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Posted

I'm still not sure why it needs to be set on 4 cylinder for it to read correct. I will get a tac/dwell meter and compare it to the gauge and see which setting is correct. Powerhouse, I noticed when I received the gauge from you it was on 4 cylinder, is that what you ran it on?

Posted

I bought a 1950 Plymouth sedan from my neighbor when I was 16 years old. I milled the head 60 thou and put a cutout on it. Then I would drive to Detroit Dragway and race in Stock N class, the lowest class. I purchsed a Sun tach with a 6 volt post gnd sending unit. (I still have this, working perfectly on my P-15 Bus Coupe). I note this to let you know I had a quality instrument, and as a scientist, that matters to me.

Anway, the rpm question. I ran this to 5000 rpm over and over...it never broke. I found I did get better times running up to 5000 than anything in the 4000 range. I used to beat the Corvairs in my class (sports cars huh?), falcons, jeeps etc. I usually lost to another 50 Ply Bus Coupe, his weighed a bit less. I could lay rubber off the line and pull ahead, he'd nip me at the end.

Now days, with a car that cost more than my first ($35), I don't don't do this anymore. I would not even go over 3500-4000 now....and I wonder why you would wnat to unless you need to whup a Corvair.

Posted (edited)
I'm still not sure why it needs to be set on 4 cylinder for it to read correct. I will get a tac/dwell meter and compare it to the gauge and see which setting is correct. Powerhouse, I noticed when I received the gauge from you it was on 4 cylinder, is that what you ran it on?

Hey there, I just saw your posts and was getting worried. Glad ya got it figured out. And sorry my face got in the way...hehehe.

Yes, it was on 4 when I got it and I ran it on 4. I don't know why it's set up that way. :confused:

Looks great and sounds GRREAT!

Edited by Powerhouse

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