Coronet1950

Okay maybe I am just confused a little bit. so for the tk5 conversion you use the 230 bellhousing, the flywheel, the pressure plate, the disk from the ranger and the throw out bearing/ slave cylinder from the ranger as well?

I might be using the ranger pedals after all. Isn't the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing on tk5? mine is. I didn't think you could use that on a 230 swap? I don't know I am still learning about everything I need for the conversion.

For right now I am just going to use the drums already on the dana 25 for the front and the drums for the ford 9 inch in back. This is going to be the definition of a true rat rod I only have about 100 bucks in this thing. I'll have to check it out. Is this what you are talking about?

Okay so I do have a 1950 coronet that I am currently building. I have a 318 that is going in it. I also have a 1960 willy's cj5 salvage car that I am currently working on the frame to accept a suicide front end. (t bucket style) I am putting the 230 flathead in jeep. I have a tk5 that is going to go behind the engine. The jeep did not have any pedals so I am going to find some that fit up to the firewall. My question is....Has anyone made their tk5 conversion a hydraulic setup? like a external slave cylinder to the fork? I want to keep my flatty I love it. It just doesn't suit my goals for the coronet. I would look just down right nasty exposed in a jeep rat rod though. Any info would be appreciated.

Okay thank you for the info.

Hey everyone, I have a 1950 Coronet that I am currently working on. My plans for the car are to swap to a 318 with auto trans. I will be installing a floor shifter and a cavalier rack and pinion. My question is about the steering column. Has anybody used a different steering column? I have seen pics but no write ups. I have heard about using a olds delta 88 column, but I was wondering about this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Tilt-Steering-Column-Manual-32-Street-Hot-Rod-Floor-Shift-No-KEY-/351335072072?hash=item51cd33c148:g:qO4AAOSw4SlV8zz9&vxp=mtr Is there a particular length that I need? are there any questions I need to be asking myself before I start this venture? thanks for the help.

Ok did a continuity test from point to point. ( did this with out the the little jumper wire attached to the bolt leading out to the wire to the coil) did what it was supposed to when points are closed the meter beeps and open the beeps stop. Great this was good. I hooked up the jumper wire along with the outside wire and did the test again. beeps constantly opened and closed. So, I put the distributer back in the car with the cap off. I unhooked the wire that is attached to outside of distributor and put a jumper wire from the jumper wire to the distributor side of the coil. turned the key and the points fired. The only thing I can think of is that the bolt the attaches the jumper wire and the wire leading to the coil is somehow grounding our the points, but it finally sparked!!!!

ok there is a red wire that was on here when I opened the distributor up. Is this suppose to be there???

I drove it out of the shop

does anyone have a pic of the inside of a iat 4011?

Ok replaced the little jumper wire. I am getting 6 volts to the points. With the key on opened up the points and no spark. I am getting voltage to the coil. New points and condenser. What the eff? The points should have sparked.

Yes there is a cover that can be slid down but there is also a cover for the hub and turn signal that won't budge

Ok I pulled my 1950 Coronet out of the shop, parked it, and went about my day. I came back to it and no fire. I have since replaced the points and condenser. No spark. The points are set to 0.20 ( checked numerous times) I then replaced the coil (duralast c809) no spark. I also replaced the rotor and cap as well with new plugs and wires. still no spark. with the key in the on position I am getting voltage from post to post on the coil. as soon as I crank the car it does not hit. no spark at the points. had to turn car off coil was getting super hot. I thought it might be a faulty coil so I exchanged it for another one. same issue. what the hell?

Some of these are shotty pictures so I circled where the bolt is coming out from behind the steering wheel into the ornament retainer ring.

the ornament retainer ring is definately bolted on from the backside of the steering wheel.