Front Coil Spring Removal On D24

[handlebar lou]

What is the best way to remove the front coil spring on my 46 Dodge.  I forgot how I put the springs in when I reassembled my front end. Is it easier to remove where it attaches to the spindle OR drop the A-arm from where it attaches to the frame? For some goofy reason I seem to recall that I put the spring in and reattached to A-arm to the frame.

[Mark Haymond]

I have done it both of the ways your have described. Disconnecting at the bottom of the spindle makes it hard to squeeze the rubber seals into place and align the lower pin when you put it back together. Disconnecting the A arm near the center of the frame is less technical. BOTH WAYS ARE SCARY because the spring tension is strong enough to cause serious injury if something slips. Take off the sway bar first or the A arm will not drop far enough to release the coil spring.

[_shel_ny]

Clipped this post from a 2007 thread: safety, and following any instructions provided is at the risk of the person doing the work.

 

On these cars you don't need a spring compressor, and in my opinion you don't need a safety chain or cable either, although you could use one if you wanted. All you need: 2 solid jackstands, wheel chocks, a hydraulic floor jack, some socket wrenches and a lot of GoJo. I'd also suggest putting down a disposable tarp because you will knock a lot of lumpy grease and dirt loose.

Jacking: Chock the rear wheels. I jack the car from the center front crossmember, using a wood block. Jack it high, and place a jackstand on each side, back near the firewall under the frame where the frame goes straight and flat. Lower the car onto the stands, give it a few shoves in different spots to make sure it's solid. Remove the front tires.

Drop the sway bar first, leave the eight bolts hanging from the crossmember. Leave the sway bar attached to the control arms at the ends but unbolt the bushing retainers and let it drop down. (That removes a lot of resistance when you lower the control arm to get the old spring out.)

Support the lower outer lower control arm with floor jack, out near the lower spring socket area, just barely compressing the spring. Remove the lower outer pivot pin. On mine it has a lock nut on one end. On some models it may have a castellated nut with a cotter pin. Remove that nut then just back out the long threaded pin from the other end with a large socket.

Lower the jack. At the same time you can pull the upright kingpin support outward at the bottom for working room. Two rubber cups (grease seals) will come out or may stick to the upright support. Save them and note which came from the front end and which the rear of the pivot pin, they have different shapes inside the cup.

As you lower the jack, the lower outer control arm will drop slowly and all tension should come off the spring. You should be able to reach in and rattle the spring around, it will be that loose. No tension. You may need to push or pry down on the lower arm a bit to get the spring out. With the arm pushed down, lift the spring up until it's at the top of its socket, then turn it and move the bottom to the rear and outward. Spring should rotate out pretty easy. That's it.

Then put in the new spring, flat end upwards. If there were any rubber noise dampers up there, put them back in. Rotate the spring to fit the bottom spring end into the little spring pocket in the bottom arm. Raise the arm slowly with the jack, line up the holes in the outer control arm and the upright support. Begin to thread in the pivot pin. Once it grabs the threads, stop and put the two grease seals (those rubber cups) in place. A putty knife or dull plaster knife helps keep the grease seals in place as you line up the threaded parts. If you can't line up the threaded holes so the pin turns in easily, try not only raising/lowering your jack a little, but moving the upright kingpin support in and out. Should line up easy. Caution, don't cross thread it. You should be able to turn it in by hand with just a large deep socket. If not, back it out and wiggle the assembly and try again.

Once the pin is threaded all the way through with the rubber cups in place, torque the pin.

Torque value is 100 to 110 ft lbs. In shade tree that's "really tight" but not "3' foot breaker bar really freakin' tight".

Then you put on your lock washer and lock nut or castellated nut. Drop the jack, do the other side, quicker now because the sway bar is already down and you know how it works now. Then when the other side is done, bolt up the sway bar with the 8 machine bolts that you left hanging in place in the crossmember. This is a good time to get out the grease gun and hit the 28 or so zirc fittings on your suspension and linkages. Tires back on, jack up the center, remove the jackstands, drop her down, step back and admire your work!

[handlebar lou]

Thanks for you help. I'll let you know how it goes