JaberJaw

I would rather take it off in one piece so thank you. I located the bolts on the inside of the fender wheel well and there's four bolts on each side when you lift the hood. I know I have to take my bumper off and I will take my rad out of course to get the engine out but also to see the location of the bolts. My first silly question of the day would be.. do I need to remove the side panels or does that come off as one piece as well? I can get the front of the side panels loose but it seems like there's screws all the way down in behind the door jamb that I can't get to. And my second silly question is.. once I get the radiator out am I able to remove just the centerpiece of the grill as shown in the picture? It looks like there's bolts connecting that together that would be easier to remove. Again any information and help on the easiest way to do it would be helpful because my manuals does not show boly location

Can anybody help with some information on where all of the bolts are located to remove my front end of my 39 Plymouth to take the engine out? The manual is very vague on where the bolt locations are and I am curious if it definitely has to be removed to yank out the engine. Any tips, information or help would be greatly appreciated ✌️??

I'm getting prepared to take my 39 Plymouth P8 201 engine in for a rebuild and was curious if it's possible to remove the engine without taking the entire front clip off in one piece? I've been doing some research and I will be removing the gearbox and the bell housing and it looks like it may come forward and up only being a 23-in block but just curious if there's any hurdles that I may expect. Is it necessary to take the whole front end off to remove the engine alone? ✌️??

I'm getting prepared to take my 39 Plymouth P8 201 engine in for a rebuild and was curious if it's possible to remove the engine without taking the entire front clip off in one piece? I've been doing some research and I will be removing the gearbox and the bell housing and it looks like it may come forward and up only being a 23-in block but just curious if there's any hurdles that I may expect. Is it necessary to take the whole front end off to remove the engine alone? ✌️??

Most definitely and thank you for your kindness. I hope to meet you as well along with other like-minded enthusiast

I live in Welland about 5 minutes from Niagara Falls. I would love to have a 218 or even an extra engine but my 201 is going to have to get Pistons rings etc so I'm working on that now. How much are you asking for the 218? And I already contacted about the event list and I'm going to be definitely going all days available and it's so close I'm able to come home to eat and sleep LOL

I looked and I can't find your last post Greg

That's fantastic and thank you so kindly. Grimsby's only about 20 minutes away so I will definitely be attending for the whole weekend. That will definitely be the place to go to get leads information or parts ✌️??

Chatham's only about 3 hours away (in Canada we measured distance by hours LOL) it would definitely be worse to visit just to talk to people who are familiar face-to-face. My nickname is JabberJaw so I'm not afraid to ask questions until I get the answers without confusion. Thank you kindly that's a great lead and from what I gathered Dodge and Chrysler were the only ones that had the 23-inch Block in the 201 and the 218 but from what I gather the 230 maybe a 25 in Block? But of course the crank journals would be different so I have to stick to my 201 block and if they decide to bore it out I'll get his opinion on the crankshaft but thank you again for the lead on the show ✌️??

It's a 23-in block and it's not Canadian made it came from Virginia. I'm hoping a stated previous from one of the members that it may just need rings seals and bearings but of course I won't know until the engine builder and has a good look at it. I have to pull the engine which will be a job because of my situation with only working in the driveway and our Canadian Winters come quick. He would probably have it all winter long because he's backed up but I don't mind because of his reputation and the quote that he gave me is very reasonable. If he decides that it has to be borwd out then I'm looking at new Pistons etc which opens a larger can of worms. I'm hoping for good luck with the engine rebuilder but I'm just getting prepared for the worst. I could cherry pick the parts individually but it would be hard and I don't want to mess up to configuration by ordering the wrong dimensions on anything. That rebuilt kit from Kanter has everything I need for a fairly good price but again as stated before by another member that it is products from China. I'm looking at eBay but most of them are for the 218/23-in block

I apologize the answer to your question is no I haven't torn it down yet I have to yank it and then bring it to the builder he would realize what's wrong and give me a parts list and then I would supply the parts and he would finish the rebuild. I actually got a really good price through a hot rod friend with Precision here in Niagara Ontario

I just realized that it had to be rebuilt yesterday to do in the head gasket complete properly and buttoned it up we have 55 compression on number one and it did not jump up after I put some oil in it and 80 lb on the rest so my assumption would be that number one guides or seats would be bad so hopefully it would just be the rings, seats and guides but if the kit comes with extra I wouldn't mind going up to a 218 if possible without many problems. With it being have a 201 23-in block everything I'm finding is for the 25 inch

Lol. It actually has a trailer hitch and Towed a 14-ft trailer in the past. Of course I'll have to talk to my engine rebuilder and see what he wants to do after inspection Just curious about complete rebuild kits from reputable companies✌️??

