DodgeDan

Here is a vid showing my vacuum. How would you read these results? http://vid171.photobucket.com/albums/u308/dahoude/WP_20140930_10_16_29_Pro.mp4 Dan

I had posted the compression results in another post, so here they are again... #1 100 #2 105 #3 95 #4 100 #5 105 #6 105 The vacuum gauge needle fluctuates wildly, I'd have to put it on again to see the exact numbers but I think it was bouncing from 10 to 20 inches, I'll get an exact reading for you and post it. I'll check and see what it does on increased idle too. No smoke or vapor, engine runs at temp, no overheating, no overflowing. I have a timing light, but it's one I had bought back in the 1980's for 12v cars of the day, will it work with my 6v positive ground? Dan

Yes, it has not been running right, and has just gotten worse. I have been trying to diagnose it for a while now. My compression is actually good. I figured maybe it was sucking air at the intake gasket, but even with the new gaskets it's still not right. I couldn't get a vacuum gauge on it before as there was no where to put one, but when I had the manifolds off I was able to put a fitting in the intake, now with the vacuum gauge telling the story I see a very sad tale... I'm thinking serious about calling it quits, cutting my losses and selling it, it's just getting to be more than I can handle. Dan

Does anyone know what kind of undertaking it would be to replace the valve guides? Any special tools required? Dan

Well, I got it all back together. New carb and carb gasket, all new manifold gaskets, new heat riser control spring, plus I put on a new muffler since I had the exhaust off and mine was shot. Started her up and she still runs pretty bad. I put my vacuum gauge on the new vacuum port fitting that I installed in the intake and the needle on the gauge is fluctuating wildly. I looked this up on a chart on how to use a vacuum gauge and it says that this points to loose or worn valve guides. So... this may be more than I am able or wanting to get into. This sucks... Dan

These look to be graphite, so I'll go with no sealer then other than on the threads into the water jackets. Dan

I am actually curious on the topic as well. Back in BOCES we were taught to only apply sealer to one side of the gasket. With the two manifolds that I will be putting back on soon, as well as the intake to exhaust gasket, do I need or should I be using any gasket sealer? I had planned on doing what I have always done and apply it to one side to hold the gaskets in place. I figured on using some Permatex #1 on the manifold to block flanges and #2 on the intake to exhaust. Just on one side. Any thoughts or recommendations? Also, how about the carb gasket? Dan

So I cleaned up and repainted both manifolds today. I need to order a new heat riser spring, then I'll be getting it all back together. Dan

Will do on the Permatex #2. Hey got another question... where is the bimetallic spring located that operates the heat riser plate in the exhaust manifold? Now that I have the manifolds off I wanted to check it and I'll be damned if I can see it? There is a metal plate inside the square center section of the exhaust manifold, there is a counter weighted lever on the outside that moves with it. No spring anywhere that I can see, shouldn't that plate open and close with manifold temp? *** I just read the tech section on heat riser and now I see why... mine is totally missing! *** Dan

Good advice, much appreciated! Dan

Okay I have them both off now. I was able to remove that plug in the intake too and replace it with a capped fitting so I can put my vacuum gauge on it now. I have a new gasket set, including the intake to exhaust manifold gasket, so now it's time to scrape and clean and prep the surfaces, I'm going to paint them up too while I have them off. I have silver high temp header paint for the exhaust manifold and high temp black engine paint for the intake manifold. Then when it's all back together I'll install the newly rebuilt carb. Thanks again for the help. Dan

Thanks guys, much appreciated. I have the exhaust pipe disconnected now and I am working on all the stud nuts. When I removed one it started to leak out coolant, it looks like two are into the water jackets? Dan

Hello, I am trying to remove the intake manifold on my '39 Dodge so that I can replace the gaskets in order rule out sucking air at the intake. I have all the brass nuts off the studs and the four bottom bolts out that bolt the intake to the exhaust manifold. Should this just pull/pry off now, or do I have to remove the entire exhaust manifold as well to get the intake off? Dan

Here's the vintage toolbox that I put together for the trunk of my '39 Dodge... Dan

Just checked the nuts Greg, and I got a quarter turn out of most of them. Gonna fire it up again tomorrow and tinker some more. Dan