bondvagabond

Truck has been on hold for a while, getting a ton of overtime at work. After fuel theft I still get no start after adding fuel. Disconnect fuel outflow line at fuel pump and crank over, no fuel comes out of fuel pump. Blow air from pump inflow back to tank, get nice bubbles. Put vaccum pump on pump out line and pull fuel through pump fine. Only two hypothesis I can think of. 1. When diagnosing the no start from fuel theft I somehow reinstalled pump so that pump arm not hitting cam correctly. 2. My fuel pump just randomly died on me, in some way I cannot see, rubber parts looked good to me. What do yall think? Anyone have a part number to a cheap 6v electric pump I could buy as a cheaper diagnostic alternative to a new mech fuel pump? I hate to buy another since mine looks fine. I had toyed with getting an electric ine anyway to improve hand crank starting.

Fire departments retire fire hoses frequently, if you live in a rural area they have smaller trucks designed to get out into the boonies and use smaller hose. It works great. I think it is a requirement that you be a car nut to be a firefighter too.

Thanks guys. Got hub nuts done, freed up e brake cable, went to go take it for maiden voyage, no start. Drat I say and tear into it. Has spark, fuel pump pumps on bench, lines clean, hmmmm. Bong bong bong. Someone had stolen my gas. Kinda releived it was $15 in gas instead of a bum fuel pump. Will throw some in tommorow and fire her up.

What are the torque specs for front spindle nuts? Rears I found 142-150, but could not find front.

Will this pto box fit my tranny? Its a 4 on thefloor. http://klamath.en.craigslist.org/pts/4188643983.html

Got brake lines swapped, then had to wait for above freezing temps to check radiator for leaks with water before filling with radiator fluid. No leaks so good to go. Got a bag of mmo set up to trickle down the e brake cable to try to free it up. Gonna make up a drive shaft for my cuz friday, while he whips up a couple of hand cranks for me. Got the spare tire aired uo to replace a dud one, just need to sswap those and can take er for a victory lapnaround the block. Pretty excited.

Ooh, decisions decisions. Thanks for those guys. My cousin has a pipe thread tap so my other option is to drill out the drain hole and tap for a pipe fitting. Got the brake lines replaced. Noe just need to put wheels back on then can test radiator with water and fill with coolant and take her for her first drive in over a decade.

To be period correct you must sew it on your mothers old 1940s singer :-) She has given up on it breaking so she can buy a new one...

Thanks for the clarification young ed. Anyone have one of those floating around they'd sell me? Or if you whitewashed my fence id trade you my ultra rare heaterless version :-)

Promised water pump pics, I am not seeing any heater hose hookup spot.

@rodfru2u The old cover was real brittle, didnt think it would stand that. I just measured the width and length of the seat and figured that the radius on the corners was 6 inches, so just found a 12" mixing bowl and used that as a stencil for the corners. Seat is 56x21" back is 56x21" top edge of back is just a 4 inch strip wrapped around, front edge of seat is 6" strip wrapped around. Its pretty easy, just use those dimentions I used and add 1/2 inch all around for seam allowance. Pm if you would want me to wip one up for you. Gotta get my batch of hand cranks made first, then maybe ill do a batch of seat covers.

So my b2b came with 16 inch wheels in the front, 15 inch wheels in the back. I am picking up some used studded tires for the wifes car and the rims that come with are off a crown vic. Would these fit my truck? Or are they too wide. I think they are 5x4.5 and 16x7 with "standard" offset whatever that means according to the internets. Thanks again for all the help guys, it would be nice if I could get "free" rims to get me to 16" all around.

Was too dark when I got home, will get water pump pics tomorrow. I did whip up this little seat cover today though. Now need to find my hog ring plyers.

So what I thought was a heater hose plug on mybwater pump was just another mounting bolt. I dont have any factory line connections for my heater except the one at the back of the head. Could I solder a bronze barbed fitting to my bronze radiator for the other connection?

There is my shifter slop. Will weld this up and grind it smooth. I love it when my old junk shifts like a german sports car.

Cant find my caliper but 3/8 open end wrench fits on tubing. Here is a pic, dont see any writting on it.

It looks like I have only one unused plugged hole on my water pump. Is that where I tap in for my heater line? What about the other line, it goes to the top of the head somewhere right? The heater I sourced was an "original aftermarket" one from a 1953 dodge on craigslist. The hoses comming out of the core are smaller diameter than I am used to for heayer core. Ive got a bunch of standard heater hose already from another project, any slick ideas on reducing it down to clamp to my heater core tubing?

No, they were not leaking or corroded so I blew them out with compressed air then flushed with brake fluid. My wheel bearings and rear wheel cylinders were all pretty, so someone had been through it at some point.

Got the front wheel cylinders rebuilt and the brake shoes and drums re mounted. One brake line will need replaced, so have all three rubber ones coming in the mail, on the theory that if one is shot the others are tired.

These ones were bonded, gonna try riveting. Will get new ones if this doesnt work.

I figured out what was up with my front brake. The non riveted friction matereal had separated from the metal base. My neighbor across the street is an old hotrodder. He is gonna advize me on riveting the material back on. If that doesnt work, it looks like roberts has new front pads.

Got the brakes bled, nice firm pedal no leaks anywhere and when I pulled the rear wheel cylinders apart they looked great inside. Got the rears adjusted nicely, but when I go to adjust the front brakes I cant get them to release. I need to pull the front drums and see what is going on. I am so close to having it drivable! If you looked straight down at the top of the transmission, my shifter has play rotationally like the hands of a clock. Is it just a pin I think I see on the passenger side of the shifter tower that prevents this motion and I can just pull my shifter and put a new pin and or weld in the wear in the slot the pin moves in to ccorrectthis play?

Yeah I havent had a problem with not bench bleeding yet, nock on wood. I Lube em up pretty liberally with brake fluid while I'm assembling them so maybe that's why. And I drip less brake fluid in my face when I don't. :-)

No, thats to keep from having to push an air bubble through the whole break line right? I didnt bench bleed my 76 scout or my 63 mercedes so figured id throw it on, since I didnt happennto have any fresh dot 3. If it doesnt work well it only takes 5 min to pull now that I cleaned up the mounting bolts.

Happy turkey day everyone. Got the master cylinder rebuilt and reinstalled. Dont have a fresh brake fluid so may have to wait till tomorrow to bleed and find leaks