Dale Wray Posted October 4, 2011 Report Posted October 4, 2011 What gauge and type of metal should I use in body repair on my 3 passenger coupe? Is spot welding even an option? Quote
Rusty O'Toole Posted October 4, 2011 Report Posted October 4, 2011 (edited) Auto supply shops that sell paint and body supplies have the sheet metal. 20 or 22 gauge (20 is thicker). This is a little thinner than your car is made of but it is what body shops use. The thick stuff is too hard to bend and work with. 20 gauge is best. 22 kind of flimsy but easier to cut and work by hand. "Aluminum killed" is good it keeps off rust and you can weld it. DO NOT use galvanized, it gives off a poison gas when welded. Spot welding is fine, car makers have been building them by spot welding for more than 80 years. Fill the seam with seam sealer or butyl caulking after welding. I have spot welded doors, fenders etc, and filled over the seam with body filler and never had a problem BUT you must seal it first. If it is not sealed moisture will come in from behind and lift the filler or cause blisters. Notice how the seams on your new car are spot welded then sealed with seam sealer (caulking). Contrary to popular belief brazing will not cause paint or filler to lift. It is the flux. You have to get all that flux off, every bit. I rub the weld with a wet rag while it is still hot and almost all the flux pops off. Then get in there good with a wire brush in a drill. Do not leave any holes or gaps, weld them up or seal with seam sealer. Sandblasting the seams cleans off the flux too but makes a mess. You should look into the panel adhesive they make for installing panels. It is easy to use and does not burn or warp the metal like welding. Car makers have been gluing their new cars together with this stuff for 20 years. Edited October 4, 2011 by Rusty O'Toole Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.