connecting rod, oil to the piston pin????

[DutchEdwin]

Hi,

Finally got the last engine parts from the states. It took them 4 weeks to get here. three weeks longer then normal (customs ). So, assembly can get started now.

I looked closer at the connecting rods. New bearings for the piston pins were installed. These bearings have a hole at the top to let oil in. The rod has a blind sink hole at the top. The funny thing is.....there is no hole that runs through to let the oil in to the bearing:confused: .

Question, should there be a hole, and if so how big should it be. I think I should drill one of 1.5mm = 0.059in. to let the oil in (see the pictures).

The progress.....

I measured the oil pump for wear. I discovered the rotors had maximum allowed play. So no more wear allowed. As the pump is the hard of the engine I decided to buy a replacement, 340 dodge oil pump (new after market) to get more volume out of it.

For the check valve to prevent the oil from leaking back into the engine is now working well on these engines, I converted to an adapter to put on modern type oil filter. To get the original look I will figure out later on how to put the original cover over it.

The crank is regrinded. To check I measured the play, with micrometers and plastigauge. I used dental material. A two compound material that hardens in two minutes and doesn't shrink or expand afterwards. Measured the thickness with a micrometer Every thing OK. One can only be sure

Next is the balance on the crank and flywheel and the piston ring gap in the cylinder, new bearing and guide bushing for the intermediate shaft. Funny it always takes twice the time you think you need .

[Fireball]

Edwin, it is not mandatory to drill the hole through, you will do just fine even without it. Those copper bushings just have it, since some aftermarket rods are drilled for it and some are not. Either way is OK for your application.

I have personally had both types in my racing engines for years of abuse, and no failures (in that area). Just remember to oil it good when assembling, so that it doesn't do a single cycle dry when the first starts are done. I prefer lubing with 50/50 mixture of STP stop smoke and mineral oil. It makes a great sticky stuff to stay in bearings if the startup is not coming within a day or so after buildup.