I apologize for my confusion and I appreciate the communication so with my 201 block would I be able to bore it out to the 218 and keep my crankshaft without going that deep into it or should I just try to find a rebuild kit for the 201? Clegg's seems to have a few options for the 218s but nothing for the 201. I may have to buy it everything individually if I want to keep the 201. Can I bore get out to a 218 while keeping my crankshaft?

This is the kit that I found from Clegg and my engine rebuilder was talking about possibly boring it out and if he did would it now become a 218 with this kit? I figured I might as well go for a complete rebuild but I'm not sure what's available for the 23-inch block? I'm still learning my 39 but I would like to get the best bang for my buck and it's hard to find another block to start over with here in Canada where I am because shipping is a bitch from anywhere https://www.cleggengine.com/engine-rebuild-kits/chrysler-l-6-217-8-218-cid-master-engine-rebuild-kit-1937-1954.html

Extend you what it was just proven to me after an email that Kanter lacks in the customer service department. I have the 201 minute right now but it needs to be rebuilt and I would like to keep it original but if I can pump it up to a 218 with my 201 block I didn't know if that was possible

Silly question of the day. If I'm doing a rebuild am I able to use the 218 engine rebuild kit for the 201 and after being rebuilt it would be a 218? Just getting familiar with these 23-in blocks

Good Day Everybody. Can anybody provide a good company to buy an engine rebuild kit for a 1939 Plymouth P8 Deluxe with the 201? I'm finding everything for the 218 and the 230 but the kit for the 201 seems hard to locate. I may need the kit that's just rings and seals or I may need the exclusive kit that includes pistons and everything once I get it back from the engine rebuilder to find out what I need but a reliable company or website for the kit would be very helpful if anybody is aware of where I should look. I found one at Kanter Auto but just trying to compare prices. The one attached below is the exclusive kit and I may only need the intermediate one. Any information would be helpful ✌️?? https://www.kanter.com/cart.html#!year%3D1939||make%3DPLYMOUTH||model%3DP8 DELUXE

Extremely interesting article. Maybe senior is only going half senile.. he said it could be used to compress air and used to get TDC... I just wanted to dispel his myth that's why I posted here where the most knowledge is. I appreciate all the information ✌️??

I do have a service manual. I actually have two of them. I now notice where it is but I didn't look into it at the time or after because I was in a hurry to get the head off and into the machine shop and not setting up the timing. Cosgrove's Racing is where I took it and he's more familiar with engines from the 60s and on but I'm glad that Senior knew what it was. I'm learning everyday and that's the joy of having a pre-war classic ✌️??

Senior mentioned it could have been used as an air compressor and that's when I rolled my eyes because of the fuel mixed with the air and it would be running on 5 which is totally illogical. But when he mentioned about TDC that's when it made sense to me. Not that I would ever use it for air but it's nice to know the ins and outs of my engine. I appreciate the clarification ✌️??

I just received my head back from Cosgrove's Racing and discovered an interesting feature on my 1939 P8 Deluxe 4-Door with the 201. After consulting with Ken Senior, we were surprised to find what looks like a wormhole from the back number 6 cylinder and it leads to a plug where apparently after jogging Seniors Memory they used it as an Air Compressor and to possibly find TDC on number 6 because it's straight down. When an engine builder says "I've never seen that before" and we both get educated from an Older Gentleman that has been Rebuilding Engines for Decades you throw that in the back of your Mechanical Memory Bank. Extremely interesting and would love more input if anybody has more information about it ✌️??

It has the linkage that goes from the starter pedal up to linkage that I painted on the driver side and then crosses over the top of the cylinder head to the carburetor. I'm going to put a new throttle return spring and possibly a spring to help with the guidance across the head. At the moment I'm waiting for the cylinder head to get milled because it had a bit of a warp and there was five blown head gaskets in the parts bin so I assume they've had this problem before but I am only the third owner. The pictures that I can supply won't really show everything properly because the head is removed and part of the linkage is taken apart across the engine. I assume once I get my head back and sequence and torque it properly it will come to me to where it goes because the oil filter mounts to the Head and I'm sure I will be able to locate it but I was hoping somebody had the same setup in a picture. It would be for the accelerator pump rod to the linkage that mounts the top of the head. I'm doing a bit of a preservation while the head is off and install the new water pump.

I am trying to find the location for the throttle return spring on a 1939 Plymouth P8 Deluxe 201. The linkage was removed but not taken apart to be cleaned and painted while doing the head gasket and some preservation however the bracket was removed without any pictures to be painted and now cannot recall it's original position. Any pictures or information would be very helpful. I usually bag and tag but this is the one part that got away from me LOL