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EagleChief

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  • Location
    Tulsa, OK
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe
    1971 Chevrolet C10
    1973 Ford F100 Ranger
    2005 Kawasaki Nomad 1600

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  • Location
    Tulsa, OK
  • Interests
    Family, Sports, Cars

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  1. Thanks guys! I need to get the car to my house so I have all my tools and testers and have time to look it over. The taillights work, and are a lot brighter than the other bulbs. Went to test the brakes and nothing. Put one of the old bulbs back in, nothing for brakes, then both older bulbs and still nothing. So, I know it wasn't the bulbs. Once I get that situated, where do I look for the flasher relay?
  2. Coming back to this, I bought the lights and the flasher that were linked here. My dumb newb question follows: Where in the world do I hook up the flasher relay? I did a quick search, but not very thorough, thinking it would be easy to spot. Granted, it was 98 deg with no wind and high humidity, and my patience didn't allow for me to look for very long. I did get the bulbs replaced, but in doing so, learned that my brake lights don't work, and my trunk light does not work, either. Brake lights didn't work with old bulbs, or new bulbs... so I'm assuming that's within the brake switch somewhere?
  3. Related question regarding LED's... I'm trying to figure out ways to add some lighting to the rear of the car. Thinking about adding a light strip in the rear window, or the base of the bumper, the trunk lid - just something to add another set of lights to the rear. I even thought about using the gap between the fender and body to place a strip of lights there (vertically) instead of the chrome trim that fills that gap. What have any of you done to add lights? And also, if you have tried something like that, do these regular light strips (flexible LED strips) work on our systems, or do I still need to find some that are 6volt?
  4. Quick question on the 1158's... does that come as a 2-pack, or is that a single bulb? I don't see any info on that on their page. EDIT** Nevermind, I found the info I was looking for. I ordered a set to try out, including the flasher.
  5. I see that now. I could've sworn I saw a 6 volt version on Oldmoparparts. But, it was quite a bit more expensive. That's why I looked elsewhere. There are a few different versions on Speedway motors it looks like.
  6. I do have the dual filament turn signals on my car. I was just curious if/what bulbs were being used when converting to LED, especially with the 6 volt system. If you only change out the rear signals, would we still need to change the flasher? It would still be providing power to the regular bulbs up front.
  7. I've been debating this same subject. My wife has informed me that, while following, it is hard to see the lights on the back of the car - especially during the daytime hours. My car is stock/original and I've tried to think of ways to add more lights/signals without hurting the car. I have seen some replacement housings that are set up with LED's built in: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Technostalgia-6060-1946-48-Plymouth-Sedan-Brake-Light,9874.html And, also some "3rd brake light" options that would go in the rear window: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/United-Pacific-33013-LED-Regular-3rd-Brake-Light-Clear-Chrome,475291.html I'd like to do the same to the turn signals, but most of the replacements I've found are for 12-volt systems. I might have to give those bulbs a try for the tail light/turn signals.
  8. I'm going to ask a loaded question, and I should've asked the gentleman I purchased the car from. What oil do you all use on these cars? Original flathead 6 in the car. The oil is still clear and clean, but I'd like to have some on reserve and for the next oil change. ** Nevermind...
  9. You are correct, the "LATCH" system is bolted to the floor/frame of the vehicles between the seats' lower and upper cushions. That product I linked to, is an "add-on" version. I don't think they are near as safe and sturdy to use as the factory system, as they do not bolt to the floor. In our old vehicles, it would be even worse, I'd imagine, seeing as how the seat cushions are not bolted in to the car/truck.
  10. Here is the link of the item I was thinking of for the "add in" latch brackets. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Restraint-Mounting-Connector-Interface/dp/B0937G9LH2/ref=asc_df_B0937G9LH2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507701441215&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14872409099276633270&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026521&hvtargid=pla-1291111392693&psc=1 I went against using these for a couple of reasons. 1) they do not mount to the floor of the vehicle, and 2) I think, to use them correctly, they need to have the top tether of the child's seat attached, as well as the lower latches. In our old cars, that could be an issue trying to remove the rear seat, attach, and re-install. I believe the retrobelt store is where I purchased my seatbelts from, as well.
  11. That is correct. I just used the lap belts. I know there is a bracket that can be installed for the latches, but I just went with the lap belts.
  12. I can't remember off the top of my head where I purchased them from (online), so I'll have to dig in my files for the receipt. But, they came with all of the hardware needed for mounting them. I ordered 3 seatbelts for the rear. I sat our kids carseats in the car in order to get the width and locations where I needed to put the seatbelts. I put some tape on the upper seat cushion to mark the width. Then, pulled the lower seat out, which is fairly easy to do. After that, using the tape that I applied on the upper cushion, I could mark the width on the floor to drill holes for the mounting. I "guesstimated" for the exact locations. Tried to figure out a spot that would be easy to access under the car, as well as inside. This took a few times of looking inside, then crawling underneath to try and figure out what I was looking at. Once I had my spots picked out. I marked them with a Sharpie marker, then drilled a small hole from inside the car, through the floor. Once those were drilled, I crawled underneath and drilled the larger holes (I used a larger drill for these and I had more clearance under the car, than inside). After that, I used the seatbelt mounting instructions and hardware. They came with 1/2" or 5/8" grade 8 hardware (bolts, washers, nuts) and some extra large washers - probably 4" diameter - to use for mounting. So, inside the car was the seatbelt mount, washer, bolt. Under the car was large washer against the floor, then the other washers and nut. I'm pretty sure there were regular washers and lock washers for the mounting. It was last October when I installed them, so I don't exactly remember what all the hardware was. I started with the outer belts first, then the center belts. In order to limit the amount of holes I drilled, the center belts share the same mounting position.
  13. Small world, isn't it?! I know the area well. I find it sad that all of the ranch and farm land is disappearing. If you haven't been back, you wouldn't recognize Owasso now. It's actually starting to get too big, I think. That whole area, I've always known it as German Corner, has been annexed and is suited for commercial deveopment over then next 5-8 years. City of Owasso keeps cramming in apartments/housing/stores anywhere they can find a blade of grass.
  14. I tried adding a front view pic, but apparently the file size is too large.
  15. Thanks! I'll have to investigate it more. I'll try and post another picture from my phone (more direct from the front), but what this picture doesn't show very well - both horn wires are combined before the spade connector. Are they supposed to be joined that way? I have some wire and connectors, although not period correct. I guess I could replace those two wires to the horns and that would take care of any frayed wire issue.
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