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uncleaud's post in Heater Temp. was marked as the answer
Problem Solved!! The older I get the more problems I solve in the middle of the night when I should be sleeping. Usually they aren't particularly difficult, but the results of stupid mistakes that I finally remember!
I originally had the typical rabbit ear water valve valve and as usual it was seized and not working. I removed it from the head and replaced it with fittings to replace valve. I used an inline valve and was so proud how neat and clean it looked and worked. Cable worked free and smooth better than before.
I'm sure you can all see it coming,?when I pulled the cable out to increase the heat I was actually shutting it off instead of on.
Sorry for taking everybody's time. I'll mark this solved!!
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uncleaud's post in Fluid drive shifting question was marked as the answer
Yep...that was the problem. The bottom of the fuse socket was corroded, once I found it and took the emory cloth to all of it everything worked as it should. Wish I could of found it before I took it all apart?...mark it up as a learning experience.
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uncleaud's post in Heater switch and glove box light question was marked as the answer
Got it fixed. Like I say had power going in and none coming out. Both resistors showed continuity through them. With nothing to lose pried it apart. The inside of it looked clean but the continuity was lost between the contacts. I took emory cloth to them, polished them up and all was good again. Pretty basic stuff. Thanks
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uncleaud's post in Another air vent question was marked as the answer
well I finally have free working vents. For those of you who are following along this was what I finally had to do. First of all I used penetrating oil and let it set. Didn't work. Next used butane mini torch and was able to get a wiggle but still wouldn't move. Played with it another day and decided to take a die grinder to it and take the end off the pivot and replace it with quarter inch bolt after I got it all out. Good idea except asI took the end off the pivot I found that it is a brass rivet that doesn't come out even with a punch and hammer. However with end ground off the rivet it did free up and pivot like it should. Got some white grease work into it and it works like new. Probably not done according to Hoyle but it is how I skinned the cat. Have all the air ducts cleaned and painted, just have to craw back under there and put it back together. Hope my back can take it. Thanks for the input.
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uncleaud's post in another quick brake question was marked as the answer
I've read and understand the major adjustment....I had to slightly notch the passenger side, less than a 16th and was then able to put it all together and finish the adjustment procedure. The drivers side all fit together without any modification. All I had to measure the drums with was my tape measure and it appeared that the passenger side drum was a tight 11 inches, by tight I mean only the thickness of the line, and the drivers side was a even 11 inches. Anyway, all is well that ends well. Thanks for the comments and patience.
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uncleaud's post in quick how to question. was marked as the answer
yep...that worked. Sometime a big hammer and mig welder are your most important tools.?