Paneleer

I have the panel truck, the pillars are rusted but received a not-so-good repair in a previous life, what is the correct width of the pillars where they meet the front floor? I measure out 56 inches between the pillars, and there is a slight drop, the bracing installed must have been to hold the roof up..... see... and here too

have some severe rust where the pillars meet the almost non-existant floorboard. There are previous patches in place and they appear to be holding the roof at height. I measure 56 inches between the pillars at the floor..... is this correct?

Updated 24DEC11

The panel has a temporary shelter, more of a campsite than a home, it is once again sheltered from the elements. I am aware the best way to store a vehicle is with the fuel tank full to prevent condensation and corrosion. After the 25 years this truck sat, it must have been full. I noticed a bit of driplets, and the unmistakable stench of old gasoline, and upon looking under the truck noticed the fuel tank leaking. First order of business, get the tank off, before any further progress could commence. In clearing out the spare parts in the back of the truck I found the original pair of seats. The passenger seat is in relatively good condition while the drivers seat was a home building material donor for whatever nested in the glovebox. I do not plan on using these seats, since I am not doing a restoration, I will post them in the for sale forum. With the panel truck in its temporary home and cleaned out enough to get a view of the required work it is immediately apparent the pillars will need attention before the body can be removed from the frame. In a previous life someone made an attempted repair. An "L" of steel and a few bolts: The right side The left side So, for my first question to the Pilot House group, what is the correct distance for the base of the pillars to meet the floor? I measure 56 inches from pillar to pillar inside the cab. If I need to spread this a bit before affecting repairs, better to know in advance. Also, the wood floor is beyond repair, but it has buckled upward in the center. It obviously cannot just be pushed down to sit flat. Is it possible when they cut the wheel wells from the rear they compromised the integrity of the floor system, creating enough pressure to buckle the board up? And from all of us here at "daPaneleer's" - Happy Holidays....Chanukkah, Christmas, Rhamadahn, Tet, Kwanza, and the Winter Solstice, whichever suits your beliefs. (forgive the spelling - corrections accepted)

posted in the DPETCA: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=30309 the thread on this truck will be kept there

The 89 Dakota will become part of our service fleet, since it is too nice for scrapping, and our 4 van fleet will benefit from the addition of a pickup. Donor hunt resumed, and we hit paydirt, a 96 Dakota Sport with a case of terminal cancer. For under $750, the Dakota made its way from Cincy OH to GA to become the driveline for my panel. It is a V6/auto Dakota Sport, just what I want for a power mill, and the short wheelbase will not require a chassis shortening, much better suited to the role of an organ donor. This victim is to be unplugged from life support on 14JAN12. Anyone in the state of Georgia, or surrounding states, that wishes to come pull a fender or panel, let me know. If you have any need of Dakota odd parts or such, contact me before the strip off day, if they are available we can send them to you, or come play peel the pickup and take them home with you. Progress on this project will not take years (hopefully) and will have to be time as time permits, I work for a living.

Tell me what you need, and if it less than 70lbs, USPS will flat rate ship it if it fits in their box

Bud did it Poorboy did it and before the one voice that always claims a subframe weld on is better than attempting a frame swap chimes in, we have heard it! As I searched frame swap threads, your "rubber stamp posting" claiming it is not a valid option always appears. We have all been witness to your opinion. Thanks anyway. For anyone that has good info on this endeavor, I am more than open to hearing from you, you may contact me through this site. I have source a 96 Dakota sport, 108" wheelbase. Has a good running 3.9 and a strong trans, good brakes, ac etc. Just has some rusted rockers and wheel wells. Since the body is insignificant, it is a donor, in the name of science of course. I think we need a new classification called "Graft Rods". I have read more than a few threads where others, like me, opt for the smooth ride of the newer chassis, but, do not feel the need to build a 720hp engine to power it around town as a near daily driver. Old looking bodies get grafted on to newer chassis or components thereof, and the owner has a newer vehicle ride, but retains the older vehicle look. So poorboy (I loved your coupe project and how well it was detailed) and bud, please, feel free to contact me, I would enjoy sharing in your knowledge. daPaneleer

and THAT is about the extent of personal info I will post on the open internet. I am not opposed to receiving a private message of introduction from any member here, and if warranted, release my personal information to them via a private message. Since EVERYTHING you ever type on the internet lives forever and remains a searchable item, I am more cautious of my postings, and how they link back to me and my personal life.

After months of searching, and looking at more than a few rust buckets, I found the object of my desires. I found a 1948 Dodge panel truck that has been tucked away for approx 25 years! The last time this vehicle changed owners was approx 17 years ago. It was relocated from being tucked away in a barn in PA to a warm and cozy garage in VA. Sold as a donor to provide a drivetrain for a B1B pickup, this panel was in too good of condition to just become scrap metal, and the owner at the time tucked it away for future restoration. After he then spent 13 years retoring his pickup, with parts from this panel, the panel sat for four years before he opted to part with it. For the miniml price of $500, I purchased this panel truck, and hauled it to GA. ____________________________________________ _______________________________________________ My idea for this panel is to have the body rest on a newer chassis/driveline. I have sourced a 1989 Dakota as a donor, and hopefully, this panel will slip over the Dakota underware. Here is a photo of how it looked when it was brought home.......CLICK HERE I have most of the major components that have been removed. The nose, windshield, rear fenders, and all three pieces of the hood. About 25 years ago, someone cut the rusted portions of the body away, and it was left with the salt-induced rust cut out. A little sheet metal and bondo (yeah, I know, resin) and the body is back to its 1948 beauty. The roof has never been buckled, the drip rails are not rusted, and all four doors open and close as designed. I look forward to my end result, a smooth riding and driving truck with updated geometry and power rack & pinion steering with disc brakes, and a really cool looking outfit it gets to wear!