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roccaas

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    SE Georgia
  • My Project Cars
    46 SD
  1. I'm Savannah and SC Low Country - Muggy, must have AC!!
  2. Car looks to be a solid #2 Driver, but I'm not as up to speed on P15's as Model A's and Impalas, so some questions are in order, and thanks in advance for your help! Body: Solid, but where do I look for rust, specific to this 4 door, suicide rear door model? I'll have it up on a rack next week with a magnet, screwdriver and bright light. Briggs body, which is interesting because my '30 A Model Cabriolet is a Briggs! Paint: probably was drab green (possible ex Military). Now painted bright blue, I'd show pictures, but somebody would come down hear and bid against me for it! Some crazing, nothing that has to be done now, but polished, some touch up, still a solid #2 driver. Heater: Hoses are capped at firewall. Underdash motor seems complete, but doesn't isn't wired in. I can do the hoses, is there a way to add power to the motor to ensure it works without damaging the motor before I buy the car? 3 on the tree. Solid, slow, seems to be some adjustment needed to find Neutral between 1 and 2. I'm assuming this is adjusting the linkage at the bottom of the steering flag shaft like all other 3 on the tree's? Brakes are VERY heavy. Car stops straight, but with ALOT of effort. I'll pull the wheels and brakes to ensure that they are at least undamaged. I understand the physical force necessary for a non-power brake car, especially of this size/weight, but this is a like trying to stop a 4000 pound Model A with mechanical brakes. Is it expensive/worth it to go to power/hudraulic brakes? Still a driver, and I'm not a stickler for NOS original under the hood, etc. Engine: revs willingly. I'm assuming its original or close enough. I know Stovebolts, and I'm assuming the 217 @ 95 hp is just as easy to work on and find parts, and should last if taken well care of. CAN THIS BE AIRCONDITIONED? I don't see anything on the big AC sites for a 46 Mopar. Can you retrofit something? Build the brackets to allow the conversion of a Chevy or Ford product. Headliner is drooping in places. Upholstery tacky spray? Interior is in nice shape, just general cleaning of the upholstery and carpets. I really like the angled foot rest and robe hanger for the HUGE back seat. Tires are excellent -wide hite walls. Kuhmo tires I think. The clear plastic hood ornament is badly fractured. This would be a part I'd want to light up well, and to be clean and clear. I'm assuming 6 volt positive ground? Generator and Starter look original or at least UOS. Radio doesn't work. Can they be fixed? I don't hang new radios in old cars, AM is just fine with me. Some of the glass is delaminating. Doesn't need to be fixed now, but eventually. Has a working spotlight. Are parts available to keep these going? Has "Cat Eye" amber driving lights, not hooked up. I'm assuming they were controlled from the center of the dash? Easy enough to RELAY a circuit for Cat Eyes. Has aluminum(?) bumpers, i'm assuming from post war transition back to civilian vehicles? Vacuum windshields are slow to start and stop. I'm assuming a rebuilding of the control circuit? Parts and Vendors in general. We're blessed with great Ford and Chevy parts houses: correct stuff, people who know what they're talking about, willing to help. Rust, still the biggest issue. A medium intensive inspection on the ground did't show any rust, the lift is the final arbitrator! What do solit #2 drivers usually go for. I can't find anything on eBay or Hemmings that hasn't been hot rodded in order to compare. Thanks guys!
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