oilslickwillie

Thanks, I will take a look at it today when I get home.

I guess I should have given more information. This is a tag under the hood on the drivers side right below the red Chrysler tag located on the firewall.

Can anyone decifer the following serial number off a 1941 Plymouth Coupe: P11 9370TPC Thanks for any information.

Tim, thanks for your help on the relay for my headlights. I wired it in with an inline fuse and it works great, no heat at the switch fuse at all. Of course, when I finished wiring it and tried it the first time, both the headlights and park lights came on at the park light switch knob. I knew that was not right and also the switch became very hard to pull out. So, I pulled the light switch, took it completely apart, shined up all the contacts, white greased the switch slide box inside the switch, put the four springs and contact plate back in and it works great. Now everything is working as it should. Two of the small contact springs somehow got pulled out of their bases and that was shorting the switch. It may have just been the dirty switch from the beginning. At least no heat at the light switch fuse at all. The light switch is easy to open and repair so I should have tried that first but I like the relay idea even more. Again, thanks Tim. Jon

I figure the relay will take the heat off the fuse since it is basically bypassing the switch. I agree, a new NOS switch would be fine but I have been having a hard time finding one unless I want to give $65.00 plus shipping. As for being original, that does not bother me since the 41 coupe has a 53 Dodge engine in it already. I just want to drive it. I basically built streetrod and they are easier to work on and the parts are simple to find.

30 amp fuse. I did discover the previous owner used a small gauge wire to the headlights, that may be part of the problem. I am going to try and wire in a relay to the headlights and that should bypass the fuse and I will wire an inline fuse to the headlights itself.

Tim, thanks. Today I took your advise and checked it out further. I pulled the wire marked H on the light switch and of course the headlights would not work so I was sure I had the right wire. If I understand you, the relay should go between the H and the dimmer switch. Do I need to have a wire from the battery or the hot side anywhere in this wiring. The relay I purchased is 6 volt and has 3 contact points on it. Also, the previous owner of the 41 Plymouth re-wired under the hood on the contact where the wiring goes to the headlights and I think he used to small a gauge wire, that probably contributed to the hot fuse isse. I hope this relay idea works. Thanks, Jon

Tim, that makes sense. Do you have a wiring diagram for me to do this. Not sure which wire on the headlight switch to use. Only reason I say this is I thought there were more than one power wire coming off the switch (i.e. tail lights, headlights, etc.) This is a light switch on a 1941 Plymouth Coupe.

Took the light switch out and clean the entire thing, contacts, wiring, connectors, fuse holder in and out and the fuse holder still heats up with the headlights on. Don't know what to try next. Need to give it a couple days before I go crazy trying to figure this out. The grounds look okay also. ???

I got up early today and did some more troubleshooting. I grounded the headlight switch, pressed the brake pedal and the fuse holder only got a little warm. Not a brake wiring problem! Next, I pulled the light switch to park and held on to the fuse holder and it got a little warmer but I could still hold on to it without burning myself. Next, I put the light switch to headlights on low beam and the fuse holder stayed warm but I could still hold on to it. Pressed the dimmer switch to high beam and within 3 seconds the fuse holder was so hot I had to let it go. My guess it’s the dimmer switch or ground on the headlights. Do you think I may be on to something. I will clean the connections today and see what happens. Do any of you think I'm on the right path on this problem? Thanks.

Thanks 41 Coupe. I will give that a try tomorrow and will post what happens. What if I bypass the dimmer altogether, if the fuse does not get hot that would tell me if the dimmer is bad, right? Jon

1941 Plymouth Coupe. After reading several posts on here about dimmer switches, I tried what others had recommended of pressing the dimmer switch on and off several times. Doing that made both my high beam and low beam lights work as they should. Thought I had the problem licked but found out that where the fuse goes in the headlight switch, got so hot you could not touch it. Now don't know where to look to fix that problem. Any suggestions on what to check next. All the lights work now, just the fuse holder gets to hot to touch.

Thanks for the info. I did get the switch out of the dash as suggested. Cleaned the contacts and bought a new 30 amp fuse that was just about 1/16" longer. Got the lights to work all except the headlights. Finally figured out that the brights work, but not the low beam. I guess it may be a bad dimmer switch on the floor. I don't think the headlight switch cares if the headlights are high or low beam so thats why I think its now the dimmer switch. Everything works, just have to drive with the brights on. If I dim my lights, they go off, thats not good. Will have to try and locate a dimmer switch next I guess.

Drove home yesterday and now my headlights, tail lights, brake lights, interior, all, do not work on my 1941 Plymouth Coupe. I pulled the headlight switch knob on and off several times and occasionally the park lights would come on, no headlights. Then later doing this none of the lights would work. I pulled the fuse located in the headlight switch to check it and it looked okay. I did notice that a very small piece of aluminum looking piece was inside the fuse holder. Don't know where that came from or why it was there, unless previous owner used it to make a fuse longer???? Does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong. I tried to remove the switch but don't know how the headlight knob comes out of the switch. Other old cars I have owned had a button on bottom to remove the shaft but can't find one on this switch. Can someone inform me how this shaft comes out before I can remove the bezel? Thanks.

The engine is out of a 53 Dodge pickup. Not sure about the tranny.

I have a 41 Plymouth Coupe and I believe the engine and transmission is from a Dodge truck, not sure of the year. Can anyone recognize a transmission with these numbers: On left side of transmission is 853853-3 also has a J 31. On the tailstock is the following: 853880-3. I tried looking these numbers up but did not find them. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the tip, I will do that. Just got out of the hospital and will do that when I can.

My coupe shifts okay into 1st and 1st to 2nd, but at times does not want to go into 3rd. If I shift back to 2nd and try again, it usually works okay. Sometimes I double clutch and it works okay that way. Could this be a linkage bushing problem, lubrication problem, or what? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

My coupe shifts okay into 1st and 1st to 2nd, but at times does not want to go into 3rd. If I shift back to 2nd and try again, it usually works okay. Sometimes I double clutch and it works okay that way. Could this be a linkage bushing problem, lubrication problem, or what? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.