Mopar Wayne

Hey all, thought I would give everyone an update - She is fixed! Found my gauge to be bad. For some reason the gauge itself was not grounding. I procured an NOS one from ebay (for a great price mind you) and tested it before I replaced. BOOM, I can now tell how much go juice I have left. I finished up making my sending unit and just finished installing it all. As a side note, I now have a 2 post sending unit for sale, Brand new. Installed to find out it was wrong. So if anyone needs it make me a fair offer. Also, thanks for all the input. This is such a great tool to have. Kudos to you all!

It is one wire, and I took the sender to the gauge and connected straight to the gauge with the same result. Plus it's only 1 wire going to the gauge from the front.

Thanks Dartgame, I did check the sender for changing resistance when the lever is moved. It does vary when moved. I also tried reversing the leads as well, with the same results . I am beginning to think the gauge is bad.

Update, I ordered a single post 10-75 ohm universal unit from Summit. The gauge still is not reading correctly. I am at a loss. The gauge has 2 posts on the back of it so I am sure it is a single wire unit. With the key on and the wire in the trunk not touching anything the gauge reads empty. If I ground the wire the gauge goes to full. When I wire in the sending unit it goes to full no matter where the float is. Does anyone know if I can test the gauge? I went with the 10-75 ohm resistance unit because that is what I saw on another post. I would think it would read something no matter what. I even took the sending unit and connected straight to the gauge with the same result. Any ideas would be really helpful. Care is still 6 volt, positive ground system. Thanks all

Hey DrDoctor, thanks for the info. My gauge has 2 lugs on it. My car is positive ground as well.

Hey all, I just replaced my fuel tank in my 48 D 24 Custom. I went to install my new sending unit and my new unit is a 2 pole sender and my original is a 1 pole. Any ideas on where I can get the 1 pole? It looks like in mid 48 they changed to a single pole design. My car is still 6 volt positive ground. I did some research and found only one reference from 2010 on the forum. Thanks

I should have both. Is it the same for fluid and regular standard trans?

Thanks everyone

Mine has a vacuum motor and does not work. So I am hoping to get this one usable and retro mine. My car is a deluxe model , the cheap one. I was just not sure on this part. But for what I paid for the car it is worth the gamble.

I got lucky this weekend and scored a parts car, Honestly there are not to many usable parts for me but I noticed it had an electric wiper motor and 2 heater boxes. Plus a spare transmission. My question is how rare are the 2 heaters and electric wiper motor? I have not seen one with them yet.

Thanks for all of the response. There is some great information and tips in here.

What oil do you recommend for my 48 230 flat head six. The manual calls for something that is no longer produced and to add some refined kerosene if needed. I would really rather not do this. lol. Wondering what new technology oil I should use.

Believe it or not I was able to get parts off of rockauto.com

Here is a long shot - http://vintageamericanpartsoflongisland.com/ I ordered a new tank, straps and sending unit from them for my 48 Dodge through Ebay. You may want to contact them and see if they have access to one.

Thanks Jerry, I placed my order this morning.

Jerry, That is great news. Thanks for looking into it! Wayne

Thanks all! As usual you saved my bacon. If I can get it cheap enough I still may grab it up.

Hey everyone. I found a 47 Plymouth Deluxe parts car that I can get. I have a 48 Dodge Custom. Will all the body panels, with the exception of the hood work? Also it appears to be a different radiator. Are the engines the same? Mine is a fluid drive and this is a standard 3 speed. Everythin that I need looks like it will work, but before I decide I thought I would ask the pro's.

Hey everyone, first off, you all rock! I have it figured out and done fixed it. Turns out the points the last person put in where missing part of the spring and I didn't even realize it when I took the distributor apart. I installed the new points (all of the included parts) and she runs like a raped ape now! I am not even sure if I need to replace the vacuum advance. I suppose if I come across a good deal I will. All of the ideas, suggestions and troubleshooting tips where spot on. Special thanks to Don. The drill idea was perfect. I didn't even need to hook it up to electric to find the issue. I know I will have tons more questions as I move along with this ole girl. I came to the right spot!

Thanks Greg. They where actually changed prior to me buying the car. So I am unsure of the brand. The coil is wired correctly. That was one of the first things I checked. As far as I know the gentleman I purchased the car from actually got it running after a long period of being out of service. I do have a question, is normal 18 or 20 ga stranded wire going to be acceptable to replace the existing wire with?

Thanks everyone. As an update I totally disassembled the distributor this morning. My vac advance is totally shot. I knew this and had already block the line to the carb. The bearing plate for the vac advance was gummed up bad. I cleaned it up and verified the mech advance is free and working (as best as I can without a dist machine). The wire inside the dist is very suspect. I actually wrapped it with some electrical tape but plan to make a new one tonight. I did not change out the points yet as I have to run and get a set. I did put is all back together and I still have the same result. Hopefully the points will take care of it. I will keep you all posted. Much thanks for the advice. On a side note, where can one get a vacuum advance. I saw one that was NOS on ebay, but I am unsure if I want to use an NOS one due to the rubber component and I also thought $90 was a bit steep. Here is a pic of my tag on the dist

Hi everyone, I am new to the 6 V positive ground system. So I apologize ahead of time for me seem like trivial questions. I have a 1948 dodge D 24 sedan with the 230 flat head six. She runs great at idle and all the way up to about 2000 RPM. Past that she start sputtering and Backfiring. I have rebuilt the carburetor, installed new points, condenser, rotor, distributor cap and set the timing. She honestly runs great at the lower RPMs. Once I start to accelerate or rev the engine from rest and get to about 2000 RPMs she starts to backfire and sputter. I have monitored the spark through my timing light And found that it starts to go erratic. I monitor the voltage on the positive side of the coil And at idle I have about 2.4 v. As the rpms raise the voltage drops and I find that the missing starts once the voltage hits zero and goes negative. Not sure what this means. I also used a test light to monitor the pulsing of the signal. The signal continues to grow brighter as the rpm is raised until I hit that certain mark. Then the pulsing is very erratic. It almost is acting like a rev limiter. But I cannot find one anywhere and my service manual makes no mention of it. I also must mention that monitored the vacuum with a gauge at the intake and have 20 inches at idle. If anyone has any helpful ideas I would love to here them. Thanks