speedyshark

When I brought my totally original survivor 1948 dodge d24 by a buddy's shop( who does airbag trucks) he said it needs to lay on the ground. I told him I have had the car for a week now and driven it 5 days straight. It runs good rides good too, why would I put stuff on it that will have me in the shop everyother week fixing something? Just seems most of the time I see the air ride cars and trucks needing something done or fixed everyother week or so. Not to mention going through tires every 6 months. They do look cool if on the right car, just seems messing with the suspension geometry causes a lot more problems down the road. Like you said each there own. Oh and I bought a victory bike and look way cooler then those H.D riders. lol

Wow lots of different opinions, but that is what makes the mopar world go around. guess I will try a good quality 30w oil and go from there. Thanks to everyone who has chimed in, I did learn some good things.

You mean the Porsche motor in my 48 is not stock? Sorry meant to say flathead 6. Would flatly be ok to say? Just asking. The car does have a stock oil filter on it. Seems a good choice to go with 30w since the car is all stock and has not been touched.

Just ordered the filter, it is the stock one and I know it has not been changed in over a year. PO passed away about a year ago and it had been sitting since then. Was thinking that maybe 40w since it has a small leak, but might just try 30 and go from there.

Just wanted to ask what type and grade oil would be good to use in the flat 6? I have a 48 d24 and was going to do an oil change ( first time since bought car) it has a small leak so was wondering if I should just use a thicker oil? Maybe a straight 40w or ??? I live in San Antonio Tx so not that cold here.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I just bought an old blue point in really good condition with a total of three sets of arms, set of two and two sets of three, guess one set is larger than the other for $114 shipped.

I see snap on still sells them, howeve they are made in china now and $185 for it. Guess would not be bad if it carries lifetime guarantee. The one on eBay looks ok if price stays under 100

Just wanted to ask where to get a good quality drum puller? I don't want to order one that I will use once then brakes. Prefer one made in the USA if they still make them here or does any one know if snap on tools sells one. Thanks

Thanks just ordered the book.

So makes no difference if it is for the ply? I have a dodge d24. Just so I know, am I right on the coil not getting power if neg and pos connected wrong?

Ya, your right I am going to find one to order. I was just worried about the neg and pos thing, but think it is right the way it is or there would be no power to coil. Looks like po changed the ground to block so when that was done guess the car was switched to neg ground. Where is a good place to order a Manual?

Wanted to ask if the car was hooked up wrong on the poles, then the car would not start correct? The coil would not get power and not fire? When I drive around the fuel gauge bounces from full to empty and the speedo bounces a little as well. Not sure if it had something to do with the batt.

Well I have a 1948 dodge coupe (d24) that is all original and running good. Everything in the car works except the radio. When I turn on the radio the light comes on and when I turn the dial there is no sound. Can someone tell me how to start looking to see what might be wrong? I want to add a redirad set up and a 6v to 12v convert to run my portable xm radio. Thanks or any help

I guess everything is right. Car runs everything, but radio works and the amp meter will drop to neg then bounce around a little then go to 0.

So as long as the amp meter goes to pos side when I puts draw on batt, then the polarities are correct?

Thank you Merle. Looks like the batt is connected right then.

How will I know if the car has been changed to neg ground? The old batt was an 8volt and dead. Bought new 6volt and when connected and turned on it the amp meter was in neg then went to middle while driving. Should I try swapping the cables and start to see if amp meter goes to pos side? Thanks for any help guys.

Did you check to see if the motor was locked up? I used the PB Blast(Love that stuff) kept putting it in over several days and would rock the crank back and forth before I started it. I am not sure if mine was locked up or not. Just wanted to make sure since it sat for over 20 plus years.

On my 47 dodge it is also inboard.

Hey guys how has it been going? I have not posted in a while, but hopefuly back (if they don't change my meds again:( ) Going to rebuild my wheel cylinders and called NAPA. they have the rebuild kit for the rear, but show different part numbers for the front.(upper and lower) I do have the two up front (one cut in half). Want to know do I need to buy the six kits, 4 for front and two for rear? or will the ones for the rear be the same for front? They did say it is same part number for bottom as back, but different for upper. O'Reilly's has the kits and it is same for all four:confused: I guess what I am asking is can I just order four rear and the kit work for the upper and lower in front? or do I just need to try it? They also had the rebuild kit listed for the master so hope it is the right one as well. Thank you for any help.

Hey guys kind of been of and on the site for the last few weeks. Any way wanted to ask if 215/60/16 will fit on our 4.5" rim?

Did the shop do something different on the starter? On my '47 it is on the driver inner fender. Follow the wire coming out of the + side of batt. ( if also neg ground was done when converted to 12v) to see where it goes. should end on one side of the solenoid. should come off easy if on fender. I used an old (mickey mouse) type Ford solenoid on my car.

I know I have been asking a lot of questions about tires and such. I am going to do my brakes and will need tires soon. Like I said trying to find the least expensive way for now as I will change them later. I guess I have found I can not use anything with more that a 5" backspace and very little like 0 to -1 on offset for fender clearance. The bolt pattern is 5x4.5 or 5x114.3mm. Has any one tried a set of newer Chrysler 300 rims? found some take-offs reasonable. The thing is bolt pattern is close 5x115 instead of 5x114.3. does anyone know if they will work.

The 215/75/16 were not to wide to fit on the 4.5" rim?

The guy only sells tires does not mount or perform any services. So I know he was not trying to sell unneeded services. I do agree some people will do that. He sells vintage tires out of Dallas Tx. and was telling me that radials needed a toe of 0 I think and bias were different. Well If you guys have not had any problems I guess I will keep my search for radials. I don't want to spend a lot of money on tires as I will change the suspension and rear end in the near future and change rims. I can get the 16 bias for around $500. It seems kind of hard to find radials thin enough to fit on the stock rims in 16. I do have some 15 which are also thin rims, but I think it would be ease to find the radials.( like a 205/75/15). Oh well the search will go on. I would love to keep the 16 with stock center caps but if I can't oh well.