normf@centurytel.net

I have 1953 B4B and it has a single wire fuel tank sending unit held in place by a lock ring. I've visually verified that the unit is defective and have temporarily repaired it and it now works, but is not likely to last. I am looking for a replacement and have round several universal models that can be made to fit, but the ohm ratings vary. Does anyone have the proper ohm values for the OEM sending unit. I need the high and low values....and then can select a replacement unit. I have reviewed the manuals I have but no values are provided. Normf@centurytel.net.

Rubbing alcohol is already mixed with water and is not anywhere near pure alky. For best results...use the product designed for de-icing .... such as HEET....I believe that is pure or near pure alcohol and combines with any water in your tank and than that combination combines with gasoline.

Merle, Thanks much for the NAPA part numbers for the axel seals and for the advice on the breather. The truck is in running condition and licensed and driven occasionally. I have another problem that has me stumped. The engine was overhauled and has approx. 11,000 miles since the O.H. New points, condensor, plugs, wires,rotor, cap, coil....and it starts very hard....cranks and cranks and the goes....runs good, smooth, normal, Carb had complete kit installed w/needle and seat and etc. New fuel pump..... I've messed with timing and that seems not to help..... Any ideas????? Norm

I have a 1953 B-4-B which is restored and now just taking care of a few squawks....one of those issues is the outer axel seal on the left side. Two issues are on my mind. First, does anyone have a part number or specification for that seal? Second....does anyone have a source for that part. Third, can anyone tell me if the brake backing plate needs to be pulled to replace that seal? Any help would be appreciated.

Not sure I'm doing this correctly, but here goes. I have 1953 B4B with 11K miles on the engine. Ignition system is new (wires, points, condesor, plugs, rotor, cap and coil) Was hard starting both cold and hot. Reset float level (was too low) Replaced the needle with one from a Holley carb with viton rubber tip..... there is a new fuel pump and the carb has been cleaned. Carb is a Chrysler Ball & Ball. Seems to be flooded on restarts when hot. Should there be a heat block between the carb and the maniforld? Any other ideas....runs good when running and cold starting is now decent. Fussy, but it does start with minimal cranking. Coil is new and there is good spark when hot..... Any other ideas would be great......really frustrated......

My work on a 1953 Dodge B4B is progressing much faster than anticipated as everything supports the 31,000 odometer reading....almost no hidden rust things coming apart without breaking bolts....etc. So, I'm in need or a set of shock soon...and a few calls around to auto parts stores yielded nothing. Can anybody give me a suggestion about a good source for them..........

I am restoring a 1953 Dodge 1/2 ton and have only three of the original wheel covers....and two of those are not all that good. Is there a source for reproductions? Or is there a good place to find good usable ones.....

Can someone suggest a good source for rubber parts for a 1953 pickup. I am specifically looking for a rear window...(single window) and right and left door seals.... I've checked Steele...and they have little for the Dodge..... Norm

Merle, Next time you get over this way....stop in. Would be a pleasure to chat with someone with similar interests.... Not much of a sports fan...so really don't go to Rookies. But there are a couple of other places in the area for a bite and coffee...or ??? Don't care to put my phone number out on the system here, but send me an e-mail at normf@centurytel.net and I'll send you my phone number.......

Merle Checked your profile and see you're in or near Waukesha......then you must hunt over here or travel hear from time to time....as Rookies is less than a widely known place....... Norm

Grey Beard The book by Don Bunn has been promised to me by two friends who have it.....one was the prior owner of the truck I have...and the other was a friend who was going to buy the truck but didn't......so I should have it shortly. I don't have a lot of needs as the truck has 30,000 miles and is complete except for two items: a parking light lens and the metal strips in the box. The lens should not be too tough and I found a source for the metal separater strips already.....plus I have a used set on my garage floor....other than that, the restoration work should be quite straight forward.......very little scrounging for parts.......emblems, etc....as it is that good....... Does anyone have a source for the fiberboard used for interior panels......or any suggestions at all about those. The originals are there, but tacky......and WILL be replaced....at least I have the patterns........

Zeke, Thanks for the picture.......I went searching for color charts and found a sheet with color chips on the web that shows a Charlotte Ivory for 1953 and if it isn't the same as your wheels, I'll be super surprised. At any rate the comparison makes me think that the quest is over. I have a good color photo printer and that will render the pictures pretty close to the color on the screen...so will be close if not perfect....that can be easily matched in any paint I want. Thanks much for the extra effort, it is appreciated. Norm

Merle That would be fun.....where are you located? If you know about Rookies, you've got to be a frequent traveler through the area or live somewhere out this way. I live just East of the village of Mazo on the corner of East Hudson Road and S. Mathewson Road.....easy to find.... By the way, I located a color chart that shows a Charlotte Ivory in a listing for 1953 trucks.......and looked at that and then the pictures that were sent....and I think that has to be the color....now I have something solid to work with as color names like Ivory or Red or Blue give you a sense but that's all. One chip will get you close. Would be a pleasure to meet you.......let me know where you reside........if your truck doesn't come up to roadworthy, I could come to you....I get out too seldom anyway. Norm

Zeke, I printed out the formula but not sure if it will be of value...if not mistaken, colorants vary from paint mfg. to mfg. I generaly use DuPont either enamel or ChromaBase...and not sure that the formula will interpret into DuPont mixing system. Is there any way you can think of one could get a color chip..with a chip I can do comparisons in DuPont's master color book....and come up with paint that will be exact....or super close...... The formula is the perfect system.....but only if it cross references from one paint mfg to another...... If I'm wrong, let me know........ I think it came from Don Bunn, himself. I had it mixed at a local Carquest store and it appears to be an exact match for the original wheel color. Zeke YS410N CC:H Chromapremier SS Alt: 1 801J HSWHITE 154.8 843J BRIGHT YELLOW 245.1 807J LS BLACK 289.4 853J RED ORANGE 293.9 52320N BINDER 499.3 52330N BALANCER 526.0

I have a 1953 color chart but it does not show either a silver for the grill piece nor ivory for the wheels. Any place you know of that I can look at a color chart or color chips? As long as I'm going to try to be authentic...might as well do a good job.

Testing....to see how this works......

I recently acquired a 1953 Dodge 1/2 ton with 30,000 miles on it with an engine with less than a third of that since it was overhauled. A nice one to start with for a restoration. I want to do it in authentic colors and need some advice. The cab is red and so is the box, but some probing around suggest that the box was originally black. I am told that many or most came from the factory with the cargo box in black. Is that correct and if not, what is correct? The engine block appears to have been painted silver or with aluminum paint. What is the correct color? The wheels as well as the "Job Rated" badge in the center of the grill are now gray. What color would the wheels have been from Dodge when it was new? What color would the badge have been?