My49Plymouth

I used a 797 reamer when I installed kingpins this winter in my 49 deluxe. They feel correct to me ... no play. The car's handling is much improved.

Radiator cap is typical ... located on the top of the radiator.

Thanks all , I am pretty sure my radiator is a Champion ... I installed it several months ago ... I keep the car in the garage and I don't take it out too often ...apparently I never tried to close the hood after I put it in ... I went to close the hood last week to take a picture ... the new dent in the hood where where the radiator cap is indicates that the radiator sits 1/4 inch too high. The bottom of the radiator is sitting all the way down in the "frame". Hence a litlle massaging is needed.

Thanks Deathbound. I was thinking of converting to an electronic fuel pump, but then noticed it was the vacuum booster that is in the way. According to my Plymouth Service Manual my fuel pump with vacuum booster was supplied as special equipment. hkestes41 picture above shows the front Langdon header clearing the normal fuel pump ... so I may go that route. Does anyone know what was the purpose of the vacuum booster on the fuel pump? Also, Langdon supplied the actuals flat flanges ... what I am looking for would be a pipe with a lip such that the flange would slip on the pipe and agaisnt the lip and hold the pipe against the donut. This way the flange is "floating" on the pipe instead of being welded fast.

Hello guys - I am looking for some advice: I am installing Langdon headers on my 49 (P-18) Plymouth. My car has the fuel pump with the vacuum booster. The lines from the vacuum booster are not connected to anything. Due to the vacuum booster the headers hit the fuel pump. QUESTION 1: Any reason I can't replace the fuel pump with a non-booster type? QUESTION 2: For the vacuum lines that are not currently hooked up - do I need to do something about those? Were they supposed to provide vacuum to the wipers? QUESTION 3. For those with the Landon headers: when you fabbed the exhaust where did you source the folange pipe that bolys to the headers? I thought that finding the flange pipe would be super easy, but I have Googled and looked at Summitt,Jegs, etc. and haven't really seen what I think a need. Thanks for any advice. FYI: so far I have converted front brakes to disk, converted to a dual master cylinder, converted to the Petronix ignition, added a spin off oil filter adaptor. I bought the car as 12V. Beside the dual exhaust my winter project list includes: dual carbs on Offenhauser manifold, replacing wiring with Rebel harness, replace king pins, modify the radiator brace for new aluminum radiator, etc. THANKS

okay ....thanks for the input guys... Can I get to these bolts without pulling the front motor mount? thanks

I have a 49 Plymouth with an L6. Is there anything (e.g. core plug) behind the timing cover that could leak coolent? I have a steady drip leak dripping from the cover. I replaced the thermostat and water pump gaskets hoping to fix the leak - it didn't help. I have felt around and can't feel any obvious wet spots. Thanks for any assistance!

Thanks Frankie. Thanks Niel - there is "1946 2EC" forged into the block to the right of the distributor. I have seen posted elsewhere on here on how to measure stroke - I will probably do this to verify that I have a 218. Dodgeb4ya - on the crank - it is actually the very edge where the circumference is narrow - it is chipped up a bit - perhaps from being roughly handled while out of the car at some point in its past life.

Thanks 54 Illinois ... when I look at Fig 19 that looks like what I have now. However pics of the neoprene seal I have seen for sale do not look like this. Dodgeb4ya ... assuming my block is a 49 - is it possible using a neoprine in place of the rope could cause an oil leak? Next question is actual year of engine - my block does not have anything stamped on the pad at the typical location - what is the signifigance? Head does have a large P on it. Thanks for the feedback guys.

Thanks Dave, So as I understand it, your seal has 3 bolt holes. My cap has 3 bolt holes (I did not chack the top half - will later) that were not used for the current seal. The seal that takes the 3 bolts is the one (or similar) that Rockauto.com shows for 1955 - 1959 L6's - they list them as Canadian built. On Rockauto.com I did not find a seal for late 40s to late 50's that looks like mine - could be that somebody used a different seal altogether. I am trying to verify the engine year - but the pad where the stamp should be is blank. I am still trying to figure out the best approach: 1. use a rope seal for a 49 2. order a newer neoprene (are the neoprene and rope interchangable?)

Hi guys, I did a search and saw several posts discussing rear main seals but I still have some questions. I have a 49 P18 and have it apart to replace the rear main seal. I purchased a rope seal kit as spec. for a 49 218 L6. After removing my rear cap I see I have a neoprene seal. According to my Plymouth Service Manual 1946 to 1953, the neoprene seal is for the 1953 model. Rockauto.com still lists a rope seal for a 53 and a picture they show for a neoprene 55 Canadian does not look like my seal. Another point of confusion - I saw posted in a previous post that a top half of a neoprene can't be replaced with the crank in place. My service manual states that the upper half "is easily removed. My questions are - are the rope and neoprene interchangable? should I order a neoprene for a 1953 or should I try to use the rope seal I purchased (maybe the guy before put in the wrong seal?), and as the manual states can the top be replaced with the crank in place? Also, I noticed that on the crank the edge of the rear main bearing thrust face is sharp / has burrs - so I will dress this. Any help would be appreciated - thanks!

Not sure of the oil - but it sure smells like 90W rear end lube to me. Pulled off the gearshift housing and stuck a magnet inside and did get some metal shavings - is that normal?

Hi all, I have a 1949 P-18 - with STD 3 speed. I bought the car last year and have never been able to shift into 3rd at speed. It seems to shift smoothly into all gears with engine off. While at speed I can not shift it into 3rd - grinds. Then I can not shift back into 2nd - grinds - until I have slowed down quite a bit. What is the most likely problem and fix? I would appeciate any assistance. The tranny is out of the car at this time. I have an old Plymouth service manual but it is not very specific for troubleshooting. Sorry, if this has been covered here in the past, but I searched and couldn't find appropriate info.

I have the tracking number. UPS definately delivered it to the wrong address.