NBarnette

Thanks, MC and 49D! I'm heading out there now to wrassle it, and will report back in a bit. what a relief... JB

Okay, here's where I'm stumped. I need to hook up a horn button wire. I'm assuming the way to do that is to remove the button and attach it somewhere inside, then run it down and out of the steering column, to the horn. I've posted 2 pics down below to help anyone help me. Thanks! NBarnette

Thanks, Don. I've got the instructions down already for the regulator polarization. I was just wondering about the horn wire from the steering wheel. I've got the original horn wired to the ammeter, but there just isn't a wire from the horn button. At some point, it was cut and/or pulled out. Does that make sense? I'll try to put a pic up here in a few minutes... NB

Thanks for the Nashville connection...any and all are appreciated. We're fortunate enough to live in farm country where getting old 6 volt and tractor parts doesn't seem to be hard...yet. I've pretty much finished re-wiring the B3. The only things I haven't done yet are: -connect the battery cables to the terminals -polarize the new regulator -hook up the horn, which leads me to this question: The wire for the horn button (on steering wheel) doesn't exist. Can I pop off the horn button and figure it out? If so, how do I pop it off the steering wheel? I pried on it for a minute but decided to come in and ask somebody who might actually know.... My manual tells me nothing. Any and all help is appreciated! Thanks! NB P.S. Here a pic of the rear bumper someone was asking about. I have no idea if it's original or not, but it's got a funky homemade-looking trailer hitch on it. Also-I'm going to try to keep it as close to original as possible. I found a place that'll order and install the old style tall tires like what is currently on it, with biggy nobbies in the back!

Thanks everyone for the welcoming. TodFitch- Very helpful, thanks for the explanation. Sorry about posting the thread in the wrong spot. After I had posted it, I realized it was in the wrong place, but couldn't figure out how to move it. Gregg- Thanks for the info. Carls49- Lucky?!?! Now he has to buy jewels and tools! DonCoatney- We're neighbors... I'm a Tennessean as well. Thanks again, fellas. I've attached a pic of the truck from the day I brought it home and drove it around the yard. -NB

Hello everybody. As the title says....I am a new member. My husband bought me a red '52 B3B for my birthday this Summer, (much to his chagrin, as he was expecting me to go for a '64 Ford F100). The B3 was a real barn find, in fact, I am still knocking dirt-dobber nests out of every nook and cranny. But, the tires hold air for a month and it runs! I am currently wiring it back to spec. It looked like spaghetti under the hood, and nothing matched the book. I mean, we're talkin' some hillbilly wiring schemes: 14 gauge wire spliced onto frayed battery cable wires, etc... Everything under the dash had been cut and duplicated and cut again. Also, someone tried to convert it to 12 volts just short of frying the starter. So, I have a query: I need enlightenment on the world of "positive-ground." I fully trust that following the original wiring diagram will bring my B3 back to life in 6 volts. However, I'm not sure I understand the concept of grounding the positive terminal of the battery. I have been a 12-volt classic car lady for 20 years, and I always like to know the "why" of things. Would someone care to fill me in? Thanks, NBarnette