pcxt21

Hi all, this engine was recently rebuild, i did all the final assembly, crankshaft was polished along with sealing face for RMS on rear journal, mains Mic'd and plasti-gauged in spec during final assembly. This leak is the only issue ive had during and after break-in.

Yes i've been orienting the seal with the open side of the lip in, ive been using the included side seals with a bit of sealant to hold them in place but my leak is definitely from the center of the seal its self, not from around the cap.

Hi all as the title suggest I'm struggling with getting my molded 2-piece brummer style rear main to actually seal on my freshly rebuilt 251. On my first 2 attempts i used RTV between the seal haves as is usually suggested for later v8 and i6s that use this style of seal with no success. I still get a steady drip from the seal (Best Gasket 3675) so clearly I'm doing something wrong. My reprint of the service manual only has some basic instructions for a single piece version of the seal that seems to be discontinued, so i ask what is the best practice for successfully installing these style seals in our engines? Should i lube it with assembly grease? Or use glycerin soap? I'm guessing the ends of the seal need to be dry but should i be lining them up with the face of the bearing cap or rotating them so they sit inside a cap? Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Hi all just wanted to wrap up this thread, as D35 and Dodgeb4ya suggested I installed a speedi sleeve and a modern SKF seal which completely solved my leak issue 1000 miles later and shes still bone dry. Thank you all for your assistance and feedback!

D35 i think your correct, i closely inspected the sealing surface on the drum and noted a small groove that even after a light polish still caught my nail. I'll double check that your suggested speedi sleeve and seal will fit my m6 and report back!

Sorry i should have specified, I'd need the C-3105 or equivalent.

I am aware of the miller tool for installation, but so far i haven't been able to acquire it. Based on its description its just a regular seal driver that has its out lip extended so you cant over-set the seal. If anyone happens to have one can you maybe post some pictures or measurements of it? I have access to some basic machine tools and at this point id probably just as well turn my own!

Hello all, I've got a 1950 Chrysler Windsor, 251cu engine and m6 semi-auto transmission. I just recently finished up an engine overhaul and got it back on the road, but im having trouble with a leak at the tailshaft of the trans where the parking brake drum splines into the output shaft. I've replaced the seal twice now but after both times its begun leaking again shortly thereafter. My first attempt i drove the seal flush with the housing and upon reviewing the technical archives on this forum learned that was incorrect and the seal needs to be proud of the case to work properly, my second attempt i tried to just hammer the seal flush with the start of the splines on the output shaft but again, it leaks badly. Does anyone have a depth measurement from the case i can use to position this seal? Or know a trick to get the seal seated to the correct depth? Any insight to this would be appreciated! at $50+ a seal this has been an expensive learning process!