martin67

I will try pulling the drums off and getting them ballanced, also tempted to try a shortened steering arm from the box.

Thanks for that. I tried more toe in which was fine until I slowed down then it got the shakes up with each wheel taking it in turns to fight for forward direction. A bit hairey when you are approaching a corner at speed!

Sounds good but we are not allowed those modern additions, the car must be as it would have been if it was made up into a race special in 1938.

I use the car for mostly hillclimbs and circuit racing. The steering is in all round good condition, it is as you could imagine much lighter than the original car, original 38 Plymouth front axle running radial tyres. The only thing that I can think og is the king pin inclination (castor angle) being a bit much at 6 degrees although the steering arm from the box is quite long and maybe this is setting up a multiplying affect? Peter.

Hello from Oz. My 38 Plymouth special has a wandering problem. I have the toe in set at 2mm and the castor as far as I can tell is at 6 degrees. The steering is VERY light and it turns into the corners ok but when you are going as fast as possible down a straight it will not keep a straight line. My thinking is that the castor should be around 4/5 degrees however I am not all that experienced with the car as I have not long owned it. Would greatly appreciate any input. Kind regards Peter.

Have run out of time getting the car ready for a hillclimb on Sunday, so it will just have to do as it is. I havent long had this car and the middle carb is a bit lower in vaccum, one front brake is a bit slow in coming off, but all in all it is going pretty quick hopefully will keep up with the field or a bit better. Thank you all for your help.

Entered a hill climb next sunday, proof is in the pudding I guess!

Thanks for that info. Without air cleaners it seems much better, so there in lies the problem.

Hi, I am having trouble with my old race car running rich. Runs three carter BBR-1's I have not had much experience with these carbies and I was wondering what effect dropping the float bowl level slightly would have?

Hi, I was hoping that someone could help me with some cam profiles for a 230 I am intending to use this engine in my historic race car. Needs to have enough torque to pull out of the corners yet develop as much power as possible also needs to rev fairly high to get the flexibility between gears.

And then there is the Ford. Ugly, very fast - handling? brakes?? The concept behind purchasing the Plymouth was to replace the Ford as it handles much better and is more comfortable. But first it has to go much faster! Regards Peter

Sorry I do not have any other photos of the Plymouth, but if this works one of my other cars a 39 Riley special - pretty and quick!

Thank you all for your input, it has been most helpful. Peter

Thankyou for your input. The car has a 23inch block and is log booked as a 3300cc 79.4 x 111 bore and stroke At the moment it is far from home at my son in laws place, I have driven it on the circut for a practice once and it handled pretty well but did not have much go and competition is fierce these days hence the need for more speed. I am still on the hunt for a25inch block and one will turn up somewhere. Most others who are competing are using long motors with a reground cam shaved head and tripple carbs,but whatever we must only use period external bits, ie carbies etc.

I hope that this works!