ranchracer

Yep, old hammer and chisel method. I've attempted to source the proper size nut but to no avail. However, I did file down any raised areas. I loosened everything up again and started from scratch last night, this time tightening the inner nut JUST until there was no play pulling the drum from side to side. The washer lined up beautifully this time. Then tightened the outer nut so the hub could still be turned relatively easily by hand. Hopefully that will do the trick. I noticed someone else mention that they pack some bearing greese in the bearings. I'd had the same thought and packed a bit in there when I first reinstalled the inner bearing and seal. Figured it couldn't hurt. One more side to go! Eric

So, if we don't have/can't fine the proper socket, how do you know how much to tighten the nuts using the "shade tree mechanic method"? I flipped my locking washer both directions and still had to tighten the inner nut quite a bit in order to get a hole to line up. Makes it pretty difficult to turn, at least without the wheel mounted. Thanks, Eric

Where is that number usually located?

So that just adds to the mystery since my VIN does not match the VINs listed in the lookup tool. Additionally, all of the DMV registrations for the truck (they were all wrapped and taped to the steering column) list it as a 1949. Both the VIN and serial number are very clear on the plate, but the fact that they don't jive is very odd.

So the VIN plate on my B1FA (1 1/2 ton, series 1, 152" wheelbase, two speed rear axle) has a serial number of 86,501,474. Now looking at the Dodge section of the Model Chart & Serial Number Guide for Plymouth, DeSoto and Dodge vehicles, it shows the following for the B1F: 1948 trucks range from 86,506,501 - 86,511,545 1949 trucks range from 86,511,546 - 86,512,000 My truck's serial number does not fit into either of these two ranges, so I'm left wondering when and where my truck was built. I've also looked at the page, "Deciphering your 1948 - 1953 Dodge truck code" page (http://www.dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/vin/model.htm). The B1F is not even listed in this table. Am I missing something, or is my truck just a figment of my imagination? :-)

So I've got the rear drum off my '48 B1FA 1 1/2 ton and removed the inner nuts from the broken wheel studs. Now I need to get the old studs out and the new studs in. I know in a separate post someone mentioned pressing them out, but I don't have a press. Is there any other way to SAFELY get these out without damaging the hub or drum? Or am I better off searching for a local shop that can do it for me? Thanks.

I'm definitely planning on trying to make the BBQ. My truck actually sat in a barn not more than a few miles from you for 10-15 years before I got it! :-)

Anyone know of any good places to start looking for parts in the Norcal/Sacramento area? I recently acquired a '48 B1FA-152 that was used back in the 50s and 60s as a grape gondola in the central valley. In order for the trucks to negotiate the tight turns at the end of each row of grapes, they hacked the back portion of the frame off and shortened the stock 152" wheelbase to 108". I figured the cleanest and easiest way to restore my truck's original wheelbase is to find a non-runner with a straight frame, cut off the portion of the frame that I need, and weld it on to my truck. That way I get all of the cross members, mounting points, etc. I have a frame jig large enough to handle the truck so welding it up straight and true won't be a problem. I believe the "A" in my VIN also designates that it was originally a two-speed rear end if I'm not mistaken, so I'm also searching for one of those since at some point along the line mine got converted to a single speed. Anyway, I'm new to the forums so interested in any info on where to find parts in my area, local events, as well as any other PH owners around here. Thanks, Eric

I hauled my B1F on the standard UHaul double axle car trailer no problem. Although if its original 152" wheelbase hadn't been cut down to 108" for its duties as a grape gondola hauler in California's Central Valley in the 50's and 60's, that wouldn't have worked! ;-) You didn't mention your truck's wheelbase, but as long as it'll fit on the UHaul, you' should be ok on weight.

Just curious, what's the procedure for this? The last joker to tighten the lugs on my left rear over tightened them so badly that each and every wheel nut was stripped and just spinning on its stud. Our last resort was to cut them off, ruining the studs in the process, so now I need to replace the studs and nuts once I get my rear brakes rebuilt and am ready to put everything back together.