johnsartain Posted October 16, 2017 Report Posted October 16, 2017 Today I started the engine for the first time even though I have had the engine built for quite a while, I am still working on the gas tank but there's nothing wrong with filling the float bowl and pouring a little fuel into the body of the carb. After retarding the timing from where it was it hit right off the bat. I had to fight an oil leak at the filter because I thought I never would get it tight enough. There was good oil flow though as it didn't take long to make a good puddle in the floor. Whenever I get the fuel tank and enough gas to keep it running for a while I can set the timing with the timing light. I had worked most of the morning trying to bleed out the brake lines without any luck. I had used steel brake lines which is all the parts houses in these parts had. I must have a air leak because vacuum bleeding makes it worse. I can get enough pressure to turn on the brake lights, but that's about it. I tightened all of the lines to the point something is about to strip out. I think rather than more brute force I will just back up and get some copper-nickel lines from Summit. I have all new wheel cylinders, a new 2 stage master cylinder, new combination/proportioning valve and residual valves on each end. I don't see fluid leaks, I just can't get any pressure. Any pointers guys? Quote
mechresto Posted October 16, 2017 Report Posted October 16, 2017 Did you bench bleed your MC? Also always inspect the double flares, modern steel line loves to cracking on the outside of the fold at the seam. Quote
johnsartain Posted October 16, 2017 Author Report Posted October 16, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, mechresto said: Did you bench bleed your MC? Also always inspect the double flares, modern steel line loves to cracking on the outside of the fold at the seam. Yes, I did bench bleed the MC. I figure you're right on the cracks at the fold. One of the main reasons for going to the copper-nickel line. I probably couldn't spot the crack if my life depended on it. I did reuse one of the old lines that looked ok but from what I hear they can have a lot of corrosion in the inside. Edited October 16, 2017 by johnsartain Quote
mechresto Posted October 16, 2017 Report Posted October 16, 2017 Yeah, they're hard to see... They open up as the fitting gets tighter, if you overtorque them....they should be visible. An extremely good double flare tool is priceless. The El cheapo tools just don't work. Quote
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