52Suburban

Thank YOU P. Adams!!!!

My fault I tried to use words and should have used pictures

Does anyone make these or sell them? Or am I fabbing one up myself??

Well I finally talked to the head person in the shop and it turns out one of my rims is slightly bent. Why they put that rim on the front of the car is beyond me! With correct balance and two good rims on the front I am back to where I was before. Now a second opinion/price on front end work....

Got it! Had to leave the latch and pull unattached so that I could move/rotate both so I could get the tab in the slot and then mount everything.

Still working this out - they re-balanced all four tires and its better, but not right. Rotate front to back this week.

Thanks! Those are the parts I was talking about. Maybe because of the broken lock I was able to slide them apart and together. I will try and join them and then install as one unit tonight.

Put in a new window to replace a cracked one on the drivers side. Also found a latch that has the springs intact and works great. I am having trouble attaching the arm that connects to the lock mechanism and is mounted on the door - to allow inside door opening and locking. There is a metal tab on the latch that is supposed to line up with a slot on the arm. However, the orientation of the tab and the slot are not such that I can slide the arm on. Is there a trick to this?? Is there a particular order to put things back together and I am just not doing the puzzle right?? Thanks in advance.....!

The Cokers ares the same size as the tires were on when I bought the car 235/75-15. I was not getting this wobble before the new tires - I'll go back to Les Schwab tomorrow - a payed a few bucks more for free balancing and rotation....

The front end was OK but has gotten worse with the new tires - I do not understand this they are the same size and type - radials as before, but now I have a bad wobble at 60 or so.... May have the balance re-checked ??? I agree the price is high - supposedly this *IS* the old school shop with the guy who has been around for ever ( I actually worked in this town 20 years ago and brought my car there to get aligned) the person who referred me I trust implicitly! The owner of the shop said that I could get away with not doing this - but I have the $$ now and the wobble was not nice....

Bought some Coker wide whites - love the look! Asked tire shop to align - couldn't do it car was too old for their computer. Got a referral to a shop from a builder/fabricator friend. They would not take my money but gave me an estimate to do new kingpins, upper & lower control arms and then align for $1100 w/o parts. Question: I priced things out at Bernbaum at around 600 plus shipping thats with springs. Read a few threads here on the forum and saw Kantor mentioned and priced out about the same parts king pins control arm shafts, bushings, pins and springs for around 680 plus shipping. Any reason why I should pay the extra $80??? Talked with the shop about doing disk brakes while they are there..... they quoted me another hour at $135 if the kit I give them is basically plug & play. So now the next big question is which conversion kit? I have been leaning toward scarebird because I have 15" rims and they will supposedly work with them (however one post said some grinding of the calipers was necessary??) and they are supposed to fit with no drilling .... extra fuss. Since Im doing this and doing it right - what about master cylinders? proportioning valves? Anything else Ive missed - Oh yeah money is an object/issue after a point....... So which part source? Which disk brake kit and......what else. Did think about doing this myself but I also have a model A project going and this is supposed to be my driver while Im doing that..........

OK - I am so often disappointed by the lack of info in my manual I avoid/forget to look - I was wrong second page of the suspension section has specs. the citation of the whole article is http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html Thanks for the info.... Turns out that the tech where I bought the coker tires can not even modify the computer it can only read from the database that starts in 1965. Called a friend who referred me to a shop that has been around before 52 and knows what there doing - problem solved

For a 1952 suburban with radial 235/74-15 Current tires are not worn given several hundred miles, but I would like to make sure I'm not ruined my new wife whites I'm purchasing. Shop says specs are not in their computer. I found these http://www.allpar.com/photos/vintage/history-photos/alignment/alignment-specifications.gif Are they correct? Any other sources??

http://www.mikescarburetor.com

I apologize in advance if I am hijacking this thread.... I am trying to problem solve a vintage air air conditioner heater where the heater is not working. Is there a diagram some where of how water flows through this engine? Is the hose on the back of the head an out let of hot water? I think the person who put the unit in, put the valve in the wrong hose?! I guess I could pull the hose and see, but this may be a little less messy.....Thanks in advance!!

Thought about NOS too when I read injector - not sure the stock brakes are ready for that boost???

Saw this on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-50-51-52-PLYMOUTH-CARBURETOR-INJECTION-PLATE-KIT-IN-BOX-1038-/361312980678?hash=item541fee8ec6&vxp=mtr took one off mine I thought it was a vacuum port but not sure....what is it for?

Agreed on both points, the engine could eventually go in my suburban & I could part it out Or I could turn it into an RV to use with my wife for travel when we retire (soon) Depends on what storage costs....

This can be mine with a pink slip for $600 what do you all think? My only real issue is space for it while I finish other projects..... May be becoming a hoarder????

I kept thinking about this and having the same problem, so I tried something different - So the stock gap is .028 and the Langdon plug is .060 so it is .032 longer - they plugs have the same reach. So I found spark plug washers, designed to move the position of the electrode. I used one that is .032 and now the plugs should be higher in the chamber and rotated to the position they were at with the .028 gap but have the bigger gap for the HEI. The car is running great!!

I think it is a 3/4 or 1 ton has dually wheels in the back - no bed & is that a 318 engine??

Thank you for the info!

Here is a photo

So the 2x1 are the Carters & the 2x2 ?????

Do these take two Carter one barrels?