fortunateson

Thanks for the pics, they should help. The Ellis is different than the Chrysler intake and the carbs mount 90* to the usual placement so I'll probably have to make an adapter to re-position them.

That last picture is looking pretty close. Any chance of closer, detail pics a little lower down? Thanks!

Well I've had it for a few years now. Stumbled onto it on EBay; classic case of being categorized incorrectly. Boom, it became mine!

Thanks for the pick. However, that application uses the throttle pivot off th ehead whereas I want to use the truck linkage that works off the back of the bell housing.

Haven't been on this forum for a few years but now I need some advice... I have '42/46 Fargo half ton pu. I want to install a dual carb Ellis Intake on the engine. I've seen some installed where the throttle linkage travel across the engine but on my truck the linkage travels from the firewall. So any ideas? The problem is actually that the B&B carbs mount onto the intake 90* off to the way they mount on the stock intake. Right now I'm thinking of marketing an adapter plate but would rather not. All suggestions, as long as they are polite LOL, will be appreciated.

I hope I win a prize when I eventually get this thing going!!!! Four pages on getting a rather simple engine to start? Holy crow, I would never would have believed it except it's about me. Darn. Thank God I'm stubborn.

Well I have a tried changing the wires, the static timing procedure, checking for spark, carb is OK, new points, plugs, condensor, cap, wires are OK, spark seems to be good, may re-check compression but I believe they are 95#-115#, poured a little gas into carb with throttle open. The only thing I didn't do before posting was the static timing procedure. It ran before though it has always been a real bugger to start without excessive cranking. Do you feel my frustration? The timing chain and indexing were only straws I was trying to grasp. The distibutor adjuster plate that doesdn't lock into the block seems to be too far from mid-point in my opinion.

Don and everyone else, I really appreciate all the advice. A lot of it I had done before but no luck. When I first started looking into this problem I was suspecting the timing chain. I thought that the huge backfire may have had something to do with this. Anyway nothing good to report. All replacements tune-parts are quality pieces and even borrowed some to 2x check to see if perhaps the new pieces weren't functional. There was no difference. The other thing I wanted to cure was the persistent hard starting issue that I've had from day one. I guess I'll have to remove the front sheet metal to access everything as this truck has very closes confines. Now if the timing chain has skipped I would presume replace it as weel as the gears. Correct? If the issue is that the oil pump wasn't "indexed" properly what is the procedure to fix that issue? Pull the pump from the side of the block and re-align by a tooth either way until something good happens? (I have a manual that a buddy has been slow to return.) Would this issue cause the harding strating issue or would it not start at all? When I have the front sheet metal off I will try to do something re: the timing marks. By the way, what size nut holds on the crank pulley?

Well i'm back. Did the static timing thing and it work like a charm; I believe I'm at TDC on #1 cyl. Good spark. Still can't get it to even try to start. Th erotor points at 9:00 which is not what it is supposed to do as i believe it's supposed to be closer to 7:00. Checked carb again and it squirts real good. So... anybody have anything to add?If I'm out by 180 degrees the rotor would point at 3:00 correct? And if I am out 180 degrees how would I get the rotor to point nearer to 7:00? Thanks in advance.

Well i'm back. Did the static timing thing and it work like a charm; I believe I'm at TDC on #1 cyl. Good spark. Still can't get it to even try to start. Th erotor points at 9:00 which is not what it is supposed to do as i believe it's supposed to be closer to 7:00. Checked carb again and it squirts real good. So... anybody have anything to add?If I'm out by 180 degrees the rotor would point at 3:00 correct? And if I am out 180 degrees how would I get the rotor to point nearer to 7:00? Thanks in advance.

I just want to check something; if the distributor is out 180 degrees then would it not point in th eopposite direction/ Does TDC occur on compression and exhaust strokes as Ive been told? I forgot to mention that there is a rubber "o" ring on the base of the distributor where it enters th eblock. Good or bad? I'll try to post the model number of the distibutor as one of you may know if I am using the correct rotor. I read all the posts on the linked thread; lots of ideas. I'm going to 2x check the wire (16 gauge?) from the coil to the distributor to make sure th eterminals are well connected. Also wondering about "indexing" the oil pump. Maybe that might be an issue. Thanks for all ideas and encouragement.

All great suggestions. I have persistance but patience comes and goes. I guess I'm lucky I don't drink coffee (th ewife thinks my crotch is hot emough as is!). I'll read that linked post right now. Thanks to all.

I did check it with a wire in the inspection hole. I thought about that but the rotor is pointing at about 7:00 or 8:00 which is what the manual illustrates. If I was off by 180 degrees would it not point around 4:00 or 5:00? I may have exaggerated the spark distance it could be closer to 1/8". I appreciate you feedback. Keep them coming. Thanks.

Well I'm hoping to get back on this tomorrow. This engine has always been a bugger to start. I know the compression isn't perfect but I think it should be OK. The plugs are new as are the points and condensor.... I'll 2x check the spark (maybe reset the point gap down to 18 as an old mechanic suggested. The cap doesn't have any signs of carbon tracking or cracks. I have two rotors; one short the other long which I may swap in and out to see if that changes things. I'll also check how much gas is being pumped into the carb when pedal pumped. Maybe plug wires? I've been fighting this for quite some time but I'm still in there fighting. I want to try out the 3.54 rear gears I installed in place of the original 4.1 set but first I have to get it to run. Maybe I'll wave the cutting torch at it again! Thanks for all the suggestions.

I have a '42 fargo with an early 50's Cdn Dodge engine and I can't get the bugger to start . It used to but not very well unless I waived the cutting torch at it! I have a rebuilt carb, I set the distributor to TDC (as best as I could off of cyl. #6 since the timing marks oon the crank pulley must have been abducted by aliens), new points and condensor. I have about 1/4 inch spark when grounding the plug wire, compression when I checked years ago was about 105-115 across all cylinders without having two low clinders adjacent to each other. Battery is well ground. I'm going to 8x check that the carb is squirting correctly today. My only other thing to replce would be the coil but it is the type that is connected to the ignition switch through the firewall with on lead (-) going to the distributor along with the main coil wire. This has been a royal pain in th ebutt for so many years to the point I give up and wait months before going back to more misery. I need all the help I can get and so does my truck!!! Thanks.