seanpt105

hey guys, im working on getting my tryck on the road again but i cant get the brake light to work, i have power if i touch the two wires light comes on, nothing when connected to switch, pulled the switch(it is new) and there is brake fluid at the top of the hole but nothing comes out when i hit the pedal with the switch out. new switch, master and wires. installed by previous owner.

its from dcm but yes number 2 to signal and second post to ground works perfectly. i got the cheaper one that you have to set the float height but other than the broken wire on my truck it works great.

i figured it out late last night i got it working out of tank sporadically ended up being the number 2 wire is broken inside casing and gets a hit or miss connection ran a new wire from the gauge and it worked perfectly.

hey guys trying to get my fuel gauge working having some trouble its a 40 plymouth truck, ive looked through some pages on here and didnt found any answers. i got a new sending unit it bench test fine with my ohm meter it goes from 73 to 10 ohms. my gauge works if i run the number 2 wire to the center post on sending unit and put a jumper wire from frame to ground lug on sender but it pegs to full i cant get it to read a correct reading anything i do either makes it go to full or read nothing ive tried every combination of hooking up wires that you can think of. im at a loss any help is appreciated, thanks.

carb shop set float. no i havent used a vacuum gauge, the vacuum line for the wipers is broken. do i adjust the same screw? the one at the base of the carb i can turn by hand?

got my carb cleaned and rebuilt recently trucked fired right up after that and new plugs, idle screw was way out i turned it in until truck almost stalled then backed it out half a turn, issue im having is when hitting the throttle i get lots of smoke out the back and it seems like its running very rich old plugs were black and fouled and the fumes are enough to make your eyes water. is there another adjustment im missing? it seems like its dumping to much gas when off idle circuit.

ok thanks ill check it out, i got a windshield frame from them, worth every penny.

wow, yea i got the truck a few months back with the bed in pieces and those were in the mix i figured they were rear hidden panels underneath the bed or heat shields, i never wouldve figured out that they went in the front.

maybe you know, im looking for the tailgate brackets that you slide the pin through that holds it shut mine are snapped off clean i can fab something but would like the correct part, do you know where i can find them?

Hahaha i was pulling my hair out trying to figure it out. Thanks for telling me i never wouldve figured that out.

No i have those. I have these 2 panels and i cant figure out where they go. I first thought they were heat shields but i have the rear mounted tank and it looks like one goes around the filler neck.

hey guys im assembling my bed from scratch p.o. took it all apart and i got it in pieces. everything so far has been pretty self explanatory but the rear filler panels are stumping me i cant for the life of me figure out how they attach or where. ill grab a pic of them in the morning but from the look of them i think a fender bracket mounts off of it and it has a spot for 3 bolts on one edge. there are 2 panels 1 for left 1 for right. if anyone has a pic of them on their truck theyd share or could point me in the right direction id appreciate it. thanks in advance.

yea i think im going to get all 3 switches, the panel switch fell apart and the spot for the taillights on the headlight switch is busted off, and the dimmer is sticky sometimes. anyone know a good place to get a headlight switch? i only have 1 taillight all the ones i keep seeing have a rotary dimmer and a spot for 2 taillights.

ok thanks, my switch is bad now every 30 pulls they randomly come on. truck sat for awhile outside and windshield leaked so im assuming its full of rust. hard switch to find it only has one taillight all the ones i see are for cars with 2 taillights or they have a dimmer built in i have separate panel light switch so i dont know why id need a dimmer.

not the headlight connector but the one that is inside the headlight bucket that goes through the fender its a twist one like a light bulb i cleaned up the contacts but they still dont work well. i think im going to replace them with weathertite bullet connectors. only thing i cant figure out now is the marker lights arent on when the headlights are on, when you pull the headlight switch 1 click markers come on when i fully engage it they shut off and headlights come on is that normal?

so plug between headlight bucket and body was corroded, and panel light switch is bad. going to replace that and headlight switch. anyone know if they make replacement plugs for the weird round connector inside headlight?

ok thanks

when i use a meter in the plug on the ground wire and either low or high beam power wire it has 6 volts, when i back probe it with the light plugged in it has 0 volts.

so im looking into getting my lights up and running, they worked once. since then i havent been able to get them on. i pulled a headlight today and i have 6 volts with high beam and low beam in the plug without the headlight plugged in, when i bench test the headlight it works so im stumped. all dash lights are the same way. i have nothing for the fuel sender and have no taillights yet so i cant test them. truck does run ammeter twitches with the key and all wires are tight. i have two disconnected wires under dash that were taped up so i know lights worked without them hooked up. any help is much appreciated im not too familiar with positive ground or 6 volt systems but it seems pretty cut and dry.

edit: just realized i forgot to mention voltage at the plug drops to 0 when bulbs are plugged in

just pulled other door apart and saw the clips youre talking about im missing a bunch have to see if i can get new ones. also missing the track inside the door thats spot welded in im assuming thats an obsolete item.

just got all new door seals and gaskets for my pt105, what have you guys done to install the window track mine has a tab on the rear channel that holds the end in place and it fits tight all the way up to the first curve on the rearward side the front corner had 2 screws in it and the track fits looser i put the screws in but the top sags. do you use weatherstrip adhesive dbl sided tape or more small screws? also on the cowl seal same question adhesive or tape? the kit i got from dcm and it all seems very well made i also got a windshield and frame and it is awesome no more rusted warped and bent leaky windshield.

Ill have to get it outside for some new pics i dont have any i can upload of the whole truck

Did a ton of research it was an army truck in boston at the south boston army base which was an army and navy installation. Found reg numbers on the hood but no way to trace and bumpers are long gone. It was part of the 1st division of supply. It is matching numbers frame body and engine, frame and body have matching serial number.

turns out all 4 wheel cylinders were leaking and half of the pistons were stuck, rebuilt them all honed them and bled now have perfect pedal.

thought the same thing attempted to top it off and it overflowed all over the place. going to pull all wheels this weekend and inspect.

sorry for the delay... previous owner replaced everything new lines shoes and all wheel cylinders. i havent had a chance to pull wheels yet as it has been below zero or barely over for the past few weeks. i want to check adjustments but brakes did work fine all of a sudden the pedal is at the floor and it barely stops.