jrocco49

I will check them out, thanks.

I received the wheel cylinders from Rock auto, and they have the washer included with the cylinders. But now a new snag. The bolt patterns do not line up. My old cylinders are 1-3/4 the once's from Rock auto are 2 in. I could drill the backing plate, but a local NAPA is going to try and find a pair of wheel cylinders and have me come in and compare them side by side.

I found a shop locally that did the fronts for $120. Next week I will install them when I get the wheel cylinders from Rock auto. But now I can't find the copper washer that goes between the brake line and the wheel cylinder! It must have fallen out on the floor and got sweep up. Now I have to find one. I do have the other side washer to make a match with.

Hey thanks for the replies. I did a google search and found a local shop that advertised shoe relining. I have no idea what the cost is but when I find out I will post it if anyone is interested.

Re doing the brakes on my 1949 B1B. Is it better to try to get them re lined, or to try to buy new shoes? Napa said they did not have the shoes and that I may have to get them re lined. Thanks

Thanks to all for your help. If the reproductions are OK then I will start searching for a new MC. Jim

Here are a few quick pictures. If I hadn't messed up the top trying to remove the broken bolts I might have attempted to put a rebuild kit in, but then again maybe not! Hoping to get a nice replacement that fits without any modifications.

Does anyone have an opinion about a good replacement for my old master cylinder? It's the Wagner FE 543. I thought about rebuilding it but the top bolts have broken off and I have not been able to get them out. So I thought I would just replace it with something new. I see them from around $90 to over $200 dollars! That's quite a jump in price. Just wondering how the reproducing's are , and if they bolt right back in place. Not making a show truck, I just want to get it back on the road.

Never though about acetone! My brother has some welding wire so I will try that later this week. Speedometer cable is also a good idea. Carb cleaner didn't do the trick but maybe acetone will. Thanks all. Jim

The inside fuel line in the gas tank appears to be plugged. The truck sat for a long time and although I thought there was no fuel in the tank there must have been some left in there. I have cleaned the outside fuel lines and they are open. Next I dropped the tank and can see the inner fuel line, but I cannot blow air through it. It runs to the bottom of the tank and acts like a pickup tube. I have tried to push a small wire through it but it has two sharp bends that prevent the wire from going through. It's kind of frustrating right now, the tack look's really clean inside, just the lines are plugged. Wondering what liquid solution I could place in the fuel opening on the tank to see if that could get the line open. What came out of the fuel line along the frame rail was black and smelled like old gas, but really sticky and hard to clean off.

That little short hose between the thermostat and water pump. Does anyone know what size it is? Replaced the water pump and noticed that hose is soft. Like to replace it now since I have it apart.