, I am leaning this way after reading all the replies. I am too young to have old inner tubes laying around....:)
  5. Working on the 51 b3b and wanted some feedback on what products have been used with success to seal the multiple floor board joints/seams. I spent lots of time cleaning off what appeared to be a caulk gun applied bitumastic sealant. I plan on coating the underneath and inside cab with berliner after install, but with the 5 piece floor board system in this truck, I gotta assume all these seams should be sealed when assembled.
  6. Thanks for the heads up, never saw the wedge carb plate before. I think I am good. Others talked me off ledge and I welded up the spring perches today such that pinion angle was same, but opposite, the trans output angle.
  7. Ok, and all the reading I have been doing about this has made my head spin. So, if I read your response correctly, don't fret and match my diff pinion angle (up) to how the motor/trans (down) is sitting now. Then grab a beer.
  8. Adding some pics to show what I tried to explain. Again, these are taken with motor weight on frame and frame sitting on rear axle without bed. Cab is sitting on frame.
  9. Brad - I received my kit this past week, but sorry to say that I will not be using.....until you are completely done and sharing all of your trials/tribulations!!!! I am cheering you on tho.
  10. Question (or likely several) for the master builders on this forum.. Leveled the B3B frame, welded motor mounts and installed transmission cross member. Motor/trans is about 2 inches offset to the passenger side. When frame was level and motor/trans mounts installed, the engine intake was almost perfectly level. Put the vehicle on the ground, on tires and now the engine intake reads 1-deg too high (i.e. trans needs to drop 1-deg) resulting in a transmission angle of 2.5 degrees down (when measured with a digital cube angle finder placed on the vertical face of the output shaft). I can reduce the trans poly mount to 1/4" thick, and/or add 1/4" thick spacer to raise engine mount. Q1 - Am I over thinking this? My next step is to weld new spring perches onto a Chrysler 8.25 from Jeep Cherokee. I have the axle centered on rear frame (same distance between springs on both sides) with the weight of the frame (no bed) on the axle. The perches are not welded yet, and i need to set my rear pinion angle. Using a floor jack, i plan on rotating the pinion up to correct angle. Q2 - What is the correct angle for the pinion......assuming the response is entirely dependent upon what I need to do for Question 1.
  11. So with the mig tack welds, it is not the intention to weld the pin to the housing, but just to add material beyond the diameter of the pin so the pin doesn't come out, correct? The pin should still move freely.
  12. I am a couple weeks behind on this same rebuild, my rebuild kit was shipped yesterday. Learning quite a bit, so thank you to all. What about having the machine shop provide a new pin that extends 1/8 on each end beyond the supplied one and notching for c or circlip?
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