p24-1953

Had a professional come by and try the washer on the stud approach and had no luck with their work either. I'm going withe the mag drill press approach now. If I can get it to bite. I will pull the block and have the machine shop get it. Thanks for all the advice so far

Thank you all for the input. Los control, this is a continuation of the first post I have been doing the washer approach this week several times. I will attach it with a dremel tool this week. An family friend is bringing a mag drill press over this weekend and try a Diamond coated bit.

Same post been fighting it for another week and coming back for third round of advice

so the ongoing saga of the broken head bolts continues... soaked for a week and welded a nut on to both of them gently applied pressure and pop. broke them off flush with the block. ordered a set of reverse drill bits and slowly drilled a hole in the bolt to get a back out tool installed. it bit good. applied a little pressure and snap. broke the back out tool off flush with the block. what do i do now?

so the ongoing saga of the broken head bolts continues... soaked for a week and welded a nut on to both of them gently applied pressure and pop. broke them off flush with the block. ordered a set of reverse drill bits and slowly drilled a hole in the bolt to get a back out tool installed. it bit good. applied a little pressure and snap. broke the back out tool off flush with the block. what do i do now? pull the entire block and take to a machine shop? i cant remember how or ( been 8 years) does the entire front sheet metal come off in one piece on a 1940 pt105 or do i need to remove fenders, liners, grill and radiator trim all separately? at a loss what to do next, other than drive it off a cliff.

Farmer Jon. Thanks for the guide I will adjust it this week and let everyone know how it goes.

Tonight leaving the car show I could not get it into reverse and second was hard when the car was running. Clutch was fully depressed, no grinding just wouldnt move into gear. Turn the car off and I can get all 4 positions if I wiggle it around. Once it goes In reverse the first time I can easily shift between reverse and forward. Does this sound like a clutch issue or a linkage issue? Luckily I just put it in neutral and had the 14yr old push me back and then took off in 1st then 3rd

Well it looks like you're right. Pulled the points and it looks like this metal Spring was not attached firmly to the point so it was slipping loose. Reinstalled it better and it runs great. Thanks for your help

I changed the points condenser, coil and replaced the fuel filter on the truck. It was running fine but it had been about 5000 miles so I thought while I was busy changing the oil i would do a little preventative maintance. That was a mistake. Timing is set to 4btdc, points set at 20. After this work I have a miss at higher rpms. The truck now tops out at 40 to 45. It honestly feels like I hit the rev limiter in a modern car. You can hear it cutting out. Drop below 40 it purs along fine. Before this work 55 was not out of the picture. I rechecked the points and timing. Still had it. Changed the timing to 0. And set points at 18. Still there. Put the old coil back on, old condenser and old fuel filter. No change still there above 40. This is not like a lack of fuel. Its not surging it just starts popping and looses power. Any thoughts?

I see several with my engine year and size. Is there a way to determine off the engine number?

I know our cars used both types. Is there a known point when they switched from the rope seals to the newer style? I have a leaking rear seal on my 53/hydrive and would like to have the parts before I start tearing it apart. My local napa is out of either and rock auto dosent have them? I'm guessing Robert's or dcm is my only option?

Mine is a george asche rebuild. He mated a overdrive to a hydrive and I thought it had a lock out on it to prevent engaging the first gear engagement. There was no cruching or popping. So I'm hoping it is nothing serious. I wonder if the linkage was off and I need to check to make sure the od cable us all the way in also.....

Took the car to the wash the other day and when I tried to leave I had a hard time going into reverse. After trying a few times if finally dropped in and I backed up. Drove home and pulled into the garage. The entire drive I thought about what could bind up the linkage. I jacked it up and crawled underneath and on my way down I noticed the three way switch was in the on position on my overdrive underneath the dash.( I must of hit it cleaning) When I flipped turn it back to the auto position it dropped right into reverse. I took a quick trip around the block and I never really notice if it dropped into over drive. ( but I might not have got it up high enough to switch over). So what damage did I do? What are the signs of damage and how do I fix it? Would the damage show up in reverse or in overdrive?

Does anyone know the size of the fender script clip or is it a speed nut?

Got new 2/0 cables last night so I will put them on and let everyone know how it goes.