Karl Childers

it could be all of the above, i have never pulled the bellhousing as i have no experience in putting or taking these part, i also do not have that tool you need to align things...and if i bought new items i would not know if i was buying the correct parts since the majority of them pieces i see are on ebay and noone wants to promise/guarantee that the parts will work for me....always say things in the listing like "might" fit other years/makes/etc this is rough, i love this car but hate it at the same time.

its a chatter after you accelerate in 3rd gear and the top end of 2nd if you are already in 3rd gear speeds while in second, like if you run out 2nd. like teeth not releasing or being loose, it chatters while giving it gas but gets alot worse after you let of the gas to coast. i dont know how to exlplain this without someone actually being in the car...i had the rearend checked, i had the u-joints checked, 2 trans' were tested and both did this.

this cable driven shifter is a nightmare from the word go...do you know anyone who has the shifter rod linkage? i would gladly make an attempt at swapping it...i cant get this correct at all. do you have any pics?

thanks for the help, the trans doesnt grind going into gear or anything, this is during acceleration, the driveshaft was slowly spinning while in neutral

I bought a "new" old trans from a member on here for my car, i bought an oem gearshift control cable, i put it all in and i got some good news and bad news... 1940 dodge d14... i have movement, it goes through the gears... now for the bad: i have no reverse gear...my reverse position on the column is now a forward gear...as well as 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear position...no reverse. and to top that...my 2nd gear position is actually 1st, and what would have been 3rd seems to be 2nd and 1st is 3rd....just from how it seemed and reverse is also a forward gear but dont know why. the cable actually pulls and pushed from the column on the lever but i dont know if its adjusted correctly or if i have it set up right and dont actually know what it really does. and to top all this...the trans is STILL GRINDING!!! i am positive it is coming from inside the bellhousing now...there are no doubts in my mind. i am tired of this car now...anyone have a stock auto trans for a 1940 dodge d14????? prefer ready to go and all the parts to swap it to the manual crank/etc...im buying!!! i dont care how slow or sluggish it is, its better than 10 mph

sure, i guess thats what im looking for since my motors book has almost every breakdown except for this in it

sorry, 1940 dodge D14 sedan, im talking about the cable that comes off the bottom of the column and runs to the lower lever on the trans, not the upper lever that uses the rod style linkage. i just need the exploded view diagram or a clean clear picture of how the assembly is supposed to look when correct and oem/stock. something is telling me that over time this car has had a few "homemade" repairs to the links assembly... i hope this helps, i can get pics but they probably wouldnt help much in this case.

I have the motor manual for the car but they dont get into detail in the book. standard 3-speed on the column trans. I just ordered/received & installed the NOS cable, but i do not know if the car had all the nuts/bolts/brackets that should be there in order for this to function correctly. The threaded end only had one nut with a crown on the end of it and it was double nutted to lock it in place. Not nut on the other end though to push it back cause i think the spring on the column end forces it back but the lever that it is moving isnt spring loaded or anything so i am not fully understanding how it is supposed to actually function. The new cable didnt have the spot welded bracket with the eyelet to bolt to the bellhousing to keep the cable straight at the lever...i dont understand if it is meant to not be there on the NOS parts or what....i see no signs of there ever being a bracket on it either, its a brand new unmolested part. Can anyone help me out on this? i am so close to putting this car back on the ground.

the part number you listed refers back to a 6/8 cylinder W/overdrive...i dont have overdrive? i came to the conclusion that the cable cant stretch out since it is solid core cable inside the steel spiral sleeve i pulled it to find out whats going on and the cable binds up so bad that it just bows and doesnt push the cable out...if you set the cable in the correct location/adjustment and push the shifter away, it pulls the cable and lever on the trans just fine, when pulling the shifter it doesnt absolutely nothing. i also swapped the trans out for another i purchased off here to kill 2 birds with one stone on what it could be...im guessing my cable is just badly aged but it looks like brand new...even out of the car i cant push or pull the cable without extreme force.

See, this doesnt seem to be a standard sleeved cable from how it seems, there are separated sections that run through that bracket (circled) but it is a very tough cable and it has an adjustable end on it. Not to mention it is probably like 5 feet long if i had to guess.

I am on the hunt for a shifter cable, the cable that goes from the shifter to the arm on the side of the trans for a 1940 Dodge D14 Sedan, standard 3-speed on the column trans/non fluid drive trans. I already talked to Andy Bernbaum and he says NO WAY on having it or being able to get it...I think this may be the issue with my trans issue due to the cable binding up and not properly engaging the linkage. The sleeve and cable housing are bowing out and the "custom" double nut spacer/washers probably dont help it much. HELP!!!!!!! Thanks in adavance.

Ok, so i have a 1940 Dodge D14 Sedan and i bought it without a hood ornament but i know there is supposed to be one on there, the notches are there but i have searched ebay in hopes of finding the "correct" one but i have seen a few different ones advertised as (1940) specific and dont know which to trust in which is correct. Thanks in advance

ok guys, to those of you keeping track of this, i have an idea? can i pull the driveshaft out without the fluid leaking out of the tail and run it through the gears in order to single out the driveshaft/u-joints/rear axle? does the flange bolt through the output spline and then the driveshaft bolts to it with the 4 bolts? i figured if i pull it and run it like that if it still grinds that leaves me one answer (trans/internals) let me know, i thought this might work since it does this in neutral as well, so i am guessing there doesnt need to be a load on it in order to get it to do it if it is going to. thanks

ok guys. update...rear diff fluid and trans fluid were full. tossed it up on jackstands and ran it with a few people sround to listen to it...the majority of them were saying it sounds like it is coming from either the driveshaft area or rearend?? i dont think it is the rearend since it is only at higher rpms...however...the driveshaft doesnt had u-joints on it, it is a flange with 4 bolts on both ends, but there is a rubber seal much like a cv axle with the 2 steel clips on both ends but i have no idea what condition they are in under that, is this something that can be repaired/replaced if it is the issue? can a driveshaft place do it for me if i brought it to them? what is under the rubber boots? i think there is still some trans issue though cause along with the gringding after it quieted down, you can head what sounds like 2 thin metal discs spinning opposite way and a higher pitched spinning sound of them possibly rubbing together? any ideas? this sound definitely seems to be coming from inside the bellhousing area

but if my motor is from a '50 will it still bolt up and function the same?